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Are you using the procedure in the service manual to check the stator and its components? There is a copy of the manual in the tech library that you can download and that will help you out. Also do you still have the original fuse panel installed? The fuses have a tendency to get loose in the holders as they lose their tension to hold the fuses tight. Most of us have replaced it with a blade style fuse holder. Also make sure the connectors for the regulator and stator are clean and corrosion free as that will cause issues also.. Good luck Rick F.

It isnt sounding good. Have you checked your oil to see if it is looking or smelling like there is gas in it. Also how did the plugs look when you pulled them out. The bike being hard to turn over by hand with the plugs out doesnt sound promising either. I would let it sit with the plugs out for a day or so and then see if the starter will turn the motor over freely. If it does, I would then try a compression check on all the cylinders to see what the readings are on those. That will help to let you know what the shape of the motor is to a point. If it wont turn over with the starter than there could be bigger issues but that would take more diagnostics to determine just what is the issue. Let us know what you find out on the spinning of the motor. Good luck Rick F.

The washer is on the rear axle and goes between the wheel and the caliper bracket. I have see where people put the washer between the swingarm and the caliper bracket and this force the caliper out of alignment with the rear rotor. Hope that helps. Rick F.

It does sounds like a bent or warped rotor and most likely is the rear rotor and not the front. I believe in theory that the rear brake applies before the left front brake does. One thing to check is to make sure the rear washer is in the correct position on the right side of the wheel. It should be between the wheel and the caliper bracket. I had the warped issue on my 89 VR and ended up replacing the rotor with a used one that was not warped and made sure to test it before riding it and it was smooth when I spun it around by hand. I would make sure to properly bleed the front and rear brakes also. If you dont have one, there is a copy of the Yamaha service manual in the Tech section and it will give you a lot of information on the proper way to bleed the brakes. Good luck and let us know how it goes..

Check out this link as a member here sells the upgrade kits to replace the stock fuse block.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139140-First-Gen-VR-(1983-TO-1993)-Fuse-Box-Upgrade-Kit! Rick F.

I have caught up with her now on season 2 episode 75... I need to go back now to season 1 eps 1 but her video skills have improved a lot and it has been fun to ride along with her on this journey. Rick F.

Has anyone else been watching the youtube vlog of a young lady who is riding her motorcycle from the southern tip of South America to Alaska. She has video of the ride and most updates almost daily when she is riding. Here is the URL to her channel. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=itchy+boots+season+2 She has also ridden in the middle east and Asia in her season 1. The Americas trip is season 2 which she is doing right now.. Hope you enjoy it as much as I am.. Rick F.

if you havent yet, I suggest you download the service manual for your bike. It will help you in getting the plastic off the bike in an orderly manner. Here is the link to it. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1986-1993%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Service%20Manual.pdf Also look over the tech library for a lot of answers to question I am sure you will have and of course dont be afraid to ask us here if you cant locate an answer. Rick F.

What bike are you looking for them to fit as I have a couple for the 1st gen I am willing to part with. Rick F.

You can also try this method. I have used it in the past on my bike and have had good luck with it. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm This is for a Vmax but the Venture has the same basic carb layout. Good luck.. Rick F.

yes, the omnidirectional isn't the best idea here. You want a directional antenna and one designed for HDTV signal. Also where do you have the antenna mounted at presently? I have a digital antenna as a backup to the cable and have it mounted in my attic. It receives signals from the towers that about 35 miles north of me plus some other ones around the area. Check around and you can find a good one that will work for you. Check out this link for some ideas. https://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-tv-antennas,review-2354.html Rick F.

Trying to ride my VR as much as I can but there never seems to be enough time with all that life throws at us. Might be riding it for the last time this season very soon as the weather is about to get cold again. Good Luck Rick F.

Any of the 1st Gen Ventures, no matter what the year, should have replaced the hydraulic hoses for the clutch and brakes even if they arent leaking as they have to be soft and springy by now. You are loosing a lot of your force as the hoses are expanding and not transferring the pressure to the end device. I replaced mine about 6 years ago with the steel braided kit and it was surprising how much better the brakes and clutch functioned when applying them. Rebuilding the master cylinders isn't that tough of a job and is well worth the time to do it also. I also use a Harbor Freight brake bleeder and vacuum pump kit to assist in the bleeding. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html Good luck. Rick F.

I just thought I would throw out there that I havent read every single post in this thread, so I hope I am not repeating anything. If you think you are not getting enough gas at idle and off idle, then you can increase the Pilot jet size from 37.5 to 40.0 or even a 42.5 and this will increase the available gas to the engine. This jet is #13 in the carb schematic on page 5-1 of the service manual, and fits into the bottom of the jet block. The jet are available from Yamaha and I have attached a file I made with the different jets and the Yamaha part numbers for them. It is also possible that they could be available on the aftermarket also. When watching Damon Ferraiuolo carb rebuild video, he even suggest replacing the 37.5 with a 40.0 jet as it makes it easier to get the bike to idle better. It is also my understand that this jet provides the fuel for the carbs till about 3500 rpm when the main jet, needle jet, and jet needle take over fuel delivery. Just a thought. Rick F. Mikuni Jet sizes and Yamaha part numbers.docx

I prefer Seafoam over Stabil as I have a friend who works on small engines tell me that Stabil will gel up over time where I have not had that issue with Seafoam. I use it in all my gas engines and have had no issue with starting them up after sitting for a extended period of time. I also try to use non-ethanol gasoline in my motorcycle when I store it for the season and all my small engines. Just what I have found that works for me. Rick F.

There really isnt a complete rebuild kit for the Ventures so you have to piece one together usually. Here is a few links of where you can get the kits and assorted parts. https://www.carburettorshop.com/contents/en-us/d380_Mikuni_BDS_carburetor_parts_and_rebuild_kits.html https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?make=2&model=Venture%20Royale&part=All&partno=&x=56&y=16&search=search&start=0 https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042779f8700209bc7889b1/carburetor There is a difference between the 1200 and 1300 carbs so you need to be careful to make sure you get the correct parts. Also the Chinese parts are not the best quaility and fit so be aware of that. I would do a little online research before using them but that is my opinion, but for the cost of that "kit" they cant be of the best quality. I would also suggest that if you are going to tear down and rebuild the carbs that you get a nice video made by Damon Ferraiuolo. It is an excellent video on the disassembly and reassembly of the carbs. He is using Vmax carbs but they are basically the same carb with just a few differences is all. Here is a link to a previous forum post about the video. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119186-Bought-Carb-Rebuild-Video-by-Damon-Ferraiuolo And above all else, dont be afraid to ask questions of us. Good luck.. Rick F.

The vacuum advance is on carb intake #2 . Cyclinders 1 & 3 are in the back, 2 & 4 are the front ones. The vacuum line connects to the ignition control box under the battery. The temp gauge on this box will show at the red line and then the fans kicks on is the normal way, so if the previous owner had that happen, it might not have over heated at all.. The air suspension is only adjustable in the accessory position on the key lock. Hope that helps out. Rick F.

either way you drain the tank should work, but when refilling it with fresh gas, but some seafoam in the gas tank first and then fill it with gas. This will help clean the carbs up a bit also. If there was gas left in them, they will have varnish in them also and may need to cleaning or rebuild. Good luck but it will be worth it once you get it running properly. Rick F.

I would have to agree with you that is either front fork oil or rear shock oil. I think your next step is to remove the travel trunk and check the air compressor and the air lines and see if that leads to what is leaking. Hope that helps. Rick F.

I have been using a Deka AGM battery in my 89 VR for a number of years and have no complaints with it. I picked mine up at Mills Fleet Farm in Minnesota here and is labeled for their private brand, Road Runner, but it is manufactured by Deka as when I pulled the label off the box it was a Deka label under it. So it pays to check and see where the battery is produced and stay away for the China ones as they are nothing but trouble. Hope this helps. Rick F.

I am not far from him and could do this for you. I dont live far away from Hopkins and drive past there past it a lot. Let me know if you would like me to do this? Rick F.

What you have is an aftermarket replacement light bar with turn signals in it. It was available from Big Bike Parts out of Rice Lake, Wi. You might be able to contact them and see if they still have any of the replacement lenses available still. This is from an old post on the lenses: I called Big Bike Parts at 888-244-2453 ext 10. The part numbers are as follows: Center red lens 900100L Left amber lens 900100LL Right amber lens 900100RL They had all 3 items in stock as of last Thursday, 7-18-13. I hope this helps and good luck. Rick F.

This is a tough one to answer as it depends on your mechanical abilities to reassemble the bike. I would go cheaper then the asking price on this project. It would depend on if he disassembled the engine or not. You might be able to sell the plastic off via ebay if it is in good shape and some of the other parts you wont need in your conversion or if you find that it is too much of a basket case part it all out and recoup your money hopefully. Good luck Rick F.

I have "shotgunned" my carbs a couple of times and it is a good way to clear up some of the circuits in the carbs. Do a search here or on the internet as it is a common practice for these bikes and the Vmax. Seafoam works wonders also and I have gotten into the habit of storing all my small engine gas with Seafoam added to it and all my engine start right up even after sitting for any length of time. I also store my VR with a full tank of nonethanol gas and seafoam added to it and my VR started right up this spring like I had just rode it yesterday. Also a sync of the carbs is in order as they tend to need it every so often. The other advise you received here is also important and checking the carb diaphrams for pin holes is fairly easy as you dont have to remove the carbs from the bike to do it. Just be mindful of the springs and how the diaphrams when in. Hope that helps you. Rick F.

getting the axle out is the biggest issue with dropping the rear wheel assemble. You need to remove the bags for that but you might be able to leave the racks for them in place. With the axle out the rear rotor might be able to clear once it is removed from the rotor. Another thought is to install Progressive fork springs and get some plates to remove the anti-dive solenoids on the lower forks. http://www.fastfromthepast.com/fork-anti-dive-bypass/yamaha-anti-dive-bypass I have my anti-dives disconnect on my 89 VR as I have the Progressive fork springs and I plan on getting some block off plates and installing them next time I swap out my fork oil. By the way your lowers look great. Good job. Rick F.