dingy

It will be set up when you get it. With the 83, there will be a small rubber cap to plug off vacuum line to carbs for stock TCI. Instructions are included. And I will help on the phone or email if you need help. PDF of instructions attached below. Also attached is Ignitech manual. Techy stuff, you don't need any of Ignitech manual stuff to put it in bike. It is as close to Plug & Play as I can get it. Gary

Missed that. I have the same TCI avaliable now also. You will also get a new MAP sensor and other install related items from me. I have optional PC to TCI interface cables if you want to custom program TCI. Otherwise it will be ready to go if you get one from me. $262, includes insured shipping in USA. Gary

Part number is the same from 83 to 93 per parts fiche. 26H-15411-00-00 Gary

I am thinking it is an Ignitech unit. Due to adapter cable comment. Gary

Along the same line, it would be helpful to note in someones header that they have passed on. I tried to contact Don Brechun at one time only to find out he had passed on. He was very knowledgeable in TCI repair. As with any large group of people, there will be losses. Some form of notation would help notify others that person has passed. Gary

Mount the final drive to the swing arm, tightened up. Then see if the axle will fit through without forcing it. Rotate axle around to find sweet spot. If it fits nicely, no shim needed. Gary

Actually,rear end is from an FJR. Very similar, except shock bolt boss not drilled. I did change linkage when I put MKII swing arm on, I used it due to MKII 320mm rotor & rear brake setup for a while. I am not convinced shim is needed. I have one of Earl's shims, but didn't need it in Tweety or the Hybrid. There are a number of tolerances due to manufacturing involved. Gary

Here is a picture I have of Gunboat. One of the great members here. RIP Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/gunboat_zps984731fd.jpg

MKII drive shaft is about an inch longer. MKI is top of picture, MKII is bottom. I have had an MKI & an MKII swing arm on Tweety, and they are the same size. Difference is in final drive, I beleive. Gary

A few pictures of TCI location on dismantled bikes attached. TCI is under coil bracket. Gary

In 5th, 119.2 mph, assuming tire full diameter. Excel spread sheet attached set to your parameters. Gary

Attached is a PDF with a known cause for difficult to find neutral that Yamaha addressed on the 1st gens. Would also apply to 2nd gens as the mechanics are the same. Gary

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75778 Gary

The practical way to do it is to obtain a rotor from a 90-93 Venture. Not very common to find though. Also need the single pick up coil. A couple of wire reconfiguration and a 90-93 TCI or an ignitech unit should be all thats needed. What I am doing by using the RSV rotor requires that the stator be changed to fit rotor. And the RSV stator isn't a direct fit in the 1st gen Venture stator cover. I went this route for a couple of reasons. 1st is by marrying the 1st gen motor to the 2nd gen frame, I needed to interface with the 2nd gen radiator. 2nd gens have thermostat up near the triple trees under the tank. If I used the 1st gen water pump cover, I had to use the plastic elbow out of the pump into the thermostat housing, then out of thermostat housing into lower radiator feed. I was going to use the RSV thermostat unit and not put a thermostat in the 1st gen housing. This was plan A. Then at some point, I saw a water pump for a 2nd gen and had a strong suspicion it would fit the 1st gen block, got it and it fit. This allowed the use of the full 2nd gen radiator connections. But, that chrome housing looked lonely with the other three 1st gen covers on the clutch, stator & middle gear. Decided to get the other three 2nd gen covers and hope they fit. Clutch and middle drive cover fit great. The stator cover however, was different internally and wouldn't accept a 1st gen stator. So this issue drove the decision to get a 2nd gen stator & rotor. The 2nd gen rotor has the huge benefit of having a sprauge style starter clutch in it stock. When I got the 2nd gen rotor I realized it had a different lobe pattern on it than either of the 1st gens. After some talks with Ignitech, they sent me a program for the TCI that should work with the 2nd gen rotor. Haven't got far enough to get motor running to see if that works. 2nd gen rotor has a side benefit of being lighter by a couple of pounds than the 1st gen, which will help motor climb thru RPM's better, but down side of degrading low end take off torque. The issue with the shift shaft is driven by the forward controls on the 2nd gen as compared to the mid controls on a 1st gen. Very different shifter linkages. The 2nd gen uses a larger diameter shift shaft, this is the rod assembly that runs through the block and rotates the shifter drum. 2nd gen is about 4" longer and pivots in a oilite style bearing mounted in the middle drive cover. The size increase in the shaft required a different oil seal on left side of motor, right side isn't sealed as it is internal to block and would have been an easy oversize drilling. The increase in the ID of seal on the left side forced the OD of seal to next size up. There was not enough metal on the block to allow the seal recess to be enlarged. This was solved by using a 1st gen shaft through the motor block, then adapting a 2nd gen shaft cutoff to span the extra distance to middle drive cover pivot point. I had some machine work done to both shafts and the now screw together, just outside the block beyond the shaft seal. On the happy side of this, the 1st gen block is a direct bolt up to the 6 main motor mounts. I am not using the head to frame braces that the RSV has, due to VMax heads don't have provision to mount braces. Then on the easy side, a 1st gen complete fork & triple trees fell into place on the 2nd gen frame, this lightened the front end considerably. I am not using any of the 2nd gen fairings so this swap was fairly clean. Still haven't got a head light setup, but I am leaning towards an LED unit in a VMax style headlight housing. I have the pieces to adapt the VMax bucket onto the forks, just not to that point yet. Rear end has a VMax wheel is the RSV swing arm with a royal star housing with VMax gears in it. I needed the RS housing, or an RSV, to get the rear speedometer sensor mount. I needed this due to using a Royal Star tank with the instrument cluster that sets recessed in the top front of the tank. All the needed gauges are in a 6" diameter cluster. Somewhat compact and more of a retro look. All the above and I have quite a ways to go to pull this all together. Lot of wiring changes, shortening some wire cables since they won't run up into a fairing anymore. So far I haven't encountered a show stopper to all this. The air intakes will be challenging to get working decent. I can't use stock RSV or RS intake covers due to the throat spacing on 1st gen carbs doesn't match the 2nd gen air boots to the filter system. I think a set of 4" pods will work though. Exhaust while difficult, will just be writing a check to have a local exhaust shop bend up a set of tubes to fit in frame. 1st gen tubes won't clear the radiator in front, as well as needing revised geometry to fit in somewhat narrower frame wishbone opening on RSV. They can be made to fit, just need custom down tubes to pull that part together. Kids, don't try this at home !!! Gary

Almost correct Bob. 1990 was the intro of a digital TCI to the Ventures & VMax's. The 4 pickup coils, 2 coils each in 2 separate housings were replaced by a single pickup coil. The rotor was also changed. I think the stator cover remained the same. I wasn't aware of a suspension change in 1990 though. Gary

I can't think of a single reason to want to put a 2nd gen motor in a 1st gen. The obstacles to doing this are far outwieghed by any gains, and I can't think of any gains. Gary

I have a metal chin from an 84. Will part with it. Needs painted. I don't think the metal ones require the tabs on the crash bars. Gary

It is sort of a VMax motor, but not really. Yamaha never went to a 1300 block with the 1st gen VMax. This is a 1300 1st gen MKII Venture block. Pistons are stock Venture. The head decks have been milled 0.040" in order to increase compressin to about 12.5:1, this will compensate for using Venture pistons. Heads & cams are 1st gen VMax. Carbs will be from a 1st gen MKII Venture, but rebuilt to VMax specs. #2 carb body will be replaced with a carb body from a VMax, so I can use choke setup from VMax's. #2 has an added boss for mounting thumb lever. This bike will probably not have VBoost unit that Tweety has. Fairly sure I don't have enough room to get it in and get air intakes under the Royal Star fuel tank. This one may have NO2 in place of VBoost. Clutch is modified with double diagphram springs and all fiber discs are full size. All side covers are from an RSV. Required some serious McGyvering to shift shaft. Motor has rotor & single pickup from RSV with a sprauge style starter clutch. Use of rotor is made possible by Ignitech TCI as rotor lobe pattern is different from 1st gens. I didn't want to use an RSV TCI, nuff said about that. Exhaust system will require custom front & rear down tubes going into a Marks dual 2 into 1 headers. Not sure what muffler cans will be. Will be much shorter though than 1st or 2nd gens, due to no saddlebags, longer cans wound be fugly. Other than that, motor is pure stock. Gary

They are just plugs. The VMax guys have pinpointed these as source of idle issues. They are about $5 apiece, $50 for a carb rack with shipping. Not real cheap, but pulling a set of carbs and going through them again is a PIA. Gary

No I didn't pass you, but I did scrub off a fair amount of front pads to keep from it. Respect my elders, won't do it to you or Yammer. I'll let the legends bask in their glory, faded as it may be !! Gary

Don't worry about, I gave a couple of 1st gens a Tweety demo this weekend. I didn't do all this work just to look at it. Use it or lose it. I am fairly careful about areas I will abuse Tweety, city light hopping is not a smart place for it. But it is often where the Hardley's appear. And, I almost never do anything on group rides. Sorry Wayne, you were an exception, but you started it. Gary

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I have my box apart ,i had an itermittent.. miss..for i am also doing preventative misery..[PM] I HAVE 3 DIODES THAT SHOW A BLACK DOT ,none show the white foam i have seen here There should be 8 barrel diodes, all I have seen in person and in pictures have been grey & blue. 1, what is the white plastic for under the board, it was glued to box and board, when i seperated it i have blue spots on plastic where it was glued to 3 different capacitors.. dont see damage to capacitors..??? The plastic sheet is between vent holes and solder side of board, it may have been some high tech stuff in the 80's to help wick away moisture from board. I didn't put it back in couple of TCI's I repaired, worked fine. 2. i had white plug ends on wires and the clips are broken off yet on the box there is no spot for clips to lock,course box is black Normal i had glue on board bottom where all solder joints are ,,rise on on of the nuts that go to ???heat sink?? 3 sided boxes that have a nut on them ..glue is discolored in that area //maybe heat or just old///// That is an SCR in the heat sink in 4 places, sort of like a transistor, but capable of higher power switching. These are trigger for coil circuits I think. They will get warm due to current they are switching, which will cause darkening of conformal coating. The glue like stuff is a conformal coating, used in electronics that will be subject to high humidity. It seals board. on the plug in itself and in the hole is what appears to be vaseline .. Vaseline like stuff is probably dialectric grease, normal to use on electric connectors. at 3,000 rpm i have a cylinder cutting in and out . RIGHTY NOW AFTER GETTING THOSE AGGRIVATING SCREWS OUT ,,SURE WERE IN A BAD SPOT Remount TCI on top front of air box, you will need to cut one of the mount ears off to get it far enough forward to allow cover to seat back on. Use velcro to mount. I am taking rest of day for headache repair numbers on box are TID14-34 41R-11 IT IS A HITACHI IF ANY OF THAT MEANS ANYTHING SO DO I PEEL ALL THE GLUE OFF AND REGLUE ,,, i cant find my heatsink tool so i am hoping a alligator clip will do.. I wouldn't peel off conformal coating, other than in areas where you are soldering. You can mount diodes so they stand off board a ways, 1/4" at least is fine. Use low wattage soldering iron 20-40 watts. To much heat will cause the traces to separate from the board. Use an electronic rated flux. ( See picture for diode stand off. Fugly, but fully functional). Factory type soldering is done after all components placed on board, then board is ran over a molten pool of solder to do all components within a second or two. This is why all components are on one side only of board. 2nd picture is of 1st board I did and damaged traces. I had to jumper to another component on same trace to get circuit closed. It did work fine though. IS THERE ANY OTHER THINGS I CAN DO WHILE I AM HERE ,,,, /////??????///:detective::detective::detective::detective:PIC ARE ON?? MY DUMB PHONE?? I WILL TRY TO POST THEM My comments highlighted in original text above. Gary

100 feet on a trip that long and difficult is almost close enough. Could have been a lot farther. Gary

I am fairly sure it is the same. At the time I wrote it I didn't have any experience with the 86-93 bikes. Gary