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Take you time with getting it out as it can be a PIA to remove. Look it over and twist it around some and you will find it will just about fall out. You will need to remove the stator wires out of the way as if I recall it drops out of the bottom of the case. Good luck Rick F.

I have been using Ride-On Tire Sealant and Balancer in my 89 VR for a long time now. Not only to help with the balancing of the tire, which it does nicely, but for that added protection of sealing a small tire puncture if I get one while on the road. I dont always ride in the most populace areas when I am out and sometimes I am out of cell coverage so it gives me a little piece of mind while out. Here is the website for the product.. http://www.ride-on.com/ Just my 2 cents worth.. Rick F.

Here is a link to the service manual for the 86 Venture... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Go to the link in the link and it will take you to where to download the service manual as a PDF file. There is a section in there on rebuilding the carbs and how to check the float level with the carbs on the bike. To me it sounds like you have a float the is stuck open and letting the gas push out the overflow tube. here is another link to some more information... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?66468-Float-levels And here is a link to that Casey was telling you about... http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html Also when you rebuilt them, did you take off the jet block and check the rubber plug in the bottom of it. They should be tight in the holes and not fall out, if so they need to be replaced. Let us know how it goes.. Rick F.

There are no fuses under the seat, they are located on top of your battery and to the right front of it, as you have already found out. There is no relay for the horns in a stock configuration on these bikes. The horn button powers the horns directly so it is possible that the button is dirty or corroded. Clean it and it should work ok and if you do install a relay you still will need it to be clean to activate the relay. I dont recall what fuses are what but if you can access the owners manual or service manual from the website here, it will let you know. Check in the frist gen tech section under manuals. Let us know if you have any other questions. Rick F.

Thanks.. I wasnt sure to be honest what country .nl is associated with. Rick F.

I agree but they also have the owners manuals online and available also which we dont dang it.. Rick F.

If you dont want to build it yourself, one of the members here, Skydoc17, sells one all ready to install. Check out his page here.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=58&title=first-gen-1983-1993-battery-icon-bypass-lead&cat=17 Hope this helps. Rick F.

I would say forget the ride tomorrow and get a new fuse panel installed, checking all the wires as you do it. one of our members sells a kit to replace the fuse block with a modern blade type fuse, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=59&title=first-gen-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit&cat=17 . A lot of us here have upgraded as over time the spring clips for the glass tube fuses will break or crack and not give you a positive connection. Taking you time now will save you time in the long run and trouble when out on the road. Rick F.

Here is a website out of New Zealand, I think, that has a lot of information on the 1st Gen Ventures. Even though it is in New Zealand Venture were not that much different from ours and the information works for us also and the site is in English. They also have a copy of the service manual and owner manuals that you can down load for your use. The link is https://www.yamahaventure.nl/xvz-1300.html Or use this link for information on all the Ventures also.. https://www.yamahaventure.nl/ Hope this helps you out. Rick F.

It appears you are low on oil, the side stand is down and the battery doesnt have the probe inserted into one of the cells. The fuel gauge is located on the right side of the panel and 6 bars that indicate fuel level in the tank. You have 4 usable gallons with one gallon in reserve. The gauge shows empty when you are on reserve and then an gas pump icon appears on the panel with the red light. If you check the service manual on page 7-64, it describes what each of the icons mean and how to resolve the issue. The voltage meter only works when the engine is running as does the red warning light also. Hope this helps you out.. Rick F.

Glad to hear you have it running on all 4 now.. Now go out and put some miles on that bike.. Rick F.

I hope all goes well for you. I would say ride it for the summer and see how it goes before doing too many mods to it. Go out and enjoy it... Rick F.

Glad that worked for you, but I would strongly suggest that you download the service manual for the bike from this link.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals It will help you with all you are trying to do and where things are located and such. I use mine all the time when I am working on my bike. The two red wires coming off the bike are for two different functions. The line with the fuse is for power for the whole bike electrical system while the thicker wire is the lead to the starter replay and then to the starter. You need both in the system for it to work properly. The red flashing light means that there is an issue that the computer sees on the bike. There should be another icon lite on the panel and that will tell you what the bike thinks is an issue. Let us know what icon is lite or take a picture of it and we can let you know how to resolve it. Besides checking for spark, I would look into the gas tank with a light and see if you have any rust in the tank. If the bike was stored without gas in it then there is that possibility that there is rust in there and that will have to be dealt with first. If this was my project, I would change out all fluids in the bike, including brake fluids, rear end, forks, cooling system, and oil. At this point you dont know how long it has been since it was last done. Here is where the service manual is handing it letting you know what to do. Keep asking question and post pictures and we will do our best to guide you thru it all and have a fine riding bike. Rick F.

I think before I would install the new fuse, I would double check and make sure you dont have a short in the wiring. You should be able to check with an Ohm meter, with the fuse out from the red wire to ground and make sure you see an open, ie very high resistance, verses a short with 0 ohms resistance. Might save you chasing down another fuse or two. There had to be something that caused this fuse to pop in the first place. According to the manual, the main fuse is a 40A. I found that in the specifications section of the service manual on page 8-18 under the circuit breaker section. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Just thought I would share what I have found on replacing the fuel filter on the 86-93 Ventures. I order a replacement from Sirius Consolidated, part # 09-116, up in Canada as they listed it as a replacement for the Venture. When I tried to install this new filter, I was unable to get it to slide onto the existing fuel line. What I found was that the inlet nipple on the filter is 3/8 inch (10.4 mm) where the original Yamaha filter, part # 1FK-24560-10, is 43/128 inch (8.55 mm). The over all length is about the same for both. The reason I bring this up is that if you are not replacing the special fuel line, which of course if N/A from Yamaha, the replacement just simple has too big of a nipple for the hose to slide over comfortably. Here is a picture of the two filters with the SCI on the left and the Yamaha on the right. Hope this helps people out in the future. Rick F.

Glad you are ok.. and from the picture, you had to stop for the school bus no matter what lane he was in as this isnt a divided highway. I have always been trained that you must stop back of the school bus when the red lights are flashing and the stop sign is extended out. I am thinking you will need to get the bummer pushed back down before you can pop open the rear hatch. You might need to use a pry bar to open it but I am sure whoever fixes it is going to replace the rear hatch anyway. Good luck. Rick F.

I was just rereading some of you post and reports back. Question, have you measure the resistance between the end of the spark plug cap, putting the end of the probe into the cap in place of the spark plug and the correct wire going into the TCI unit. What I am thinking is pull the caps off all of the plugs, measure the resistance for all of the spark plugs wires and the corresponding TCI plug wire. ie, measure #1 cap to the orange wire in the connector for the TCI and see what we are getting for resistance. Do this for all the spark plug wires and lets see if they are all close to the same resistance. It could be the TCI, if you had some of the copper traces come off the board, that would cause issues for sure. The best way to replace them is to use insulated wire to run between the points where the traces have been lifted. Of course another issue is if it is a multi-layer circuit board with plated through holes. That can be a whole another story. I have not had my TCI apart so I can not say just how it is layed out or even guess where the traces all go. I would imagine that not even Yamaha has the schematic for it as it was most likely supplied by a 3rd party vendor and if repairs were needed, they sent it to them. When you said you got it running that last time and the tachometer worked, that makes me think that #2 coil is being fired or I should say the circuit is being grounded as I believe that is how the spark is getting generated. Looking at the circuit diagram, the lead for #2 coil, the gray wire, also provides signal for the tach and the fuel pump relay control, which in turns supplies the power for the fuel pump. If you had no voltage on the gray wire, that wouldnt power on the fuel pump and you would not be getting it to run. I believe that we have a constant 12v on the gray wire since that isnt dependent on the TCI unit. But the tach needs to see that drop if voltage, ie signal, to measure the RPMs of the engine. So that is why for me, the tachometer working when the bike was running tells me that the TCI is grounding the voltage on the gray wire for #2 coil as it needs the signal to generate a RPM reading. I would try getting some nonresistance spark plug wire. Parts Unlimited does sell 7mm in 72" pieces and it is fairly inexpensive. Dennis Kirk list it for $3.95 just to give you an idea. You could also pick up some NGK spark plug 5K ohm caps just to make sure they are good also. Caps are under $10 each also. I was able to replace my wired without taking the coils off the bike or removing the main fairing. I did remove the side panels and lowers to access the coils. The caps on the coils screw on and off and have small o-rings around the wire inside the caps, so be careful not to have them get misplaced. If you like I could try testing your TCI unit as I have my connection on top of the air cleaner also. I dont have my bike out for the season yet as I still have a lot of snow on the ground here in Minnesota. But I can get to mine and I could test it out for you and maybe check out your soldering and such in the TCI unit. I was an electronics bench tech at one point in my life long ago. Sorry for all the different thoughts and such here, thinking about this as I type and different ideas pop in my head about it. Let me know how things go and we can see what we can do to get this resolved for you. Rick F.

Yamaha is the only place you will find a new one from unless someone has one on Ebay or somewhere that they purchased new and didnt use and is looking to sell it. You can find the rebuild pieces at Yamaha and I believe some of the aftermarket suppliers have them also. No matter what you will need a new gasket for the cover as you have to remove it to access the slave cylinder. Rick F.

Not sure if you have done this but what I would do next is to get a new spark plug and pull the cap off of #2 plug and attach it to the new spark plug and with an insulated pair of pliers, hold the spark plug and ground the side of it to the engine and verify either a spark or none. Then do it again for #4 cylinder also. We know we are getting the tach to work so we are trying to fire the coils on that side. At this point I dont believe it is your TCI unit, so I am ruling that out for now. If you see a spark when doing the test it is possible that you are looking at a carb issue and might need to looks at those. If no spark, then it could be a coil issue or spark plug wire or cap issue. Let us know what you find out. Rick F.

If you dont have a air gun, you can order the Clutch holder as they are available on the aftermarket. The Yamaha part # YM-91042 for the clutch holder. I did a google search and came up with multiple different ones. Motion Pro has one for $25 MSRP. Just letting you know they are out there. Rick F.

That could be the connection for the California emissions air vent control valve. My wiring diagram shows it with Brown and Black wires into it but the location looks correct. What color wires do you have in that connector? There is a fuse for the ignition and it is #4 on the fuse panel. If it was bad, I dont believe you would have spark on 1 & 3. For timing to be off on this bike would mean that something is broken in the flywheel area as that is where the pickup is located. The timing isnt really adjustable. I am still leaning towards the secondary side of the coil. Do the ohm test and then one with the cap and wire connected to the coil. Also when you cut the spark plug wire, did you notice a small o-ring on the spark plug wire up by the coil. there is one there that help retain the wire in the screw on cap for each coil. Make sure you have those there for all 4 wires. Check out the troubleshooting chart on page 7-28 of the service manual. This is where you can do an ohm test of the pickup coils and might help with this issue. Good luck.. Rick F.

Wild guess on the connector, what about your Pressure sensor, do you have it connected to the wiring harness. If I recall it is on the left side of the bike on the coil tray and is were the vacuum line from carb #2 connects to also. If that isnt is, give us a better description of connector and/or a picture of it. Sounds like the coils are being fired if you are seeing the voltage drop, so that should, I repeat, "should" rule out the ignition box I would think. I would pickup an inline spark plug tester from Walmart, Autozone or some parts store and use it to test the coils, wires, and caps on the bike. You could also try the resistance testing of the coils as described in the service manual on page 7-30. I would also measure thru the plug wires and cap to make sure you dont have an open in there also. Good luck and just stick with it as you will lick this issue soon. Rick F.

I had the same issue with a replacement Fram oil filter also. I was just thinking it was a bad 0-ring but I guess it is the wrong one if you had the issue also. I just ended up reusing the one I pulled off as I didnt have a new one on hand to replace it and when I checked, no oil leaks there. Rick F.

As far as I know, the only place to get a new replacement thermostat cover is from Yamaha. They still list them in the parts listing as well as the o-ring and thermostat seal. Look under the water pump section to find them. Depending how far you wanted to take this, you could also replace the o-rings for the joint pipe that connects the water pump to the thermostat housing and also the o-ring to the drain cock assemble. (this is in the radiator hose section). When I replaced the hoses on my 89, I found the thermostat cover in good shape and not needing replacing but I was experiencing a small leak from the drain cock assemble in the cold parts of the winter and would have antifreeze on the floor. I used Skydoc_17 FIRST GEN. (1983-1993) RADIATOR DRAIN UPGRADE KIT! This is available in the member vendors classified ad section. This seems to cured my winter leak as so far this winter I have no antifreeze on the floor. Hope this helps you out. Rick F.