luvmy40

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350471381216?hash=item5199b8e0e0:g:VJ4AAMXQJRhRZZNU We have a couple of these. Don't use them often, but they work well and would fit nicely under a half shell.

Yes, you would still be able to go through the synchronization procedure with one or more idle jets clogged. As long as the engine stays running at some idle adjacent RPM.

A simple test to see if your problem is idle circuit related would be to open the enricher circuit a bit and see if the throttle response off idle improves.

The idle circuit is the smallest jet that passes fuel when the throttle plate is closed. It is the jet that supplies the fuel to the mixture you are adjusting with the idle mixture screw. Having that mixture too lean could also cause a stumble off idle. The idle mixture needs to be rich enough to keep up with the sudden in rush of air when the throttle plate opens.

Most likely the Twinkie gasket.

I do seem to recall another instance of those screws being broken, but I can't for life of me remember who's bike it was or what the final outcome/cause was determined to be.

No, they definitely did not need to remove these screws to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. Taking the middle drive cover off does make accessing the slave cylinder easier, but it's not absolutely necessary, IIRC.(and I may not!)

We passed this project off to a friend due to other time management obligations, but the engine and carb are definitely Yamaha Virago, 250CC.

I've never worked on the cables with the Cruise Control system, but on the standard, loosen all the adjusters, manually open the carb throttle linkage at the carbs and install the barrel. I think I remember actually installing the cables with the carb bank in place but not mounted to allow a little movement for finageling the cable end into place.

Not sure what "drive pulley" they are speaking of. I've never had a trike conversion on any bike, but a shaft drive does not have a "drive pulley" it has a right angle drive with spline gears.

One guy's thoughts on this subject: You don't need to actively think about counter steering to ride under normal circumstances. It's just a natural function of steering a two wheeler at speed. In fact, if you try to NOT counter steer at any speed over, say 10(maybe 15)MPH you'll wind up droping the bike or running head on into the obstacle you may be trying to avoid. Grokking the physics of counter steering becomes critical in the OH $#*%! instances where the natural reaction is to turn away from danger when you actualy need to "turn toward" the danger by agressively counter steering.

+1000 on the pillow top seat! My RSV had a Mustang 2 up seat when I got it. Hard as a rock and slick as goose *&%$. It did look great... @RDawson, did you put it on your ride?

I always used a wooden hammer handle to pop the carbs up off the intake boots.

Congratulations! Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it! Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive. BTW,

Getting the slide and diaphragm out is easy. Inspect the suspect diaphragm for pin holes/tears. If it looks good, inspect the slide for rough spots and cracks. If that looks good, put it all back together and synchronize the carbs. Then see what you have.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/3LD-1490H-00-00?ref=82769654b20450c9f29fa9ce0c0e1ec6f5f4c930 https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1987/xvz13t/carburetor Assy(Part)#13

Aren't there AGM specific tenders available now?

Progressive does make springs for the front end. They work well and negate the need for air if installed properly. I have no idea on the rear shock. Is the rear shock seal bad or is it the compressor system that is fried? You could probably just use a schrader valve and get rid of the CLASS system.

Larry, Any chance I could order one of your RSV lift adapters with the legs for my '06 RSV? Rich Schaefer (330)651-2779

A hanging throttle is most likely a synchronization issue. I suppose it could also be a bad coast diaphragm, but I have no first hand experience with that particular problem.

I haven't had to do any carb work on my '86, but its' pretty tight in there. Maybe try a long locking hemostat? I haven't messed with the cables at all either, so I'm afraid I'm no help there.

RDawson makes a set of pasenger, flip up highway pegs that incorporate a WOLO mount. They are very nice and work perfectly. I just tested my steering lock(first time I ever used it) and works as one would expect. Full lock left on the bars, push the key down and turn left to the lock position and remove the key. I did have to jiggle things a little bit to unlock the steering head. I would try cleaning the lock cylinder and lubing it with some dry graphite.

I don't remember the exact location, but the parts diagram shows it to be under the faux tank plastic, mounted on the left side frame rail between the gas fill and the battery box if it is still in it's original position..

I put a pair of Kickers on y '86 and I was not impressed. They were second hand, so that may have been the problem. I changed them out with some no name NIB 4" 3 ways I picked up at a local flea market and they sounded much nicer. I'll probably pick up a pair of the 200W Pyle marine speakers of of Amazon for $35 and install them this winter. Right now, I just have the fade set to front speakers only.

It's a trial and error kind of thing. I'd say setting the throttle boss at about 10 deg. up from parallel to the ground is good starting point.