Rev
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Everything posted by Rev
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Do y'all not experience clutch slippage with the synthetics? Every one I've tired, including Amsoil, Yamalube, Mobil 1, and Rotella, cause me some degree of clutch slippage (with Amsoil causing the least).
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I installed a Stebel air horn last year and worked fine up until last November. All of a sudden, it quit working. It will work if I direct connect it to the battery to test it. Rechecked connections and replaced air horn relay. Still nothing when I hit the horn button. The front horn still works. Any suggestions?
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Already changed the bulb and it still does the same thing. Is there something else I need to check regarding the bulb? Yes, when I unplug the relay, the brake light goes off, but the tail light stays on. I did have the engine changed out a couple of months ago, but I wouldn't think that would effect the wiring since the wiring runs over the frame above the engine.
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I've got a 1999 RSV. The brake light is stuck on. I've disconnected both the front and rear brake switch and the brake light stays on. When I unplug the brake relay, the brake light goes off. I've replaced the front brake switch, the rear brake switch, and the brake relay. The brake light is still stuck on. I've inspected the wiring I can see that's not wrapped up in the front or main wiring harness and see no visible scrapes, cracks, cuts, breaks, etc. Has anybody had or seen this problem before? Suggestions? As always, thanks for your help.
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Thanks for the info. I've got 138,000 miles on mine. I asked the question to check myself to be sure I wasn't going loco. So, I started getting steam out of the thermostat housing. Changed it out and am still getting steam and a leak. Could the O Rings in the thermostat housing not be seeded correctly? Or is something else going on I'm not aware of or missing?
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On a 2nd Gen RSV, how do you know if the water pump is circulating the coolant? Also, when should the radiator fan kick on?
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Thanks for everyone's help. I disassembled clutch. Apparently, either from haste or the heat, I replaced push rod 1 at the incorrect step. Thus, when I went to clutch, push rod 1 and the internal ball came out. I pulled the pressure plate, shove ball and rod in, which was obviously met with great resistance at this point, put the pressure plate back on, sealed it up, and all appears to be well. Now to reattach horn and muffler bolts and take for a test ride. Thanks again. You guys are the greatest. I travel all over the country and find only about 1 in 5 Yamaha dealers have a service department that knows what they're talking about.
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Yes, I replaced the frictiond discs and springs. Basically, everything from the clutch housing unit (or Primary Driven Gear as Yamaha calls it) out, except for the push rods and magnetic ball in the rod.
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5th started slipping then quit working, then 4th did the same, then I had no gears.
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Here's the background. 1999 RSV 2nd gen, 115.000 miles. Orginal clutch. I was going up a mountain, lost 5th gear, downshifted to 4th, lost it, lost all gears by the top of the mountain. Was able to get bike in neutral. Seemed to still shift. Replaced the clutch housing, boss, gears. Started in neutral and put in first gear (as far as I know). Released the clutch to see if bike would go forward. Surged like it was in fifth gear and died. Now clutch lever is locked and will not pull in and can't shift gears. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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I also have a 99 RSV that turned 100K. I had not just a noise, but an obvious top end noise. My mechanic replaced the rear tensioner and chain (valve cover gasket, of course). That took care of it. The mechanic said that the tensioner design allows too much wiggle in the tensioner itself causing it to lock up and not function properly. He said that Yamaha finally corrected this on the 2003 models and beyond. He said I would need to have the front done soon, which I now need to have done about 5K miles after the rear.
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Thanks for the info. I have a few more questions. 1) How does an ignition switch cause this if it's able to start the bike? 2) How often do the ignition switches on these bikes go out? I know this is the second one on this bike. 3) Is there any type of bolt I can use other than the snap off bolt from Yamaha to put on a new ignition switch? Thanks for all your help.
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I have a strange issue with my 1999 RSV (100,000 miles). It seems to be a little bit different than some of the other second gen audio posts. My audio system worked great up until about ten days ago and then it just went out. Checked the fuses, none blown. Two days later, the audio system started working again normal. Two days after that the audio system started acting up again. When I start the bike, the audio and tripometer does not work. The odometer is displayed. If I change the odometer to the tripometer, turn the bike off, turn the bike on again, the audio works for 2 - 20 miles and then goes out and won't come back on. If I stop the bike at this point, with the tripometer displayed, and start the bike again, the tripometer is correct (it doesn't reset itself) and the audio works for 2 -20 miles. I have already split the fairing and taken apart all audio connections, cleaned them, and applied dielectric grease. I have also done the same with the ignition connectors. This has had no effect on the way the audio and tripometer are acting. I do know that the front remote control unit was changed about four years ago. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I've replaced the hoses and nipples you mention and still get the backfiring. Do you have any other suggestions on why this is still occurring?
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I've found the Mobil 1 for motorcycles at most Auto Zone stores and some Advanced Auto Parts stores.
