Marcarl

And here I thought you were going to tell that you were now independent,,, well I guess the waiting continues.

If you are talking about the bearing in the pumpkin, don't worry about it, it's usually fine without interfearance.

Thread is moved to 2nd gen tech talk Opps goofed, I'll fix it. Now called 'side stand switch'

What's with all the pictures Gary???? you take all the fun out of the guessing game,,,, now what exactly did he mean by that?? Where did he say that goes??? I don't remember that spacer,, and I need a washer where???? You'll have him up and running in no time,,, and then what are we going to do?

When I did mine, I drilled it out, went fairly easily actually. First I got a drill bit that was just undersized for the bore. It might have a metric bit, but it has to be real close to the size of the bore so that when you drill the point ends up dead centre of the screw. I then drilled slowly and carefully to remove the buggered up head of the screw and to give a centering dip on the end of the brass screw. Then I switched to a much smaller sized bit, one that would give me a nice pilot hole through the screw but not to touch the threads. Then it was the next size up to a size very close to the bore size through the thread. When that was complete there was nothing but clean threads left. A little use of a tap and all was good. Keep in mind that the threads don't start at the top of the bore, they start about half way down so that makes it bit easier. Just be careful not to get into the threads.

I'm not a fan of a modulator, but am a big fan of using the high beam at all times except with oncoming traffic at night. Low beams don't stick out and tend to blend in, just seen as another colour, and a flashing low beam only barely stick out part of the time, whereas a high beam says to the opposing traffic: here I come, watch me!!! Do these modulators work on the high beam or low beam? Flashing brake lights do have some use, but I would rather make sure I have enough light back there to start with, and although the 1st gens aren't bad, they can still use some help.

Tears,,:rotf:,,,,,,,,, so where are you?? did you go to walmart lately??

Ahhhh you got the right scooter there Brenner,,,, this baby will take you around town and purr doing it. It doesn't mind 5th in town and will quietly leave the limits of peoples homes with barely a buzz,, but once you get to that road that calls for,,,,, let me goooooooooo,,,, then drop a gear or two,,,, grab a handful of the 'twist and go' annnnnd,,,,,, sitdown,shutup,and hangon. You might even be able to keep up with a Spyder.

Moved to first gen tech talk

Glad we could help,, now go for ride!

Make a visit to your local NAPA or MC dealer,,, most will have what you want,,,,, wire s\b wire core not carbon core and cost about $5,,caps are going to be about $8ea I think.

Although it is easier to get at by taking the faring off, the change can be done with the faring on, if your hands are small enough, and you don't cuss a lot. In the process watch out for the ribber o-rings at the coil end, they tend to go for a trip to who knows where, and magnets won't find them. The coils can be reached from the front. Each coil is in position as to the cylinder it belongs to, so right is right, front is front and back is back. Reach up under the faring at the front and undo the front wire and remove, that is the easy one,,,, a little further behind is the back coil for the back cylinder. This one is the PITA but can be done and wants to be done first. Run the wire into place, slide the nut onto the wire, then slide the o-ring onto the wire, now pull the wire back a bit so that the end can be inserted into the coil, insert the wire, push for all you are worth so that it seats well into the coil and then spin on a tighten the nut,,,,, good luck! A pair of long reach needle nose pliers comes in handy if you have them.

Pilot screws setting start at 2.5 turns out from bottom. Did you clean them as well, or could you not find them? Vacuum leaks are also a 'look at', but my guess would be to check the sync on all four. Often times people want to adjust the idle, look for a screw to do that with, find one and end up turning a sync screw instead,,, and yes, turning on a sync screw will adjust the idle somewhat, but do nothing for the overall picture,,,, and these motors will run amazingly well when they are out of sync.

Just for insurance and to be on the cheap, replace the wires and caps. If it hasn't been done before, things are getting pretty old and tend to not work as well as when they were new. It saves the guessing game and then you know where you are at.

I get mine at the local Yammi dealer,,, just get a length and cut to measure. I think I got about 8ft last time,,, it's cheap. Needs to be the wire kind, not the carbon kind.

So now your going to pull that apart eh???? Some points then to help you along. Clean all connections and don't put dielectric grease on them, but you could spry them with Fluid-Film when they are back together, good stuff that!! Open up the dryer and carefully remove the silica gel that is used as a dryer material. Put the gel in a ceramic dish and nuke it for about 2 minutes,,, now it's dry to use again. Take off the exhaust rubber tubing, split the filter easy to come apart) and make sure that is all clean. Take the valves apart,,, be very careful, the springs in there are small, light and have a habit of taking a road of their own. So be careful!!!!! Check the inside of the valves, especially the seats, they can corrode a little, if they are, just use a small drill bit with some fine steel wool attached to the end to hone them clean. use air to clean and then reassemble, use no lubricant.

It should hold the set pressure. You will loose pressure as you check for pressure as mentioned, but this will be very little, but then very little means quite a bit in such a small system. It will not air back up on it's own, you need to do that. So if you notice a loss, you need to physically get it to pump back up again. If you are losing air overnight, there is a small leak,,,,, very small. Most likely in the valves that control the airflow.

I just normally make mine tight,,,, my guess would be about 30 lbs, but that might not be right.

Congrats you two,, and may you find many blessings together as you continue to become married.

Ya sure,,,,,, Why me then??? Ordered a bubble envelope from JMCorp with a small cord packed inside on March 12. It must have grabbed a motel in LA for it stayed there for some time, then flew off to Vancouver where the weather must have been exceptional for it needed to rest there as well,,,, but hey, it departed there on the 18th and is expected here in S.Ontario for delivery on the 24th. Now if this was a large package, I could understand it,,, but an envelope????? USPS and Canada post. And they wonder why we don't ship with them???

From the cable housing to the attaching point at the carb the cable should not contact anything. You shouldn't have any issue with the return cable, it's well out of the way but it should also run freely. It's the 'pull' cable that often gets routed over the nylon spacer (it's a spacer, not a roller). Also check to make sure that the bracket that supports the end of the cable sheath is held together properly. Often times the round parts where the cable sits in gets loose from the bracket itself, and if those two aren't solid it will also give you throttle problems.

Make sure you have the throttle cable run in the right spot. As the cable enters the carb area it needs to pass a shaft with a nylon spacer on it. The cable goes on the inside of the shaft so that it does not ride on the spacer. The other issue I can think of is carb sync. You might want to check the sync. If one carb is out there is a problem.

It's towards the front if I remember correctly,, be careful, it's not much, something like 6 ftlbs or so.

So much for my input,,, can't see why I keep all that info in my head,, maybe I should clear it out to make room for more..... Thanks Carl, that would have been input exactly.

That about covers it,,, but if you use ether, remember that Ben has no money and can't replace anything on your engine.