djh3

Hmm seems to be you got taken. I just checked a couple sites and the rate is 1.25 can to 1 usd.

SO hows the lights work? Have you had a chance to try them out? I finally got off the stick and cash to buy some additional "driving" lights. Small little frog eye looking jobs off e-bay. They are supposed to have a low beam, high beam and some sort of flashing/avoidance setting. Dont know if this is something I want to make work or not. I use to have the headlight set up with a modulator which is legal in all 50 states. But really leery of making these light flash in daytime as I think the lawman will not like it. I did see a HD Ultra last week that ha the modulator connected to both passing lights. I think you would get in trouble for that if they want to push the issue. I think I am going to mount these on the crash bars by my highway pegs. If that don't pan out I may put them on the forks about fender mount height.

I was wondering why all of a sudden I was getting 4-5 e-mails a day someone was quoting me. I'm not that smart of a fellow.. I'll let it ride here for a couple days and see if it drops off.

I did my 900 Vulcan and needed one shim. (they are different size than the ones we need) But I called a local indipendant shope and he had what I needed. Cost me like 3-4 bucks. Sometimes you can trade them. These shims are used on a lot of bikes from Honda to Suzuki, Yamaha. Mostly older designed motors I think.

Nitro Funny cars same thing. same chasissis, diffrent bodies. All Hemi powered. They made pretty big stink about John Force moving over to Chevy. LOL Same cars he had last year, different bodies.

I broke a little bugger bone in my wrist called a navicular. That was something like 30+ yrs ago. I still have limited grip and mobility. Cold damp weather with it sucks too. Good luck and work at it as hard as you can stand. It will only help on the other end of theropy. I guess I missed the orginal thread. So refresh what happened. Were you the one that slipped on the ice and up ended?

Winner winner $$

That would be probably the same deal I linked here. The 765 is an older unit. They are getting harder to find. The reason I wanted one because I can build my own routes on my computer and import them on to it. So I just looked around e-bay. It looks like you can still get some decent ones for around $45 and up. I would buy from a place that is an authorized seller and reconditioner and buy the insurance, its pretty cheap. There are some older units like a street pilot for around $20. They have more features, but the screen is a lot smaller. Then on top of not only buying the unit, you will be in another $40-50 for a bracket/holder for it. And if you ever change units you have to buy another one as they are made for each unit. Which got me to thinking. Do you need a GPS for making routes? Or are simply using to go from A to B. In which case you can use a smart phone, and you can load music on your phone or use Pandora. So while I was thinking of that it lead me to think of the mount. I bought a new mount for my cell from RAM mounts. Its sort of a spring loaded X deal. But it will fit lots of things and would work on all most any GPS or smarty phone. So I would look more in this direction instead of the "custom" fit mount. This is the one I used.

OUCH

Hmmm Makes more sense then the Ground Hog thing. Probably more accurate too.

10-4 on the 765 having FM transmitter. I forgot about that. On my 900 Vulcan at first thats how I would listen to the GPS. You tune radio to somewhere between like 80 and 95 on FM that is not being used in your area. then set the GPs to Xmit on that band. what I ran into traveling was you would occasionally run across stations on those bands going down the highway and you would have to retune the GPS and your bike radio. Donvitto in answer to your question, could you just run a splitter and that adapter. Yes You can set the GPS up so it tells you more info or less as far as how often depending on if you get tied of listening to it tell you to "continue". I have a Sgt something or other voice on mine. He calls you all kinds of names and its kind of funny, for about an hour. So I'm back to the British gal voice. That adapter unit if I read it right is like $60 bucks? Thats a bit steep aint it? I am not familiar with the 1st gens so much. Is there no Aux input on them? does your cassette deck still work? If so just use one of these cassette input adapters You could use a Y cable splitter and away you go for under $4.

They all sound like they got a dead hole miss.

Yup I think 7-stay is the flat metal strip. From Bike bandit not available out of stock. Plus its like $130 bucks. #33 is the nut plate, but I do not know how it is attached. Have you tried running a tap thru and cleaning the threads up? Maybe, just maybe you can get lucky. I always start mine by hand before tightening them. And I start them all before tightening any of them. 4XY-28357-00-00 is part # for stay. Me I would see if I could clean the threads up, second shot would be to see about putting a nut plate in it or time zert or rivnut.

I figured battery after reading a bit. You can charge a battery up and it will read 12v, lights work and fuel pump etc. But if it has a bad plate in it (which is typicaly what happens with vibration) it shorts it out and wont carry the heavy load of starting. Glad you got it fix3d.

Just fire up pandora, and put in the search something like 50's and see what pops up and try it our. I can tell you I have a few stations saved like Stevie Ray Vaughn. I have listened to it for like 10 hours and not heard a repeat.

Yea I read a story about that a few weeks back. The thing I remember is it didnt say they were running in their own class like the HD. They were going to run in prostock.

A long ball allen is my weapon of choice. I put a piece of tape where it can contact the paint. If you have a harbor freight near by they should have one. Mine is a snap on but I was in a shop when I needed it.

Seems we have way way to much of that "hit the wrong pedal" stuff down here. I just have a real hard time with that. If they cant keep the pedals sraight maybe they shouldnt drive anymore. A lady down here "accidently" hit the wrong pedal and when the car lunged she floored it. Then made the local chamber of commerce a drive thru like 5 min before a big meeting. Glad your OK sucks your ride got clobered.

Which bolts? The couple of end ones are sort of in nut plates you could probably fix. The center ones I'm not so sure.

Need to try some contact cleaner vs the WD 40. The WD will leave a film and not allow contacts to work eventually. I have a can of CRC electrical contact cleaner. Also up under the fairing at the connectors for the cables that control may need a shot. Then add some dielectric grease on the pins when you put it back together. If all that fails its probably the little black controller on the handle bars. You should be able to pick one up used.

Think about using the tire balance beads in your new tires. They work well.

Oh the apart thing is easy......... Getting it back together and functioning, now thats a different can of worms. I did buy some generic knock off ones for substantially less. And they seem to work fine. I bought 2, one for a second on the bike and one to replace the dual trumpet one the blown front tire on the truck took out. Got both installed on bike and the truck fixed. A couple weeks later the dual trumpet on the wifes car sounded like Kermit D frog. I thinks the compressor died, so swapped on from the bike over to it.

I have on occasion thought about a shot of wd 40 or something. But dont want them to get gummy either. Its sort of like they have to get spinning. They look all press fit together, so not sure you could get it separated and back together again.

SilverT heck I didnt even think of recording the music from my "free" music channels on the cable. I am sure you would have to convert to MP3 formatt

Yup I have noticed a simular issue. Seem to get "warmed up". Also if my bike has sit for a few days and horn not used it sometimes needs to be woke up.