cptriker1

Got it!!! This is a huge help guys! I looked on the bike and the gasket was gone. Found the parts on ebay so should have them next week. Thanks so very much for those #'s! I'll update once I got them installed and if this is fixed. Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help. BTW.... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001010&id=366 Reference Figure #14 for example of screws that are missing from this article...

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help. BTW.... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001010&id=366 Reference Figure #14 for example of screws that are missing from this article...

Update (11/18/20)--- Oh wow was I ___wrong__ about what the problem was! So finally today I was able to change the plugs. Ones that was pulled looked to be in excellent shape. Started the bike, getting same sound (like exhaust gasket). So, I get on the ground, engine is cold and I'm able to put my hand FULLY on the front left pipe! Ok, this is WEIRD. I touched the other front pipe and it had all kind of instructions to NOT do that stupid shit again!!! :) So you start thinking that cold exhaust pipe is no ignition. Yet, I can't find any blowing air or a key indicator that shows where in the hell is this sound coming from. But then...I seen something FALL FROM MY CARB STACK!!! It's the freaking choke plunger (see pic)!!! Now I'm bewildered to say the least! I grabbed one of the just pulled plugs and check for fire...yep...sparking like crazy. So, that rules out loss on ignition side. Now I need to know if any of you guys knows what SIZE (measurement) of the missing 3 screws? Looked down in the engine v, their gone so replacement. I seen that on a carb teardown that locktite should have been used and appears that it wasn't by my mechanic. If someone knows exactly what the size of these screws are I can then find and start seeing __IF__ I can get this mounted back. I sure hope I can without having to remove anything. Also, I didn't see a gasket so does it require one from this to the carb housing? If so, got a part number? I was going around my shop thanking the Lord that at the exact moment this fell and I seen it! As always, thanks for any help.

Hey all...yeah...been a LONG time since I've said something but got something that's come up need advice related to this. So, took the bike last weekend to Hattiesburg and JUST as I got to my destination I started having exhaust noise that decreases (but still there at speed) so I'm thinking exhaust gasket on one of the front pipes. No, hadn't isolated yet as been busy. BUT, another issue then has appeared. The bike started as I got closer to home to run 'rough'. I've been noticing some 'off-idle' hesitation. No, it hasn't been synched since it was repaired 2 years ago. No, the plugs haven't been changed since repaired 2 years ago and I know I've been WELL over 5K miles for sure. I remembered reading about plugs (using NGK's) have to be changed often as this engine is hard on them? Need to know what gap distance is if you wouldn't mind. Also, you guys might remember my post about the rectifier about me changing a year ago as voltage was low. When I did the change I started getting the high #'s and all looked fine. Now, I'm back to dealing with this again. I've rechecked all lines to my new fuse panel and all appears right. It's just that I'm not liking the variation I'm seeing. If stopped it can drop below 12 (brake lights on) and of course goes up but not showing as high. Simply put - I'm not seeing the NORMAL 14+ when riding (might be a little lower on the dash gauge) but runs fine. IS THIS NORMAL is the best question? I _highly_ doubt that anything is wrong with the stator OR the rectifier. Sorry for mass of questions. Last one - if I do have to synch ((and I do NOT want to do this...)) is it ultra-difficult? I do have a tool for doing this, never used it. I use Lucas fuel conditioner ALWAYS, but you guys think I should run a fuel cleaner? As always, hope everyone is doing fine. Yet another stupid storm might be heading towards MS...this shit is getting old...

Well... Problem found. Put on stand, checked sight glass... Thing was a quart low. I thought I had enough when I did the change but screwed up in my process. My biggest failure was when I got the low oil pressure light I should have stopped right then, came home and CHECKED IT OUT. I got lazy. I know better. Lesson learned. Least I didn't push my motor and ignore the pressure light. Still have to do a run (great excuse to ride) and verify it is ok. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I had been using the WIX filter #51381 as that was on it when I got the bike and never had an issue. Then switched to # matching Fram and the first one worked fine. YES YES YES I already know about the hatred about fram filters. I just looked at the cross-reference of the wix to the L25288 and it doesn't match. I've had a LOT of problems finding a filter at a store that matches cross-reference to the WIX. Look, from what I've read in the past it was stated (by an actual engineer of a filter company) to NOT use a can filter on a bike unless it was made that way. He stated that pressures of oil flowing thru the filer are VERY different between a filter used on a car and the OEM filter made by the motorcycle mfg. Yes, I love the canister filter and who the heck wouldn't??? So now I got a choice to either change this all out (hopefully have everything, still haven't looked...) OR to go get a WIX, change it, twist the **** out of the bike and see what happens. If it works and that fram was the issue...me gonna get me $$$ back on it. If it doesn't, then I'll be forced to change to the OEM setup, try it and see. If I get oil pressure light again if I go that route...I know I'm screwed.

I know the difference between the oil level light and the oil pressure light. I'm going to go grab that oil filter and see if that makes the difference. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

To All: So...I was forced to get a new fuse panel. Mine had already been changed when I got it, but issues (voltage dropping due to loose connections) kept presenting and I got pissed so I ordered a new one off of ebay. Since then, I've had several things present that's got me curious and wanted to see your thoughts... 1. Engine now runs in ACC or ON. CSS (air pump) panel will never come on, only very rarely. It did NOT do this before the change. 2. I had replaced the rectifier and got GOOD volts (15.4 if memory serves) and was running right. Then had the issues with the fusebox and changed it. Everything is tight, but sometimes it's high...sometimes it's not. Again, thoughts? Thanks much. Very appreciated.

To All: Well, it's been a LONG LONG time since I last posted here on the board. l _thought_ I was about to get a GL1500, but...this damn unemployment makes my wife tell me NONONO!!! Ok, so with my '89VR it has the oil filter (canister) adapter. I just changed my oil and started getting the OIL PRESSURE LOW light on under hard acceleration OR if I'm at about 85MPH on the bike. It's normal speed for me as I run the interstate all the time. Now, with the last filter and oil change I had NO issues. So, I'm thinking that this filter is just way too stiff and not allowing oil to flow. I've HAD IT with this spin on filter and I want to go back to original OEM, and I already 'think' I have the parts to do it as I had ordered everything. If anyone has installed the filter adapter, what is required to get it off so I can go back to OEM? I'm a FAT guy (over 300lbs) so getting up and down is really painful so I want to have all the tools there for one shot to get it removed, install the OEM parts and be DONE with this. I know that another issue is that I'm dealing with the blinking OIL LEVEL light all the damn time. I know my level was spot-on last time, but I'll recheck it. This bike is HELL getting on center stand, have to use my floor jack to lift it up so I can finally get it on center-stand. Trust me, I've tried...just way too much easier doing it this way. Again, sorry that I've been gone for a long time...I've got another issue going to post under another thread..

Don, what they found exactly fits your symptoms. It sounds like a textbook case. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Are the pin and spring available at Yamaha? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have the EXACT same problem with mine. I've got to go ahead and order gaskets as I've got that stupid leak in that side that's got me so mad. But this morning i was parking my bike at a store 30 miles from the house and fell due to a MASSIVE pothole i thought I missed. When these bikes goes over you're just 100% screwed! I'm so glad I was wearing my gloves! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well, I've decided that after this new Dunlop I'm going to get tge Michelin Commander II for the rear. It'll be worth the extra money. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

VA - hey man...thanks for the quick reply. I agree with you. When I was doing my tire I was looking at it thinking about fitment with a CT. I was looking at the plastic splash shield and seeing just how NARROW it was. When I seen that, I starting thinking that it was a lost cause. If the splash shield (SS) was removed, I do think that having a CT would be workable because from what I seen that's the restrictive factor. However, I would like to know from those that have removed the SS because I haven't given this is my first time under there! It's not finding a tire that's the problem, it's where it's going that just sucks. Yet, we've all run into rain and the SS serves a purpose. Can we live without it? Can we just get a piece of plexi and cut-to-fit? So far as wear...well...I'll take my chances...only way to move forward. If the majority decision is to not move forward then I'm going to let this go. But, I've done reverse engineering projects before. If the SS was removed, what tire would work that would fit the rim and give the space underneath?

So, the replacement I got for that screwed-up tire was a D404 @ $130 (mounting & balancing) at a local shop. So, I was cool with that until I just read someone saying that those tires have CRAP for wear. Great. This was my first tire change and it was pure living HELL. I had about 7+ HOURS involved!!! But, before you guys freak let me explain that a previous owner had a lot of 'dressings' on this bike and they're attached EVERYWHERE. With no help, being overweight, it was a slow fight. Additional problems came up and had to remove BOTH bags because of the dressings and that's what got me. But, at least I have an a/c in the garage to keep me cool. Still, now I'm frustrated with saying that I just spent $130 and I'm working part-time. I was reading about a size that cowpuc suggested (175R16) and this is a proven CT from what I'm reading from other forums (see: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/697021-175r16-car-tire-for-the-07-ultra.html). This having been said, I got my bike together and didn't take the measurements I was wanting to get. I know I've got to get it back on center stand and now that I've got it installed ((and not frustrated/tired from the install)) I can now try to get measurements with a new tire hung under there with My question is this: Is ANYONE interested in solving this problem? Or has everyone resigned to just sticking with MC tires and this is a lost cause of nothing but wishful thinking? Cowpuc: I'd really like you to weigh in on this. Personally, I think this would be safe to do. I know that you've got some of the MOST experience with this bike and I know you've put more miles than I could possibly even think about on these bikes. I'm not that type of rider. However, if I have to spend the $$$ but I get a tire that WORKS and LASTS then that's better for me. IF I was working F/T then it'd be no problem for me to go out and get everything I need (equipment). But, after being unemployed since 2017 and now just working a p/t job, despite the pay I'm not able to go full-blast to get this project moving. I know that I have the prefect testing ground here at home (US Hwy 90). It's just been repaved by the govt. and it's smooth as glass. It's a 45MPH road, so it's going to allow for being able to test a change at low speed from the house to work and my normal screwing around on the coast. SO HERE"S WHAT I"M PROPOSING---------------------------- We all know this can be done but cost is the factor. ALL of us could stand to reap the benefits! All we just need to know is what works. I purpose that we all come together and here's what we do: We have to take pictures and measurements. We come together to agree on the BEST tire that we're willing to say will work. We need someone to volunteer to be the tester. This person will need to have all the equipment to do the install on their Gen1 and already have a spare rear rim. We find that tire size and total cost. We agree to PayPal the money to the 'tester' for them to order the tire. Cost of the tire will be a minimum donation of $20. I'm willing to front that just for ****s-and-giggles!!! Tester will purchase the tire, mount, balance, install, and give it a whirl! Final results by tester will be posted of initial impressions & first ride. Cowpuc, I know you have tons of experience dealing with tires on these bikes. I know you've helped me in the past and I really want to convert to a car tire. You're one of the most trusted members on the board, so I was wondering if you'd be game to do this. If you can't, then I know that I would, but I don't have the tire changing equipment and I need a spare rear tire rim. The previous tire size was around $160 so we need eight people to jump in and say they'll donate the $20 for this. I'm in so now we need 7. We all know that any information would be that...information only. No one would be legally in trouble, this is just us getting around, testing, and if you do it...the risk is on you!!! I'm calling on all GEN 1 people to step up. Let's do this!!!

D404 Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Suzuki City in Biloxi. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

What could have killed me... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Ok, this HAS to be solved. I'm so pissed about having to plunk down $130 for a OEM Dunlop (included mounting & balancing) and looking at limited miles. Yet others (Wingers) have solved this issue with glowing reports. I drive the PISS out of my bike and I want things to last. It's time to solve this ETERNAL question because there's us in here that just damn well aren't going to give up our first gen machines unless pried out of our dead hands OR lottery happens. That being said, one person posted a size on Darksiders for the 89VR (which I have) but NEVER posted if it's a confirm working fit or not. I mean, COME ON!!!! We all know that DS'ing 2nd gens work...and just for the plain poop of it I want to know. One guy in this tread talked about someone had done it but failed to discuss the size of the tire only to say that the bead was off???? So, I'm planning to get my expensive metric calipers out since I've got the ENTIRE a$$ end of my bike dismantled and I'm going to take pictures and start running numbers to start tracking this down. I want to solve this. Right now I'm just stuck with this bike. I've never changed a tire before and don't have the equipment at home, but I've told my wife I'm pissed about this after what just happened to me (I'll post a pic) and you'll understand why I'm motivated to solve this.

Well, a brand new Dunlop is going on today... Im just glad this one didn't blow on me at speed... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yes, it is the Avon Cobra Venom. Date code 1915. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yeah it was cracked, split, just outright SCREWED. God protected me. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Tire was an Avon. Made in 2015. Was told this morning the number one killer of tires is low pressure. I had 22 & needed 40. And this is what happens. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Since I've gotten my bike over a year ago, I just more or less didn't look at my rear tire. The owner insured me that the tire was only a year old, but I had been told that the matching front tire had a date code of being 4 years old. About 2 weeks ago as I was riding my bike I started feeling this weird tapping being transmitted to my right foot through my pegs. This happened when I leaned my bike towards the right but when I leaned it towards the left the tapping went away. Now this tapping was not a sound it was just a tapping that I was feeling as the tire was rolling. But I've been too busy and the only way I can get the bike up on the center stand is to use a jack. This combination of factors could have cost me my life. Just the day before I pulled this Tire I was on the interstate at highway speed. And yes, this is a condition I was riding on. I don't know what to say other than I was just stupid. This tire was split in so many places oh, it's one of the worst that I've seen in my life. In multiple places you can see right to the chord, but then you can see this one section where I completely lost a chunk of rubber. Just understand, I'm not able to do nor do I do burnouts. I just drive my bike, and I drive it a lot! But to think that I let a tire get this bad it's entirely my fault. Sadly, in order for me to get to the tire it has taken me over an excess of 5 + hours to remove the previous owners dressings and additional problems that compounded the time to remove this tire. Needless to say, all this dressing crap is not going back on the bike. I mean it looks cute, but removing it is nothing short of pure hell and it has to be removed in order to get to the tire. And when I have to go through something like that, it's time for it to be removed! Fortunately, a local Suzuki dealership has a Dunlop Tire on hold for me. The owner has been balancing motorcycle tires since the sixties oh, and I can attest that his work is first class. So, tomorrow I'm going to wind up spending $130 to mount and balance a brand new tire. Gee what a small price to pay in order to protect my life. I guess it'll be safe to assume that I'm going to make sure that at least once a month I lift my bike up and inspect both tires and at the same time checking my oil as well doesn't hurt. It's just that we all get busy, but sometimes missing something really could cost you your life. I have to say this very plainly only the Lord protected me with this tire not letting go. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk