bongobobny

Gee Mini, I was expecting a picture of a bucket... He could always use one of those to pick up Harley parts too!

Word of warning, I found out last year they DON'T take credit cards at the gate for admission...

...and I'm getting hungry!

Sieg Heil...

Happy New Year!!!

Thanks Scott, now there's coffee all over my monitor...

Hey Ruffy, are you planning a trip to Oklahoma City???

Well BT you know I'm good for ride captain as well...

I forgot to mention that on the 1983 Ventures the temperature gauge normally reads high, so chances are you weren't overheating like you thought. The gauge will read just below the red. It's scary at first but unless the fan is kicking on it's probably OK. Of course it's not a bad idea to flush the cooling system anyway and replace the thermostat...

Yes! One carb has a choke diaphragm that may be ruptured. Forgot which carb it is but may cause your problem...

The closest thing I know of is a Vmax model...

For the 1st Gen MK1, Barrett has a HD spring set available...

OK first metric bolts. Unless it is specialty, Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, etc have metric hardware. Second, on the alternator, unfortunately dynamic testing is best. It is rare that a 1st gen a stator is toast. The usual culprit is the connector below the seat corrodes. The R/R is more prone to failure, and there are a lot of aftermarket ones out there that are good replacements. The R/R connector can also corrode and cause problems. I would first have the battery checked with a good load tester, and if a replacement is in order then put a Deka AGM battery in. We will teach you how to fix the battery acid level sensor issue. It's an easy mod. Requires a 2000 ohm resistor being placed in series with the probe lead to the battery plus. Getting back to the stator, you can check it with an ohmmeter, the value should be within 10% with any combination of 2 out of three white wires. Also, each lead to ground should read infinity. The dynamic test is to check the AC voltage between any combination of 2 white wires and they should be the same, and should increase AC voltage with increased RPM. To test the R/R (Regulator/ Rectifier) check the voltage across the battery with a DC voltmeter. At idle you should see close to 13 volts, and more like 14 volts at higher RPM's. This test should be done after you confirm the stator is good, but if it fails before, then test the stator... Keep up the work, we are here for support! There may even be a knowledgeable member close to you that can help in person. Trust us, a good running 1st gen is a treasure to be enjoyed!!!

Yes, even doing the rebuild yourself runs over $200 in parts to do a complete job to make them like new...

No. The battery probe gets disconnected and you put a 2000 ohm resistor in series to 12 volts ignition line...

Uh huh!! Don't have to be dead on, just close enough!

Yup! 61,000 miles is hardly broken in! As stated, as long as the oil was regularly changed then there should be no real problems, but I would recommend flushing all the hydraulic fluid and the coolant, a new set if iridium plugs, and a good seafoam treatment. The only issue you possibly could encounter is replacing the clutch and when you do put in a heavy duty one. There is an excellent write up in the technical section of this site! The black cherry one may well have been the one Reiny Rooster bought, or it may be one from another former member in the Niagara Falls area as I think he quit riding a year ago...

The best way to describe it is AGM's have more balls to them (more oomph)...

Yup! Start with the fuel system. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump will click for around 5 seconds or so and then stop. This is normal, the fuel pump relay is special and has a circuit that times out when you key on, and will only restart when spark is detected. You say it does start but then dies which suggests you have spark. There are fuel bowl drains that you can remove to see just what kind of gas or crud you have in your carburetors. With full bowls I would expect the bike to run for several minutes before running dry. You may have stuck needle valves, or you may have a clogged fuel filter, or a clogged petcock on the fuel tank. Start with disconnecting the outlet side of the fuel pump, install a temporary hose into a jar or something, and turn the key on and off a few times to see what is coming out of the fuel pump. Next I would pull the line from the gas tank and see what is coming out of the tank. You might have a contaminated fuel tank. Get back to us and we can advise you where to go next...

Swing a leg over and try one out... Where in Fl are you? There might be a local member you can talk to.

Yup!! Above definition sure sounds like Black Friday...

Look at it this way Puc, nothing ventured (no pun intended), nothing gained! Hey, you took the three bucks and turned it into a nice fantasy!:banana:

HAPPY BIRTHDAY both of you!!!

Poor Sexi didn't get nuffin' for Xmas...

Hey Gary, what's the trailer light plug for???