V7Goose

I have posted on this in the past, but thought I would update the info with a fresh post since I just revisited the settings on QuickSilver. Factory settings on the mixture screws seem to always be extra lean - somewhere around 2.5 - 3 turns out, if I remember correctly (I always check this and write it down for the carbs I work on, but then I give the notes to the owner and do not keep them myself for reference!). This lean setting is not too surprising with the current state of emission regulations, but I do find it strange that Yamaha's published spec for CO on this engine is MUCH richer than they come set from the factory. I have a tendancy to believe that a manufacturer should actually set up the machine to match their own published specs, but Yamahaha both sets their floats WAY higher than the spec and the mixture leaner than the spec. Although I do have an exhaust gas CO analyzer, I rarely use it because it is tedious and a PIA. I have found that I can get excellent results by simply tuning each carb for max RPM. I have also tried the Colortune, but I find that tool a sad joke. The published CO% for this engine is: #1 & #3 = 2.5-3.5% #2 & #4 = 3.5-4.5% For reference, here are the settings I have found on my RSV - Using the max RPM method, I still end up with settings that are slightly too lean, especially for the front cylinders. Typically this method leaves the screw about 3.5 turns out, and that is what I would recommend as a starting point for someone looking for that info. Using the CO analyzer, I get about 3% with the screws set somewhere between 4 and 5 turns out, and pushing the front cylinders all the way up to 4% CO requires a full SIX turns out! Six turns out seems like a huge amount, but I have used the analyzer on this bike twice (two years apart), and the settings I ended up with are the same today as they were back at the beginning of 2009, so I am getting consistent results. Although the bike has been running perfectly for the past two years at the midpoint CO settings, I think I'll probably reset the front two jugs for the minimum of 3.5%, just so I'll feel better about the screws not being so danged far out! But for the majority of carb setup and tuning for 2nd gens, I think I will continue just setting for max RPM + 1/4 turn on each carb. Even without a tach on every bike, I find it pretty simple to do it by ear. I used to actually leave the screws a tad more IN from max, but in light of the settings required to reach the published CO numbers, I've decided to set them 1/4 turn richer. If you feel the need to adjust your carbs for any reason, here is the process I think will produce good results for just about anyone. First, sync the carbs and make sure the idle RPM is set properly. If you do not have a tach, just realize the idle spec of 1,000 RPM is probably a little faster than the idle sound you prefer. Just leave the sync gauges connected while you do the mixture screws, since you will want to double check the sync setting when you get done. I'd start with each mixture screw about 3.5 out, then the first thing is to start turning it IN to verify you get a drop in RPM (which proves your idle jets and circuit in that carb are actually working) - no point in trying to tune a carb that already has problems with plugged idle jets, right? Now slowly turn the screw out to the point where the RPM no longer increase. Select the final setting by turning the screw back in to just where you first detect any drop in RPM, then back out 1/4 turn. Repeat that with each carb, then verify the sync is good, and you are done. If you have problems getting a good setting on any specific cylinder, I'd start looking for other carb issues there, such as plugged jets, bad o-rings on the mixture screw, diaphragm holes, etc. Goose

Oops, that is a different story all together! I have never seen that happen, but it sounds like the linkage was not installed correctly. I do not know if the 97 RSTD used the same linkage as the pst-'99 2nd gens, but on those it is supposed to fit in a hole in the bottom of the middle gear cover. If it is in there correctly, I can't think of any way it could come out. Goose

This is an extremely common problem with the 2nd gens - we recommend everyone locktite that bolt ASAP when they get one of these bikes. Two very easy emergency fixes - The bolts that hold on th eplastic apron around the ignition key are the same size - just take one out and put the shifter back in place. Option 2 is to take one of the "fake" bolts out of either side or front battery cover; they are also the same size. We say "fake" bolts because they do not hold anything on - just for looks. The only real bolt in the battery covers is the rear one on either side. By the way, that shifter needs to be greased periodically or it will wear out of round and flop a lot (there is a grease groove on the mount). But be careful to keep that bolt clean and dry or the locktite won't do anything. Goose

If you often ride when the temperatures keep your carb heaters on, then you will be causing long term damage to your battery (meaning it will hit the checkout lane sooner than it needed to). In addition, if you do not ride long enough each time you start the bike, you will be doing the same thing. Without a volt meter or good ammeter, "long enough" is hard to actually quantify, but the extra 40 watts means there is less available current to recharge the battery; therefore, it will take quite a bit more time to bring it back to full charge every time you ride. Most people grossly underestimate how long it takes for the battery to reach full charge, and that, coupled with how many short trips many riders make, is the primary reason so many bike batteries only last two or three years. In comparison, my stock battery went six years. In fact, it has not yet given any "noticeable" problems, other than having low voltage when the passing lights are on and it won't hold 12.9 volts for more than a day. Personally I do not recommend increasing the wattage on those lights. What I DO recommend, even if you don't make any changes, is to have a decent digital volt meter and keep an eye on it. While riding, your voltage should NEVER be below 12V - if it is, you either have a battery heading south or a problem with your charging system. In reality, your normal riding voltage should always be above 13.5 after the battery has reached full charge, and two hours after shutting off the bike the battery must still be at 12.9 or you have a problem. Goose

Not only would I not part with my RSV, but I would not own a Goldwing for any reason. They are ugly and very uncomfortable. Goose

Well sir, you are not that far from me - if you want to ride or drag that thing down here I'd be happy to help you sort it out. I cannot guaranty anything, but it SHOULD be easy to identify. I'm here and willing if you want the help, Goose

Excellent idea on the feeler gauges - I was trying to come up with something that most mechanics would have available, but those escaped me. Goose

The manual is wrong - if you try to follow it, you will have it all balled up so bad it won't hardly run. See our tech library for detailed instructions. But here is the short of it: There is no "base" carb on this engine. You first balance the two carbs on one side to each other, then you balance the two carbs on the other side to each other, finally you balance the left bank to the right bank. The screws to balance the two carbs front/back are philips head screws that you reach from the right side of the bike (you will need a very long #2 driver to reach the screw for the left two carbs from the right side). The screw to balance the left bank with the right bank is a brass hex bolt shape with a slot in it (common screwdriver) that you will find behind the choke knob on the left side. There is a lot of interplay between these screws, so do not be surprised of you have to go through the sequence a number of times before they all come together. Goose

Those are original factory drain holes to help prevent they mufflers from rotting out from condensation. Goose

The type of indicator on the tool makes absolutely NO difference in how accurate it is or how consistently it reproduces the same result. But both the quality of the tool and understanding the proper usage certainly do affect those things. All measuring instruments need a light touch, not only for proper accuracy, but also to prevent long term damage. The tighter you adjust any tool, the smaller the reading. For example, a high quality micrometer will have a little knob on the end that clicks as you turn it. When you take a measurement with the tool, you never turn the mandrel down to the point of contact with the large shaft. This final adjustment is made with the small knob and you only turn it long enough to click three times. This type of consistent repetition of the same light pressure is the only way you can get consistent readings. A tool of lower quality will naturally have a bit more play in the mechanism, which leads to a lower accuracy standard. But a uniform light touch from the operator is still just as important. Finally, a tool that is only accurate to 1,000 of an inch will LOOK more touchy to the pressure used than one that is accurate to 10,000 of an inch, even if the tool is made to the same quality but simply has a cheaper display mechanism. This is because you cannot see the reading change until it suddenly jumps from something like .111 to .110, which can happen anywhere between those two measurements, where a more accurate tool must properly display every singe change of 1/10,000. The point here is that even the finest tool is of no value to an uneducated person with a ham-fist. You need to understand how it works and practice with it on something of known size until you develop the proper feel for consistent results within the accuracy range for which the tool is rated. When you buy the tool, I'd suggest taking a valve shim with you to the store and carefully note it's exact measurement with a micrometer of high quality, the use that shim to compare the readings with other tools of lower price. And even if you do not have something of KNOWN exact size to practice on, you can still verify if the tool you bought has the capability of consistent readings. Using any valve shim, just repeat the same measurement many times being careful to use the same light touch. The shim is not going to be changing size, so if you cannot get the same reading each time with the tool, take it back and buy a better one. Goose

As long as your OIL is up to 200 degrees F (a "short" trip will not do it), then letting her run until the carbs are empty is a good idea - the fuel is going to evaporate anyway, so the less you leave in there to dry up, the better. Goose

Well, valve shims are not critical for measurement, and .001 accuracy is not hard to reach - just about any cheap tool will do that. For just your specific purpose, even cheap calipers will do fine. Check out Harbor Freight - they regularly have some digital calipers on sale for under $20. In fact, they recently had one for under $10 that was such a steal that I just had to buy it even though I do have a full set of VERY high quality micrometers and a high quality dial caliper! Goose

I do not have a definitive answer, but I'll tell you what I have used without problems (and I do have a few miles on my 2005). I am a fan of MCN, and I do remember that '97 article mentioned by okiestar. I cannot refute what they said in any way, but I will also say that we have had 10 years of technology development since then, and aluminum water pumps are VERY common in lots of vehicles these days. I have only changed the coolant in my RSV one time - about 2 years and 50,000 miles ago. I used AutoZone Extended Life Antifreeze & Coolant. This stuff says it is compatible with any other existing coolant and is safe for "ANY make of car or light duty truck on the road, foreign or domestic." Now I know that doesn't say motorcycles, but frankly I cannot imagine that a modern water cooled motorcycle engine's water pump is so unique that there is not at least one foreign or domestic car engine that would have the same properties. So I took the chance and trusted their claim. I have had zero problems, and my bike now has just about 100,000 miles on it. I kinda doubt the color of the coolant makes any difference at all. MY 2000 Jag had an aluminum pump and came with orange long-life coolant. I know that Yamahaha coolant is a delightful bright shade of green that is just so darn pretty it must be worth the price they ask. This AutoZone stuff comes in an orange jug, but the coolant is yellow. It is now the coolant I use in all my vehicles. Goose

For winterizing there is no need to use a lot of Seafoam - you are not trying to clean anything, just prevent the fuel from breaking down and forming varnish. Either Seafoam or Stabil is fine for this. Read the can, it has instruction on how much to use for stabilizing gas; four ounces is plenty for a six gallon tank. Do make sure to ride the bike for at least 30 minutes after you have treated the tank; not only do you want to make sure all the fuel in the carbs is replaced with treated fuel, but you need the engine oil to get completely up to temperature to burn off the moisture and acids. This is important even if you are going to change it (which you really should do before storage), since there is always some old oil in the bearings, galleries and various nooks and crannies. This is always going to be old and dirty oil unless you go for ANOTHER 30 minute ride after you change it, so you don't want it to be old oil that is also full of moisture and acids! Just remember, letting the bike run until you think it is warm, or even until the fan comes on, does NOT mean the oil is hot enough to flash off the moisture - that takes a LOT longer. If you have an oil pressure gauge you can see that it takes a VERY long time for the oil to get hot enough to thin out when it reaches full engine temperature (that is when it finally drops below 10 lbs at idle). Until it gets that hot, all that new moisture you just flooded the engine with from the combustion and internal condensation is mixing up with all the combustion byproducts and forming metal-eating acids. That is why starting the engine every so often while it is in storage is one of the WORST things you can do. Once you have properly prepared it to sit for a while, do not start it for any reason until you are prepared to ride it for more than 30 minutes. Have a nice winter's nap! Goose

I mount and balance my own tires (and have done a lot for friends too). I prefer the Avon Venoms over all others I have used.I have NEVER had a single issue balancing Venom tires. When I bought my first one and saw they did not have a mark for light point, I asked Avon about it. They claim that their tires are made with such a uniform process that it is not needed. I have never taken the time to fiddle around with a new Avon and position it in different locations to compare the balance point, but I also do not think I have ever had an Avon take more than two ounces of weight to balance. That is absolutely not true for Dunlop E3s. I have worn out several E3s on my RSV, and I am becoming less pleased with them - especially the front. Although the rear E3 lasts longer than a Venom, they do not handle quite as well and they make more noise. Despite the rear tire lasting longer, the front E3 does not last as long as a Venom, and the bike's handling degenerates as the front E3 wears in a way that never happens with a Venom. I think I'm going back to the Venoms despite the slightly higher cost. Goose

There is no carb rebuild kit available for this bike. I doubt that you will need any parts unless the carbs have been filled with a bad solvent that eats the o-rings. I have done the carbs on lots of these bikes (somewhere north of 30 of them) and never had to replace a single thing. The bowls use o-ring gaskets, and even on ten year old bikes they have always sealed fine. Just pull the jets to soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. Do not mix up the main jets, as the four carbs have three different sized jets in them! All pilot jets are the same. In your case I would also use the little spray can tube to blast some carb cleaner through all the carb passages, followed by compressed air. I only recommend Gumout brand carb cleaner as I have not had problems with it eating up the o-rings (cannot say the same things about some other brands). See the tech library for an article on properly setting the float levels and the throttle position sensor. There are significant errors in the shop manual on this, just like there are for syncing the carbs. If you can find 44K, use it instead of Seafoam. When the carbs are off I'd use a couple of coffee cans to run a high concentration of 44K or Seafoam through the fuel lines and pump, then let it soak for several hours (preferably over night). End with both ends of the fuel line tied up high so they stay full of the cleaning mixture. Then use the cans to pump more of the high concentrated fuel/cleaner through the lines before you hook the carbs back up. There is going to be a bunch of varnish and crud inside everything that had gas in it, and the fuel filter can only clean stuff above it. Anything that comes loose below the filter will end up straight in the carbs! Personally, I would not waste that concentrated cleaner I used on the lines and pump. I'd let it settle for 24 hours, then carefully decant it back into the tank without stirring up the sediment. Goose

You are absolutely correct - mine is a stock speedo. I think the needle actually indicates a bit above 120 before it stops moving, but my main point was that I know my bike continues to accelerate after the needle "pegs", so I know it is doing more than 110. I don't do it often, and I have never had a desire to try to find the max or take the time to look at the GPS to even see what speed I was actually doing. when I am running over 100, the danger is high, both physically and legally, so I really do not want to stay there for long! My bike feels rock solid there, but I imagine that is what a ticket would fell like too. Goose

10 seconds to stabilize (whatever you mean by stabilize) is WAY too long. You do need to blip the throttle after every single time you touch one of those screws - even if you do not turn it, just touching it with the screwdriver causes a slight change in the sync - but it should show a stable idle vacuum within one or two seconds. They should all rise and fall evenly, and there should be no hesitation in the vacuum dropping to about 11" as soon as you snap the throttle shut. I THINK (meaning I am not sure) that a cylinder taking a long time drop the vacuum indicates it may be running mostly off the main jet and not the pilot jet at idle. Unfortunately, knowing that for sure takes a more detailed analysis of CV carb operation than I have had to do. Actually, that is more fortunate than unfortunate for me! Goose My best suggestion right now to to pull the carbs. Frankly, any engine that has sat as much as your has over the past 7 years SHOULD have carburetor problems. I'd just jerk 'em out to properly clean the jets and set the floats.

Low vacuum can be caused by a variety of things, but the most likely on a low mileage engine is the idle adjustment set too high, which opens the slides and reduces the intake restriction. The spec is to measure at 1000 RPM, which is normal idle speed (a lot of people prefer the bike to idle lower, but they should not). If one or more idle jets are somehwat or fully plugged, or the idle mixture screws are set wrong, then the idle setting needs to be turned in to allow more fuel to come through the main jets to maintain the proper idle speed - this lowers the vacuum on all cylinders at the same RPM. Technically, plugged low speed circuits should not significantly affect the sync setting, but in my experience it does seem to have some affect. Other things that can affect the vacuum of a single cylinder, such as holes in the diaphragms, manifold leaks, incorrect valve clearances, gunked up rings, etc, WILL have a huge impact on the carb sync, since you will have to actually adjust the carbs OUT of sync in an effort to get the vacuum readings the same! A black plug indicates poor fuel burning, but that can be caused by lots of things, including fuel mixture, weak ignition, oil, or compression problems. The only thing I can say for sure about that is that the problem is significant. Certainly an 04 with less than 20,000 miles has been significantly abused by letting it sit a rot WAY too much over the years. I hope you can get it sorted out. Goose

That is a little low, but not real bad - the standard is 28 cm. You could have one pilot jet somewhat plugged, which would throw the carb sync off. Did you check the sync at high RPM as well as at idle? If so, did the sync stay the same? Does the vacuum change at the same speed on all carbs when you open the throttle or snap it shut? Goose

How many inches of Hg does you bike pull at idle on each carb? Goose Couple of thoughts - I do not recommend removing the resistors from the plug caps on an electronic ignition - could cause damage, and it should absolutely NOT provide any benifit unless there is something else wrong with the fuel mixture, ignition system, or compression. Missed any previous comment about black plug, but you should never ever see a black plug on this engine unless you have problems - normal tuning keeps them very close to white on the hot side of the normal plug range, and the unleaded gas has pretty much eliminated plug deposits.

Mine buries the speedo and keeps pulling strong past 120 in fifth. I have never actually tried to identify actual top speed, since I don't want to be watching the dash then anyway (and I don't really care). Goose

The connecting mechanism for the enrichment plungers is easily bent on these bikes. the plungers can also get gummed up and fail to move, but this is usually a problem when pulling the knob out, not pushing it in. Each carb has a brass plunger, and the choke mechanism fits over a gap near the end. These are fairly easy to see as long as you do not have the chrome covers installed over the carbs. When the choke knob is pushed all the way in, each actuating arm should be positioned in the same place in that notch, so that all of the plungers begin moving out at the exact same time when you first pull on the knob. If one of the plungers is not moving easily with the choke knob, it could be from either a bent mechanism or a gunked up plunger. That wide gap on the plunger makes it easy to test for plunger movement - just reach in there with a tiny screwdriver under the head of the plunger and see if it is easily moved; if it is, the problem is with the linkage. Goose

The forum name is slightly confusing - Yes, a Venture is a Royal Star, but that particular forum was meant to focus specifically on the early 2nd gen Royal Stars from the '90s and the RSTDs - basically all the Royal Stars that do not have a fairing. It is understandable how newbies can be confused. goose

There is no proper pressure per se - 0 is fine up front, and it is technically OK in the back. For proper handling, it is CRITICAL that both forks be exactly the same. You must have a gauge with a zero-loss chuck, as just touching the valve with any other type of gauge will change the pressure. the only option I know of is one of the Progressive brand pumps with gauge or the HD unit which is identical except for the label. If you do not have the right tool, just make sure both forks are empty and the bike will ride fine. While Yamahaha says 0 is fine in the rear shock, I personally cannot stand it below 25 lbs when solo (but I weigh 250). Someone has already mentioned the problem with the rear shocks failing on these bikes. It does not happen to all of them, but it is very common. When they go bad, they loose the oil but almost always still hold air just fine. Look at the bottom mount of the shock in front of the rear tire - ANY sign of oil or oily dirt on the bottom of the shock is absolute proof of a bad shock. They are expensive, so make sure you check this not only now, but just before your warranty runs out. Technically, there is a formal process to transfer the warranty, and it must be done within 30 days. The dealer is free to charge whatever they want for this "transfer". In reality, almost nobody does anything formal to get the transfer, and there is rarely any cost or paperwork. I suggest you don't even ask about it - just assume they will honor the warranty and test it. Just take the bike in and ask for something minor to be fixed under warranty. Once they do it and you have the paperwork, there is no further risk of getting surprised by a shyster dealer in the future. A bike that has been sitting for a couple of months with today's gas is probably going to have carb problems. Do not be surprised if they need to be pulled and cleaned - this is a fairly big job and expensive if done at the dealer. First thing I would suggest, even if it seems to run fine, is to pour one pint of Seafoam into a full tank of gas. This will go a long way to cleaning things up while you ride unless jets are completely clogged. Make sure you read old posts about the importance of keeping the RPMs up on this bike. If you try to accelerate at too low engine speeds for the gear, you will find the bike a total dog. Trust me, it is NOT! Do NOT even remotely imagine that you can believe the "recommended shift points" in they owner's manual - whoever wrote that either had never even seen or heard of a Royal Star, or he was totally wiped out on heroin when he was writing it. If you do not have the owner's manual, you can download it free from the Yamaha web site. Goose