RPG
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Everything posted by RPG
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When Yamaha wired the acc. plug, the specs for that circuit stated that the circuit would be limited to 5A and so the appropiate wire for 5A was used. Now if you fuse that circuit to 10a, although the fuse is able to take the 10a that doesn't guarentee that the wire is able. The suggestion about the battery tender connection is good advice. I would follow that advise and fuse it to 10a. I think Cycle Pump are assuming that you are connecting to a 16 guage wired circuit and you are not. Its possibly 20 or 22 guage, I'm not sure.
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The variable resistance of the switch would determine its usefulness. You would want a switch that varied from 0 Ohms (high), to around 4 Ohms (low). If the switch varied up to, say 20 ohms, the amount of adjustment from 0 to 4 would be so slight that the switch would be very difficult to adjust accurately in the 0 to 4 range. The voltage stay constant, by increasing the resistance you lower the amperage and in turn lower the wattage of the item.
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Yes, I have a Utopia backrest and I have the wire run up the bracket and into the pocket on the back of it. If I want to plug in a vest or use the pump I just unzip the pouch and take out the connector to plug it in to either one. Before I had the backrest I used my trailer wire plug to do the same thing, I had a trailer plug and ground clip on my compressor at that time.
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I would not advise doing that. If you look inside the fairing at the back of the cig. style plug you will see that that wire is extremely small and not designed to carry much amperage. If you go to a 10 amp fuse you may melt that wire and risk a fire. That plug is designed to use for items like cell phone chargers etc. low draw items. I cut the cig. stlye plug off of my air pump and put on a connector that matches my elec. vests. If I need air I just plug the pump into the vest connector, connect to my tire then turn on the switch that operates my vest. The vest plug is hooked directly to my battery through a fused relay. Works very well.
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Your choices are all speaker or all headset, you can't separate the two with the installed system. I agree it would be kinda handy if you could though.
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Just get yourself a good quality electric vest and wear any leather jacket you want. My wife loves her electrified jacket liner.Toasty warm at the flip of a switch!!
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110 watt headlight! Wow that must be a bright light, I see why putting it on low beam would make a difference for sure.
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It would be great if a person could buy an after market stator for the Venture that procuced 500 or 600 watts. The Gold Wing folks have a definate advantage here with their 1000+ watts of available power, they can run all the electric clothing and accesories they want and still have lots of power to spare.
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Here's a few other shots to give you a better idea of what I did.
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The container was purchased at Wal-Mart $20.00 and a friend of mine built me the lower frame with the stinger attached $30.00 material. I installed the running/brake and singal lights to the container, its a fairly easy to do project, but their are some fairly nice prebuilt units for sale from different retailers.
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I use a hitch mounted rack. (Their is a picture of it in my pic gallery) We put in all of our rain gear, shoes and jackets, when its to warm to wear them. We've travelled many thousands of miles with it and are very happy with it.
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Keep in mind that approx. 50% of the power producted by the stator is used in the everyday operation of the bike, headlight, tail light, signals, radio, carb heaters, passing lamps, charging battery etc.
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Hard wired with a relay and fused is best. This way takes the load away from the ignition switch. I think the gerbing vest is 70 watts, that would be exceeding the 5 amp cig. circuit with just the vest alone.
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I believe its 360 watts & 30 amps @5000 rpm. I run two vests, electric grips and passing lights, sometimes for hours at a time with no problems.
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Good for you Eric! If I can be of any help don't be shy to ask, just give me a shout, you'll do a great job I'm sure!
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I should have added, my "primary" reason for choosing to electrify my own vests is that I can wire the vest that came with and zippers into my existing jackets. One less article of clothing to keep track of while traveling.
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I think it works out to about $30. per vest to build. Not a big money saver thats for sure. But, just because you can't do it doesn't mean its a bad idea for someone who can. Its a relativily easy project thats kinda fun to do thats all. You got the 100 bucks and lack the desire to try, then go buy!
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Building a heated vest is not for everybody thats for sure, but for people not afraid to try, its kind of a fun project. Nice feeling of accomplishment when, on a cold day you flip the switch and feel the heat warm you up. Its not hard to do but does require a degree of experience with electrical wiring. If your nervous though, go buy a vest, like I said there are some great retail vests out there and not all that expensive.
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At 14v 30 ft. you would be producing 65 watts, for sure to high to run without a thermostat. I use 35 ft. @ 1-ohm per 10 ft. produces 49 watts @ 14V. I use a digital ohm meter and cut the wire to 3.5 ohms before sewing it into the vest. I find this to work very well.
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You are correct, same concept. I prefer to do my own, it allows me to choose the wattage and also how the heat is distributed. There are some great retail vests available if thats your preference.
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Dennis Kirk Online, sell electronic and bimetal controllers. I've made 4 or 5 electric vests, I don't use a controller at all, although I think a controller would be a good idea, I just switch mine off and on as I need it. I have a switch mounted on my res.
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I agree about taking it back to the dealer that installed it, if thats the case. I thought by reading your post that you had installed it yourself (sorry if I misunderstood), if you bought the tire locally then by all means take it back to the retailer and show them.
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I wonder how old that tire is, by that I mean how long ago was it made. It kinda looks like the cracking you see on old rubber. If it was my tire I would bring it up to proper pressure and continue to use it. It might be a good idea to bring it to a reputable tire dealer and get an opinion from them as far as how safe the tire is to use. Running low pressure can quickly cause the tire to cup, but I doubt that would happen in the distances you mentioned. Also check the tire and valve for slow leaks, the pressure you set should maintain itself for quite awhile without having to add. I top my tires up in the spring and normally only check them thru the summer without having to add air.
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Hard wired is best, but I found that if you get a good quaility modulator they are'nt so prone to interference as some of the cheaper ones. The modulator I use is from XM and it seems to work quite well, but does get channel bleeding from FM radio stations at times. Some of the radios now come with the modulator built in so you can easily chose which preference suits you.
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If I could only keep one, my Utopia would be the last to go.
