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It would be a better choice to replace that fuse box with a new one as suggested above. This old one loose tension on the fuses and end up with loose connections. I had that issue in my 89 and after replacing it with the blade fuse type, no more issues. Just something to think about as you hate to have issue when you miles away from home. Rick F.

The rubber plugs actually seal the bottom of the passageway and prevent the block from sucking gas out of the float bowl. They should fit nice and tight and not be loose at all and if they are loose, they need to be replaced. There is a place online from Canada that does sell parts for the carbs, Sirius Consolidated Inc and they web address is https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?make=2&model=Venture Royale&part=All&partno=&x=56&y=16&search=search&start=0 This link will send you to the catalog for Yamaha Venture parts and you can look through there for different parts including carb parts. I hope this helps. Rick F.

I see you have a 2000 Venture, where I have a 1989 Venture Royale. The VIN number for your bike is stamped on the steering head bike, readable from the right side of the bike it appears per the owners manual. I didnt see where the engine number is but I know on my bike it is on the left back side of the motor just about the transmission cover at the left rear of the engine. Yours could be in the same location but I am not sure. Where about in Minn do you live as I am in Bloomington and might be able to assist you in locating the needed number if you would like. Here is a page from the owners manual that might help with the VIN number and I included the engine number location from my bike also as the engines are built about the same. Let us know if this helps you or now.. Rick F. 2000 Yamaha RSV page.docx Yamaha VR Mark II numbers.docx

Dave, I just checked my 89 VR and there isnt a lot of play in mine but I have the standard toe shifter on mine. It could be that the toe and heel shifter shaft is a little bit smaller in diameter. Maybe one of the guys with the toe and heel shifter will chime in and let us know how his is. One way to get a different bushing is to pick up a used stator cover case and see if that makes a difference. I would take your shifter and try it in the hole of the different case to see. You can find them on ebay a lot of times. Good Luck. Rick F.

I am not aware of a replacement part and checking the parts fiche, I dont see it listed either. Just how loose is your shifter shaft in the bushing? I will check mine and see how much play I see in it and let you know. Rick F.

Other than watching them on TV, I haven't been to an actual auction of theirs. Have you checked the rules for selling and buying cars on their website as I believe they do check over the cars that they auction and make sure they are as advertised as they cant afford a bunch of disgruntle buyers. Also when bidding, keep in mind the buyers premium and shipping cost of getting your purchased to you. Also watching the auction online if you cant be in person is a better way in my opinion as you don't have to worry about commercials popping up and you not seeing the car you want to bid on. Good luck!!! Rick F.

Welcome to the site and to the Venture Family.. Rick F.

I was just wondering if anyone knows of any physical differences in the Front fork outer tubes on the 88-89 Ventures vs 90-93 Ventures. I see the part fiche has different part numbers for them but the internals use the same parts so I am wondering if it is just a cosmetic difference or something else. I see they list the 90-93 as a silver or UR clear. Thanks Rick F.

BrakeCrafters has a caliper rebuild kit for the 86-93 Ventures. https://www.brakecrafters.com/collections/1989-yamaha-xvz13/ Personally if you are going to rebuild the left front caliper, I would rebuild them all including the master cylinders also. And one step better would be to replace all the rubber brake lines with steel braided hoses. Here is a source from those.. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p04.htm And a member, Skydoc 17 also sell the complete package for steel braided lines. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139142-6-Line-First-Gen-S-S-Brake-Line-DeLink-Kit-with-Upper-and-Lower-Clutch-Lines! The BrakeCrafter kit is nice as he supplies all the items needed to rebuild the front pair of calipers including the o-ring between the caliper halves. This allows you to take them apart and doing a better cleaning job in my opinion. I have this kit and it works out very nicely. I also replaced the rubber hoses with the steel braid lines and it makes a world of difference in the stopping of the bike. Good luck and let us know if you have any questions. Rick F.

I agree, seems a little high even to me. I paid $3500 for my 89 Venture Royale 12 years ago after it had been sitting for a while. At the time it had 32K on the clock and needed tires and a good tune up. Just my opinion but I would offer him a lower price as the Venture goes for less than the Goldwings of the same year. Rick F.

Sorry Pasta Burner, It does appear I inadvertently mislead you as when I double checked my washer placement it is located between the bracket and the swingarm. I should have checked it better when I told you that.. Sorry for all the issue it has caused you and the trouble.. Rick F.

Have you check the reserve lighting unit to see if the terminal are clean on that. I don't see it listed in your wiring diagram so I am not sure what this is for. If you check some of the older treads on here you will find some information about removing the reserve lighting unit with some jumpers and that should remove your light issue if it is due to the reserve lighting unit. Hope this help. Rick F.

This was the reason I stopped using it as it was way to easy to suck up the fluid into the carbs. I went with the Morgan Carbtune, http://www.carbtune.com/ , as it is a lot easier to use and store and a better tool in my opinion. Hope this helps. Rick F.

If I recall, I purchased some Ventureline items from them off of Ebay and had no issues with them at all. It has been a number of years since I have done that but call them and see if they have the parts. They are state side so that is a big plus. I try and steer away from the China crap as it doesnt seem to fit or last. Rick F.

This is item #30 . Plate, Seat 2WR-2318U-00-00 Go to this site http://store.speedandsportinc.com/ and enter the above part number and they show having 2 in stock at this $14.51 each. I am not sure on Shipping charges but least the show having the parts. Good luck.. Rick F.

You could be correct as we know the manual isnt always correct.. I looked in the library and didnt see anything mentioned about it. Might be do the lower bleeders and wait a day to bleed the high one.. give the air a chance to rise to the top.. Rick F.

You should be able to access the rear master cylinder and reservoir by removing the right side panel and shouldnt have to remove the seat. The proper bleeding steps are listed in the service manual on page 6-21. First bleed the Right Front caliper with the front brake lever. Second is to bleed the Left Front Caliper with the rear brake pedal or bleeding device. Third is to bleed the Rear Brake Caliper with the rear brake pedal or bleeding device. Forth is to bleed the Metering Valve with is located up by the top of the triple tree. You do this one last as it is the highest point on the braking system and should be where the air in the lines if there is any would be located at. While doing all this bleeding make sure the reservoir is always full so you arent pumping air back into the system. I have found that using a mustard or catsup dispenser bottle with the brake fluid in there makes it easier to fill the reservoirs. On thing to note is that the hose are getting soft and not letting getting the full pressure get to the calipers. I replaced mine with steel braided hoses and the brakes worked 100% better. I could put my hand around the hoses and apply the brakes and feel the hose swell in my hands before replacing them. So just something else to think about as these are 30+ year old bikes also the caliper rebuild kits from BrakeCrafters includes the small o-ring between the caliper halves so you can spilt them to aid in the cleaning and have a fresh o-ring to replace them with. Hope this helps. Good luck Rick F.

I dont remember it being an issue on my bike.. refer to manual page 6-6 and 6-10 upper picture... once the circlip is remove the clutch hub #10 should be able to be slide out of the wheel hub and I would also remove the hub dust seal #11. If I recall correctly, the pins in the clutch hub will slide out of the dampers and these pins are what you want to clean and grease. I also clean all the old grease from the gear and reapply fresh grease. You might need to do some prying on the clutch hub if the pins are stuck in the dampers. I would be careful on how much pressure you use and it is just an aluminum hub. I hope this helps. Rick F.

That is my method also.. works for me on the first try most times.. Rick F.

For the final drive gear oil change and inspection, refer to service manual page 2-27. For the rear suspension refer to page 6-48 to 6-55. You might find grease zerks installed by a previous owner but they didnt come install from Yamaha till 1990 models I believe. You can add them to it and it is a good idea and easy way to lube the pivot points on the A-arms but does require you to basically take apart the rear suspension to do it. refer to this for information.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1057-Frame-Fork-and-Wheel-Tips One thing to beware of in the service manual is that the 88-93 bikes have a different A-arm setup and how the pieces look compared to the 83-87 ones. Also the shock mounts differently on the 88-93 bikes. The service manual shows pictures of the 83-87 bikes and not the 88-93 bikes. Another thing is that you dont need to worry about is lubing the 88-93 drive shaft where it enters the final gear drive as the lube oil from the final drive takes care of that. The 83-87 need to remove their drive shafts to lube the gear on the end of theirs. With the wheel out of the gear drive, there is an gear on the wheel that messes with the gear drive, page 6-10 has a picture. On the wheel is a gear held onto the shaft by a c-clip, remove it and pull the assemble out and grease the fingers that go into the wheel.. refer to the above link and rear wheel service portion of that post. I hope that helps but if not ask more and we will see if we can get you thru this.. Sounds hard but isnt really that bad to do and makes a big difference in the ride of the bike when finished. Good Luck Rick F.

Well with the exhaust off on both sides, I would be servicing the rear suspension, rear gear assemble, and grease all the wheel bearings. Good chance none of that has been done in a while if the tires are that old. With the bike high enough the rear wheel should be able to dropped down and worked out without removal of the side bags and frame and rear fender. Good luck.. Rick F.

Has anyone here tired the Parts Unlimited fule petcock rebuild kit for our bikes yet? I saw a few listed on ebay and was just wondering if anyone has tried them to see if they fix the sticking fuel petcock issue with the bikes. Here is a link to one of the items on ebay.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Unlimited-Fuel-Petcock-Rebuild-Kit-Yamaha-XVZ1300-Venture-Royale-1986-1993/313076905982?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3Db91d15c5acdc4edfb7aa16bd4b1f8f05%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D401567120357%26itm%3D313076905982%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DParts+Unlimited&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Thanks Rick F.

Since she isnt doing her original journey, she is traveling around her native Netherlands show us some of the sights and history there. Sounds like Royal Enfield has loaned her another bike to use and some of the companies there have outfitted her with some gear also. Rick F

Do you have a service manual for your 83 VR as there is a troubleshooting guide and systematic for the lighting electrical system, page 7-23, in there that can be of assistance to you. If you dont have the manual you can download one from here.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Using the guide should help you figure out where you are having an issue at. This isnt a direct connection from the dimmer switch to the headlight as there is a reserve lighting unit in there as well as some other items. Do you have a failed headlight icon on your control panel? Hope this helps you out and good luck. Rick F.

the manual doesnt give the proper location to test the diodes. Looking at the drawing and the chart it should be.. d = Red Wire a = White wire 1 b = White wire 2 c = White wire 3 e = Black wire. What that test does it to verify that the diodes in the rectifier are good. If the connector is getting too hot to hold then there is corrosion in the connector and it either needs to have the terminals cleaned or the connector replaced. Some of us here have replaced the regulator with a more modern one that does a better job of charging the battery and supplying current to the electrical system also. Hope this helps.. Rick F.