Marcarl

I've had some of the issues where you speak of as well. Can't really say what causes it, or which part is reacting with which part. What I found to be helpful was to change primers and then wait a full day before using any topcoat.

Well, what can I say,,, it will be a long time before I can forget you two,,,,, the trailer speaks to me daily!!!! So you've gone onto something new,,, sounds like you,,, somebody needs help and you jump in,,, with both feet for sure. God bless you in your endeavours, and if you need some help, you know we're still here, doing what we do best.

The green might be overpowering, so it needs to break up some,. A black stripe would compliment and divide but not do much for deferring the intensiveness of the green. Now to go with orange or brown would draw away from the green and be complimentary as well,,,,,,,,, I think,,, but then what do I know,,,, I like Cognac!

Where did you say we were to sign up???

Now the big question and whether or not you'll be allowed to drive it. Do the pedal move up\down when you push you push the memory seat button? I know how much you like to have the pedals close to 'home' and if you have them up too far you just know what Eileen is going to do to you!!!

Does it have memory seats and rear view mirrors that go down when you back up? Congrats Eileen,,,,, enjoy!

Try a musical instrument store,,, you might get lucky

Happy birthday old boy,,,,,well I going to make a smart remark, but my clutch is slipping.

Do a compression check first,, just to make sure.

No wonder I was late for my appointment,,,,, now who did you say had to get the ladder??

Once you get the caps off you might find a screw or 2 to be 'frozen', so be careful in turning them. If you strip the head off of one, then the real fun begins,,,,,, don't ask me how I know, but it can be fixed.

You're going to get yourself a nervous breakdown. Know that this is going to happen and live with it. I really have no answer for you, for I have not investigated the kinds of people that are in question, but it happens all the time. Too much time on their hands, bored watching TV, no other relationships worth pursuing or enjoying????? many different reasons I suppose. Just try to loo past all the crap and realize it's a 'cost' of doing business.

I think you'll find the CLASS to be redundant for the front, fact is you'll probably disconnect it so that there won't be any air in the front. The CLASS won't dump all the air, so there is always a bit left in the system, and for me that was too much, and I used 1\2 spacers. The homemade toll is a piece of ABS pipe, easily made. I think it's 1.5".

Don,,,,, I know you didn't start this thread to shine the light on yourself,,, no you certainly didn't,,, and we do appreciate your thoughts,,,,,, BUT in digging around in my memory bank, it seems to me that the biggest thanks needs to go to the biggest meet we seem to be able to put together,,,,,,, it's somewhere in Ohio, so that would be: YOU :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

Sorry to hear this news. Our thoughts and prayers are for you and your family Abdul.

Number of things tend to leak. Looks like the one in the back is fluid, not oil,,, but I can be wrong. If it's fluid it could be coming from the overflow tubes, looking at the location. The black spot could be, valve cover gasket, or one of the engine covers is leaking. Leaks are also common from the middle gear cover (bottom bolt missing a sealing washer), left side of bike, and where the stator wires come out of the stator cover.

OHHHH there's one more coming alright,,, this has just been toooooo easy,,,,,,,,,get ready Bobbie!!!

The hub is where the wheel connects to the pumpkin, it's splined and if not greased with the proper grease the hub on the wheel will wear pretty quick. I use Lucas Extra Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease, some guys use a Honda molly grease. Just ordinary stuff won't cut it. If it's the Wheel bearings gone ( most often the case) you should be good to go. I haven't heard of any body having issues with the pumpkin bearings so I would assume they be OK. The hub attaches to the wheel centre. It is held in place with a C ring and it has 5 pins that insert into the wheel, no threads or anything funny. Remove the C-ring and then pry the hub off. Clean all the pins to bare metal, clean the holes as best you can and then grease the pins and holes as well. The large rubber seal that is around the hub keeps the dirt and debris out of the hub area but does hold any grease in place. Stick a screw driver behind the center and pry it off, it's only held in place by tension.

Don't see why you would need the shims. They were put there originally to line up the pumpkin to the swing arm, and that shouldn't change, unless you change the pumpkin. Did you check the clutch hub for wear?

I'm a Chevy guy, but the Ram I have outperforms the chevy hands down. 2005 Silverado 2500HD 4X4, and a 2008 Ram 1500 Hemi 4X4. My son still likes the Chevy, but I use the Ram,,, fine arrangement by me. Next truck might even be a Chevy.

Looks like something to start a parts drawer with,,, I would have suggested a coffee can, but the one part is a bit long I think.

All good then, I won't have to go into great detail. Remove wheel from bike. Remove clutch hub, it has a c-ring holding it on. Remove seals. Now you will need a long punch, make sure the end is totally square and grind a wee bit off to flatten a little edge. Insert the punch into the axle-shaft hole and see if you can move the centre spacer over a bit, you might have to wiggle this some as it determined to stay put. If it doesn't want to move from the side you are attempting, try from the other side. The centre spacer has a sheet metal collar around the outside of it to keep it from falling out of line and it runs from bearing to bearing. This collar could be anywhere, at either end, so a bit of trial and find. Once you can get the spacer to move over a bit, it won't be much, then you can drive the bearing out. One whack, move the punch, another whack, you know the process. Once that bearing is out, the rest will be a piece of cake. We did mine a couple of years ago. Saddlebum and me, borrowed shop and tools, total job to back on the road, 2 hrs,,,, and Saddelbum talks a lot.

Not all that hard really,,, have you downloaded the manual? and have you changed bearings in anything before?

Yamaha calls it a collar, but it works as the inner race, you should be OK to go

Looks like a good price, as long as the bearings are quality material, or else you'll be doing it again soon. Collar 90387-203H7-00 $10.79