dingy

Quit Clowning around. Bring the FJR to Galena. Gary

2nd post in thread linked below details how to check diodes in R/R. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70672 Not much else that can be checked in R/R. Gary

Yes. Gary

Attached are a few pictures of COP's (coil over plugs). Ones in Tweety are from a Honda 2007 CBR. I have another set for the Hybrid of same thing, shows 06-07 fitment. If you look for used ones, get a set that has wiring harness with them, makes install easier. Gary

Do you have a gasket installed under stator cover? Sealant alone will cause similar issue. Gary

When I was swapping final drive to an FJR, I turned out that there is a spacer in final drive that could be removed easily and was missing. This was causing wheel to tighten up to point of being locked at about 50flbs. Part # 5 on attached picture of RSV final drive.. Gary

I have one I could send him. Would probably take 2 weeks though, since I am in lower 48. Gary

FYI on the COP's installation. Use of COP's with a stock TCI MUST include resistors in the 12V+ side of coil or TCI will be damaged. Cop's have a lower primary resistance and this leads to higher current flow than stock coils. I do not know specifics on resistor, other than it is a large ceramic unit and it disipates a lot of heat. I can get contact info from a VMax member that supplies COP's kits. Ignitech TCI's have a dwell setting that eliminates need for resistors. I have had COP's for 2 years now, without resistors & an Ignitech TCI and bike runs fine. Gary

Tweety has VMAXD Gary

Here is what 2003 RSV tank has: Level sensor is a 5mm x 0.8 x 12mm long - 7mm wrench on hex head with large flat washer. Petcock is a 6mm x 1.0, don't have a screw to measure for length. Guess about 16mm long. Nothing in way on inside of tank that would interfere with longer screw. Gary

Some people use the front brake primarily to stop front bike. If you are one of that camp, you are stopping a 750 lbs bike plus your weight and equipment with one rotor. It's gonna wear down. You can swap the left & right pads on the bike. Actually fronts & rear are the same on stock bikes. Gary

Load of fan could be taxing electrical system. For a short test, pull connector from fan switch. Take bike for short ride and see if rising temp still effects bike. You won't kill motor if it gets a little warm. The radiator system is working, just don't ride 100 miles without a fan. When you are satisfied it is or isn't working different, pull over somewhere & plug fan back in. Gary

Screen names ONLY in PayPal message with payment. Please!!! Gary

Even better is not ever owning or really seeing deeply into a complete RSV. It's great to be a good guesser !!! Glad I could help. Gary

Tickle

I can send you one for a modest fee, no additional shipping & handling. I have them on hand. $265 via paypal. This includes priority insured shipping and support. I really do not want payments marked personal to avoid paypal fees. I can't run postage label easily, and I do a fair amount of paypal transactions and I don't want to incur their wrath. Below is last thread on them. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76731 This unit is only for carburated motor, they do sell FI units but they are over $1000. I got one on the last purchase and it is in the hands of a nearby, highly knowledgeable VMax guy. I think he is working on the turbo VMax at this point though. Gary

How does a clamp on amp meter work with DC ? I have only seen them for AC, have 2 actually. Gary

Gear indicator plate is a direct swap. Extra wires need to be ran to cluster for the extra 4 indications. I installed 3 LED lights on the underside of my gauge cover. Left one is lit in 1st, center in third and right one in 5th. This allows me to see gear position without focusing on the gauge itself. I can see it at a glance. No 2nd or 4th indicator, That way I don't have to focus and count lights, easy to tell difference between 2nd & 4th. LED is not as bright as it appears in picture. Gary

Yes I have it. This is a 2 dimensional representation of the advance curve. It does not indicate relationship between vacuum & RPM advance curves. Gary

Very nice Brian, knowing there is a little of Tweety in there. Thanks for other items !!! Gary

Where did you get a kit at? 1st I have heard of that. Guessing it is a third party universal type thing. Gary

I attached a picture of the back of a Royale type CMU showing jumper positions to bypass reed switches. Not sure if this will work for your issue though, but it may. Gary

I just emailed you one I sent out in last group. Probably same as you have. I just put another Ignitech unit in Tweety this weekend that is set up to IAP settings. I want to see if I get any dropouts with one from this latest group. Only about a 100 miles so far with no hicups. IAP is only in the V88 units. Almost every one I have sent out to people with an 83-89 Venture have been V80 units. Gary

See attached picture. Red arrow points to fan switch. Pull connector from sensor and jumper 2 wires in connector together. With key on, fan should spin up. Gary

Plywood would not be my 1st choice. Treated 2x8 or 2x10's would seem like a better choice. Water can get between the lamination in plywood no matter how well it is sealed on something like this. Any fastener hole, between individual sheets, etc, can allow moisture to get in and accumulate, thus promoting rot. Gary