MasterGuns

A good friend of mine owns an 83 Venture. As most of us with 1st editions, he has a real problem starting his 83 when it is hot. Hell, it does not turn over very well when cold. So today I purchased a starter for him from an 09 Yamaha venture royal star. It is of course a four brush unit and is much newer. I've read here that tthis starter will fit his 83. Is this correct. I plan to upgrade his battery cables to the, and again, please correct me if I am wrong, 8 guage cables. We will have to make our own since I do not see where anyone is fabricating battery cables anymore. However, if anyone has a set of the upgraded cables and is willing to part with them, please let me know. I'll gladly pay to take them off your hands. Semper Fi Herb

From what I read, everyone there was a member of either the Cossacks or the Bandidos.

Route 1 from Danang north to Hai Vahn Pass. Beautiful but deadly.

What a wonderful person she must be. My heart and prayers go out to her for a full and expeditious recovery. Just made a donation.

If it were me facing this issue, I'd just pick up a used good replacement tank off eBay and save myself a lot of grief trying to clean up that mess. You may even find a good clean replacement that comes with the sending unit. Good luck.

Since this is on the left side of the bike, this is the adjustment screw to sync #1 carb to the #2 carb. To get it back into its proper position you will have re-sync your carbs,

Here is the meter I used. Sorry it is up-side-down.

What I'm sayin, is the fastest time either wing turned was mid 13's and the 1/4 miles speed was 95 mph. To get another 40 mph is impossible unless you was on an R1 or FJR. And wing also have a very optimistic speedo.

The only way a GW would do 135 is if you dropped it out of a C-130 at 30,000 ft, then only maybe.

Watching a wing and a 2d edition in a drag race is like watching grass grow.

I made it back home; just put up the scoot and boy am I beat. 1042 miles in just under 16 hours. Tell you about the ride later. Goodnight y'all.

Planning on a SS 1000 at a minimum, leaving home at about 0200 or so this Tuesday morning. When I hit the halfway point for my SS1000 (Sierra Blanca, Tx), if my saddle isn't overly sore, I will continue on to Lordsburg, NM, turn around and head back home. Will divert through Fort Stockton, Tx then head north to Monahans then east on 20 finishing up in Willow Park, Tx; interstate the entire way. Should be a tad over 1500 miles and I have got to do this in less than 36 hours. On a 28 year old bike at that. If I wasn't going through chemo, I'd buy a new bike and take that on this attempt but spending all that money now could be the wrong thing to do. wish me luck

If none of those responding on the thread did not want the risk of living in a mobile home, I can't understand why they ride motorcycles. Wonder which act possesses a higher risk?

LMAO

Cause Phoenix sucks. Just kiddin Vid, I agree with possible corrosion in the hose connection. I'd also replace the O-ring in the drain cock.

Kic, May God bless Sgt. Walker, your daughter and all of those that were part of his life. Respectfully Masterguns USMC Retired Semper Fi

Frank, I want to send you a special "Thank you" for these instructions plus the personal help you gave me over the phone. I now owe you and if ever I can lend you assistance, please ask. The LED headlight install on my 86 is now complete with no CMS warnings and the High Beam indicator works just fine. All I need to do now is go on a test ride but I can tell the LED is a drastic improvement while just parked in the garage; even over the old 60/100 watt Osram I had in it before. Everyone with a standard headlight bulb needs to install a LED.

DuRron, the clutch I replaced was factory with alignment marks on the boss and the plates,yet it was not lined up as the so-called factory repair manual mandates and it still operated without flaw. So much for needing aligned.

Frank, I checked the kit you bought from Cycle Gear and that bulb is very similar in size to the kit I purchased from Advmonster.com. I have two questions if you don't mind. Was there sufficient room for the longer bulb and 2) does the bulb dispense the heat it generates especially being in such a confined space? I have no idea how hot the rear of the bulb get and am concerned it may get so hot that it could melt other wires if it were to come in contact with them. regards

I purchased a LED bulb to replace the standard bulb in my 86. The rear of the bulb will protrude much further back into the fairing than the OEM bulb and assuming I am confident it will physically fit, exactly how must I jumper the CMS to keep the "Headlight" warnings from illuminating. The LED bulb is so much brighter than stock and should be a drastic improvement. I've searched on here but was not able to locate any threads that could help. thanks in advance for assistance anyone will provide.

Just by chance, is your brake light on all the time?

Check #3s slide and diaphragm.

When the rear brake fluid float starts sticking causing the warning light to come and go is the first sign the fluid is getting really bad. Time to change the brake fluid as well as a good clean out of the reservoir.

I just completed installing a new entire clutch assembly including basket and boss. Those were OEM but everything else is Barnett. I also did away with the half friction plate and retaining wire at the advise of a much more knowledgeable lst Edition mechanic than myself. The reason for replacing the entire clutch assembly was due to an annoying rattle that was coming from the clutch. Now that the job is completed the rattle is gone and the clutch operates as it should. Here is my reason for posting. Over the last 30 or so years of me owning numerous 1st editions, I have always read that the friction plates must be installed properly; the two markings lined up with the two marks on the boss or else things wouldn't work properly if at all. Well, when Iremoved the diaphragm springs and stock pressure plate the first thing I noticed was that all the friction plates installed (by whoever) were not even close to being right. Not even two plates where lined up as the instructions say they must be. Yet the clutch operated as it should. The rattle noise I had was a slightly worn basket I suppose. Any comments from anyone on the improper installation of the friction plates and why no negative impact on the operation of the clutch? I also would like to add that none of the Barnett friction plates had any markings at all. So what's up with that?

Maybe soon.