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Break out the wiring diagram and start testing the circuit to see if you have power anywhere along it. I believe there is a connector under the seat that might be a good place to start. Also make sure the fuse is tight in the holders as they do get loose over time. A lot of us have upgraded to the newer fuse panels. Good luck. Rick F.

This picture appears to be of a screw that is holding the carb to the rack that keeps the carbs aligned. I would remove all of the other screws with an impact driver as that will loosen the screws and they can be very tight with age. Once you have the other carbs off of the rack, I would use a drill and and easyout to remove what is left of the screw. Hope this helps. Rick F.

It appears that the first opportunity to ride the new Venture is Star Days at Treasure Island Casino in Minnesota. That listing states be one of the first to ride the new Venture and list it as one of the bikes. Guess I will have to get my name in the hat and get a ride on one not that I am thinking of getting one as my VR is doing just fine for me. Rick F.

These were used ones and seems to me to offer more support and more comfortable on a long trip. I also find that there is more lower back support to were I dont use the drivers backrest much either. I found the MKII seats to bother my inner tights on a long ride but then I have a skinny boney butt also. Rick F.

On occasion you can find an aftermarket seat on ebay for the 1st gens. I was able to pick up a Corbin with drivers backrest for about $140 shipped to my door. I had a buddy get one for $75 for his Corbin. Both of us like these seats better then the stock ones and they do seem to sit just a bit lower then the factory one and the passenger seat is flat so the passenger isnt sliding forward on long rides. Rick F.

Not sure on that is that will make a big difference or not.. One thing to make sure if is that the replacement LED will fit in the location you are planning as some of these tower LED bulbs are taller then a regular bulb and you might have clearance issues. Good Luck Rick F.

I have a set of JIS screwdrivers and it is all I use on my VR now and love them. I find that I dont damage the heads of the screws and am able to get a lot of them to break free by just keeping downward pressure on them as I twist the driver. I have even got to the point of using the on Phillips screws also when I have a stubborn one and I can usually break it free 90% of the time. I know they are getting harder to get from some of the things but are worth the search for in my opinion.. Rick F.

I did some checking over the weekend and I was wrong in what I thought about the brake calipers on the front of my 89 VR. The left side uses 32mm caliper pistons and the right side use 34mm caliper pistons. Once I figured this out, I ordered the rear caliper kit that is listed on Brakecrafters website as the rear kit he list will also work for the right front caliper which is the one that is leaking on my bike. I also forward the information to Mark and asked if he can produce a kit for the 32mm calipers in the near future. Looking up the part numbers on the yamaha parts fiche, I notice the 32mm calipers where used on Yamaha motorcycles from 1986-2014 and the 34mm calipers where used from 1986-2001, so there is a lot of bikes out there that can use these kits. Rick F.

I know there has been some confusion on what seals are needed to rebuild the stock calipers on the 86-93, ie MKII Ventures. I thought I would document it so there would be no confusion least for me.. The right front caliper and the rear caliper both use part # 1KT-25803-00 for their seals. It takes 2 of these part numbers to rebuild one caliper as the package only contains 2 pressure seals and 2 dust guide seals and a small tube of red grease. It stands to reason they would be the same since they are linked together from the factory. The left front caliper uses part # 1NL-W0047-00 for its seals. Again it take 2 of these part numbers to rebuild one caliper as the package only contains 2 pressure seals and 2 dust guide seals and a small tube of red grease. The red grease is used on the seals during insertion of the piston to help them slide in easier and not damage the seals. I hope this helps to clear things up a bit as the parts fiche or service manual is not the best in showing what is needed for which caliper. Rick F.

Yes it does go to the canceling unit, least on the 86-93 MKII as that is the only manual I have to check with. But I would venture to guess that it is that way on the 83-85 MKI also. Rick F.

Yes I am.. you are 100%... Rick F.

It depends on your phone also. I have a Galaxy phone and I can block calls going to it if they keep calling me. Also anytime you hear clicking when you first answer, just hang up as it is the call being routed to an agent. For my home phone service I have comcast for phone service and I also have a Panasonic answering machine that announces who is calling. If it isnt someone I know or expect to call me it always goes to the answering machine and or course they never leave a message. If I get more then a couple calls from them, I can go into my comcast account and block that number there from calling again. Now the big issue is that it is very easy to spoof a phone number in a phone system. You can enter just about any number in there you want and that is what is sent out by the outgoing call for caller ID to use. We do it a lot of large businesses that dont want an company extension number to appear but maybe just the company's main phone number. So most of the spammers just change their outgoing phone numbers every so often to get around a lot of the blocks. Rick F.

That item is the Speedometer sensor what is use to detect how fast you are moving. It appears to be a reed switch that makes and breaks the circuit to ground. The speedometer have a magnet in it that is closing the circuit and the cruise control unit is counting the pulses to determine speed. This enters the cruise control unit on the white/green wire. Rick F.

I agree with Bluesky, I am wondering if the rebuilder uses the proper float needle and seat for the 84. I have no experience with the 83-85 carbs, but I do know that the 83-85s used a different float and float needle and seat assemble then the 86-93 VR. It could be possible that he used the wrong ones for your bike. The correct one is still available from Yamaha parts but the actual float is not. Here is a link to a picture of what you needle and seat should look like. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-22U-14190-15-00.html Does this appear to be like the ones you have in your carbs now? If they arent the same, does it have a wire loop on the end of the float needle then he used 86-93 assemble and I dont think it will work properly.. I dont know of any rebuilders of carbs, but maybe someone who is more knowledgeable on these will have some better suggestions and ideas. Good Luck and dont give up.. Rick F.

I was rereading the thread and wonder, do you ever see the "ON" light on when you push the power button? I was looking over the service manual for the cruise control system and thought we should verify the lights for the housing. You will need to remove the housing with the lights and power switch first and check to make sure the lights are in the correct location. The on light, which is blue light, has black wire connected to it, the set light, green light, has blue/black wire and the resume light, amber light, has a blue/green wire connected to it. It appears that power is supplied to the lights by a red/blue wire. I would check and make sure that the light bulbs are correctly plugged into their sockets so we know that we are seeing the correct lights lite. The set and resume light are routed to the cruise control unit which is that activates them by grounding the circuit. I would also remove the wire connector from the cruise control unit and ohm out the wires for the set and resume switch on the handle bar. Connect on lead to the red/blue wire and the other lead to the green/white and see if you have an open or closed circuit. If it is an open, slide the to the set side of the switch and see what happens. It should show a closed/short/ 0 ohm, if not sounds like a issue with the switch or wires for it. Move the lead from the green/white over to the green/blue wire and see if you have an open, if you do slide the switch over to the resume/accel position and see if it is now a closed/shorted indicator. I would also test the cancel button per the instructions on page 7-147 of the service manual. What you are looking for is 12 volts between the black/red and black wires and then pushing the cancel button, the voltages drops to 0 volts. I am thinking we just need to start back at the beginning and see if we have missed anything. Let us know what you find out and good luck. Rick F.

Looking over my RLU wires, I think the Green/White should be the Green/Red. My RLU doesn't have the G/W in its wiring harness but it does have a G/R. My high beams indicator does function properly and I dont have any alarms showing on the computer panel either. Also looking closing at the picture in post #1 of this tread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit , you can tell he actually used the Green/Red. Try that and see if that makes a difference for you. So connect the wires like this: Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together. Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together Tie Black + Light Green together Hope that helps. Rick F.

I am going by memory here, but I recall pushing the power button and all the lights coming on and then just the ON light is shining green. Pushing the set button cause the SET light, Blue light, to come on also and stays on the whole time the cruise is set and working. Hitting the brakes, clutch or cancel button, causes the amber resume light to come on with the blue set light going out. Once the resume button it pressed, the amber light is out and the blue light is back on. I havent got my VR up and running at the moment to verify all of this but maybe someone can double check for us and correct anything stated here that isnt correct. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Yes you do set the float level close when rebuilding the carbs, it can be done a couple of different ways and yes it should be part of his rebuild. I would ask him just what he did in rebuilding the carbs, what parts where replaced and such. Did he replace the float needle seats or just polish them clean. Few of questions for you. 1) Does the bike leak any fuel after running if you put it on the center stand and let it idle for a while? 2) How is the bike running when are riding around and how it is in stop and go traffic? 3) Does it leak fuel when on the side stand or the center stand or both? The issue to me sounds more like why is the fuel pump still running when you turn off the engine. I believe there is a relay that energizes the relay and maybe it is sticking a bit. The relay is located up in the fairing on the right side of the bike and looks to be accessible by removing the headlight. I would recommend checking the service manual for testing procedures. There is a link to the 83-85 service manual in the tech section if you dont have one. If the only time it leaks fuel is when you turn it off then I would look at the fuel pump relay for sure. The pump should not be running when the engine is off. Let us know what you find out if you would. Good luck. Rick F.

There is another link out there with just cutting off the connector from the RLU and soldering some of the wires together and that will get rid of the headlight warning light also. I did that to mine when I added my LED headlight and that did the trick of killing the warning light. Check post #17 is this thread.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale/page2&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit Rick F.

Casey,. We found that we needed to have the dwell set to auto with the Ignitech system to make the tach not bounce around. Once I set mine to auto, never had an issue with the tach again. Sounds like a nice ride to me. Rick F.

The seat actually comes out from the top so you need to push it up NOT pull it down. You will need to remove the plug that is in the carburetor above the seat. I had a friend that was able to push the seat up and force the plug out but this damaged the filter and I have heard of other that drill a hole and use a small self tapping screw inserted into the hole to pull out the plug. The plug is held in by an o-ring is all as is the float needle seat. Once the plug is out just push up from the float bowl on the seat and it should pop out with the filter attached to the top of the seat. You can get replacement filters from Yamaha and I have seen them available from other suppliers, but if you order a new needle seat from Yamaha, it comes with the filter attached to the seat already. Here is a link to a part fiche for the 89 VR carbs. Check out items 34, 35, 36, & 37 for the items mentioned in the post.. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f835f870022108d6576a/carburetor-non-california-model Hope this helps and good luck Rick F.

Have you set the slow speed jets and synced the carbs yet? I would do that and check the plugs for spark before throwing any money at it myself. Good Luck Rick F.

I have a 4 yo neighbor girl that wants to go for a ride. So far we have "ridden" from the garage to the drive way and she loves it.. Rick F.

These carbs are sensitive to sync and balance. But I would also verify you are getting spark on all the spark plugs too. Also depending on the mileage it might be time to set the valves also as that can affect how it run. Since you stated you rebuilt the carbs, I am assuming that verified the diaphragms are hole free and that the pilot jet in the jet block is clean and open and that the jet plugs in the bottom of the jet block are very tight. Just some of the things that attribute to a bad running motorcycle.. Let us know what you find out.. Rick F.

Have you check the vacuum pump and the vacuum line to the vacuum activator? The pump is located in the right side of the fairing and the activator is in the left side. The activator is what controls the throttle cable to change speeds. The vacuum line runs a long the front of the fairing to connect the two. It is possible if there is no vacuum, the system will not set and activate. Make sure you are getting a vacuum from the pump and that you see it at the activator end of the line and also check to see if the activator can hold a vacuum also. Also make sure the pump is getting proper power. I would do all of this before changing out the Control unit assemble again. There is a troubleshooting guide in the service manual, least for the 86-93 Ventures and I am sure there is for the 83-85 ones also. Let us know how it is going. Rick F.