cptriker1

Got it!!! This is a huge help guys! I looked on the bike and the gasket was gone. Found the parts on ebay so should have them next week. Thanks so very much for those #'s! I'll update once I got them installed and if this is fixed. Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help. BTW.... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001010&id=366 Reference Figure #14 for example of screws that are missing from this article...

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help. BTW.... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001010&id=366 Reference Figure #14 for example of screws that are missing from this article...

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help.

Hey all...yeah...been a LONG time since I've said something but got something that's come up need advice related to this. So, took the bike last weekend to Hattiesburg and JUST as I got to my destination I started having exhaust noise that decreases (but still there at speed) so I'm thinking exhaust gasket on one of the front pipes. No, hadn't isolated yet as been busy. BUT, another issue then has appeared. The bike started as I got closer to home to run 'rough'. I've been noticing some 'off-idle' hesitation. No, it hasn't been synched since it was repaired 2 years ago. No, the plugs haven't been changed since repaired 2 years ago and I know I've been WELL over 5K miles for sure. I remembered reading about plugs (using NGK's) have to be changed often as this engine is hard on them? Need to know what gap distance is if you wouldn't mind. Also, you guys might remember my post about the rectifier about me changing a year ago as voltage was low. When I did the change I started getting the high #'s and all looked fine. Now, I'm back to dealing with this again. I've rechecked all lines to my new fuse panel and all appears right. It's just that I'm not liking the variation I'm seeing. If stopped it can drop below 12 (brake lights on) and of course goes up but not showing as high. Simply put - I'm not seeing the NORMAL 14+ when riding (might be a little lower on the dash gauge) but runs fine. IS THIS NORMAL is the best question? I _highly_ doubt that anything is wrong with the stator OR the rectifier. Sorry for mass of questions. Last one - if I do have to synch ((and I do NOT want to do this...)) is it ultra-difficult? I do have a tool for doing this, never used it. I use Lucas fuel conditioner ALWAYS, but you guys think I should run a fuel cleaner? As always, hope everyone is doing fine. Yet another stupid storm might be heading towards MS...this shit is getting old...

Well... Problem found. Put on stand, checked sight glass... Thing was a quart low. I thought I had enough when I did the change but screwed up in my process. My biggest failure was when I got the low oil pressure light I should have stopped right then, came home and CHECKED IT OUT. I got lazy. I know better. Lesson learned. Least I didn't push my motor and ignore the pressure light. Still have to do a run (great excuse to ride) and verify it is ok. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I had been using the WIX filter #51381 as that was on it when I got the bike and never had an issue. Then switched to # matching Fram and the first one worked fine. YES YES YES I already know about the hatred about fram filters. I just looked at the cross-reference of the wix to the L25288 and it doesn't match. I've had a LOT of problems finding a filter at a store that matches cross-reference to the WIX. Look, from what I've read in the past it was stated (by an actual engineer of a filter company) to NOT use a can filter on a bike unless it was made that way. He stated that pressures of oil flowing thru the filer are VERY different between a filter used on a car and the OEM filter made by the motorcycle mfg. Yes, I love the canister filter and who the heck wouldn't??? So now I got a choice to either change this all out (hopefully have everything, still haven't looked...) OR to go get a WIX, change it, twist the **** out of the bike and see what happens. If it works and that fram was the issue...me gonna get me $$$ back on it. If it doesn't, then I'll be forced to change to the OEM setup, try it and see. If I get oil pressure light again if I go that route...I know I'm screwed.

I know the difference between the oil level light and the oil pressure light. I'm going to go grab that oil filter and see if that makes the difference. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

To All: So...I was forced to get a new fuse panel. Mine had already been changed when I got it, but issues (voltage dropping due to loose connections) kept presenting and I got pissed so I ordered a new one off of ebay. Since then, I've had several things present that's got me curious and wanted to see your thoughts... 1. Engine now runs in ACC or ON. CSS (air pump) panel will never come on, only very rarely. It did NOT do this before the change. 2. I had replaced the rectifier and got GOOD volts (15.4 if memory serves) and was running right. Then had the issues with the fusebox and changed it. Everything is tight, but sometimes it's high...sometimes it's not. Again, thoughts? Thanks much. Very appreciated.

To All: Well, it's been a LONG LONG time since I last posted here on the board. l _thought_ I was about to get a GL1500, but...this damn unemployment makes my wife tell me NONONO!!! Ok, so with my '89VR it has the oil filter (canister) adapter. I just changed my oil and started getting the OIL PRESSURE LOW light on under hard acceleration OR if I'm at about 85MPH on the bike. It's normal speed for me as I run the interstate all the time. Now, with the last filter and oil change I had NO issues. So, I'm thinking that this filter is just way too stiff and not allowing oil to flow. I've HAD IT with this spin on filter and I want to go back to original OEM, and I already 'think' I have the parts to do it as I had ordered everything. If anyone has installed the filter adapter, what is required to get it off so I can go back to OEM? I'm a FAT guy (over 300lbs) so getting up and down is really painful so I want to have all the tools there for one shot to get it removed, install the OEM parts and be DONE with this. I know that another issue is that I'm dealing with the blinking OIL LEVEL light all the damn time. I know my level was spot-on last time, but I'll recheck it. This bike is HELL getting on center stand, have to use my floor jack to lift it up so I can finally get it on center-stand. Trust me, I've tried...just way too much easier doing it this way. Again, sorry that I've been gone for a long time...I've got another issue going to post under another thread..

Don, what they found exactly fits your symptoms. It sounds like a textbook case. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Are the pin and spring available at Yamaha? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have the EXACT same problem with mine. I've got to go ahead and order gaskets as I've got that stupid leak in that side that's got me so mad. But this morning i was parking my bike at a store 30 miles from the house and fell due to a MASSIVE pothole i thought I missed. When these bikes goes over you're just 100% screwed! I'm so glad I was wearing my gloves! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well, I've decided that after this new Dunlop I'm going to get tge Michelin Commander II for the rear. It'll be worth the extra money. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

VA - hey man...thanks for the quick reply. I agree with you. When I was doing my tire I was looking at it thinking about fitment with a CT. I was looking at the plastic splash shield and seeing just how NARROW it was. When I seen that, I starting thinking that it was a lost cause. If the splash shield (SS) was removed, I do think that having a CT would be workable because from what I seen that's the restrictive factor. However, I would like to know from those that have removed the SS because I haven't given this is my first time under there! It's not finding a tire that's the problem, it's where it's going that just sucks. Yet, we've all run into rain and the SS serves a purpose. Can we live without it? Can we just get a piece of plexi and cut-to-fit? So far as wear...well...I'll take my chances...only way to move forward. If the majority decision is to not move forward then I'm going to let this go. But, I've done reverse engineering projects before. If the SS was removed, what tire would work that would fit the rim and give the space underneath?