dna9656

Seems to me that they would offer to provide you with a free unit for your testing, research, and evaluation efforts....Not to mention you have access to who knows how many riders here on this forum and others as well....We should go for a group buy provided that it will cover programing CDs and info for all bikes that the forum membership uses. I have a desk top computer in the garage connected to the internet. With a nice long cord I can use it to program the TCI. I really would rather just BUY the thing ready to go for my application... surely we're not the only crazies running these bikes...I have a 83 AND a 85. So I would need one each....

I agree, lacquer isn't the best choice any more for lots of reasons. The new 2 part paints cure out pretty fast and don't have the disadvantages of lacquer. Lacquer can be pretty hot (softens exposed ABS substrate) so as you have a ABS substrate without a well cured epoxy primer over any exposed ABS substrate I would really recommend staying away from lacquer.

Seal the substrate (the body) with a "sealer" or epoxy primes. I like the epoxy primer best. Once it's FULLY cured it's pretty inert.

Your paint supplier should have a color reader ( I don't know the REAL NAME) for this thing anymore. The jobber cleans a spot off and lays this gadget on the paint and it reads the color and comes up with a recipe to mix it in what ever type paint he sells. If you're not changing colors you'll have to blend the spray paint over the repairs, using this "electric eye" will get you a more exact match than color numbers because of production variances, even new vehicles don't match what the color designers spec'd due to these variances.

here's a pic or 2 of the 83.http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/01313_hDYraE7rWys_600x450.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/bike4.jpg

Picked up another VR today, an 85. A little beat looking, another project. Supposed to run just needs brought back to life. More later! It's a "d" model and it's the 2 tone gray job. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/01717_fMqDWa4j1Dp_600x450.jpg

OK will do! I figured the plugs to need replacing "just because" but hadn't got to it yet. Any recommendations on plugs/brand?

Th battery symbol is the only icon left on after the tests are complete. So it's the battery's lack of a sensor....

Well I got the fuses and bought the battery, I moved all the fuses to the new fuse block, got the label maker and labeled all the fuse sizes and circuit ID. Dang; it looks lust like Yamaha did it! Am about to go hook up the charger. QUOTE=dna9656;807042]First things first: I want to thank all of you that have responded to my posts and PMs! Your input helped me avoid making some mistakes and to do things a better way than I originally thought to do them. I sure hope that doesn't stop! WAY to GO Forum members! Yesterday I installed a 8 circuit fuse block, leaving me with 3 spaces for the other in-line fuses located in the pocket behind the fork tube. So as Yamaha didn't provide a space in the original fuse block for these circuits that are fused in-line; am I too understand they are connected to OPTIONAL equipment as in part of what makes the bike a ROYALE? OR are the fuses I read about in this pocket the "MAIN" 40 amp and the 20 amp fuse on the left and right side (respectively) ? I sawed the ground/accessory bus from the old fuse panel and trimmed the square shaped end of the new fuse block to fit into the old fuse block base; then I screwed the bus to the new block and old base. The new block is secured to the old base at the aft end through the original mounting hole. I found the MAIN fuse (40 amp) located coming off the POS + battery terminal as you all probably know it's a strip of metal but not in a glass tube housed in a plastic box. I also found another fuse in a rubber box (for want of a better word) that carries a spare inside, it's 20 amps. I'd like to move these fuses to the new block for convenience sake Is there any reason that would not be a good idea? I back flushed the carbs as directed here by skydoc_17, put fuel in the tank then I jumped the main (blown) fuse with a 15 amp fuse (just in case) besides I didn't a replacement 40 amp fuse (in any style) turned on the key and the bike came on. The still OPEN bowl drains did their (an effective indicator that the fuel pump still works) job admirably, so after turning the bike off and closing the drains (and a clean up) I turned the bike back on. The computer ran it's test, the CB came on and was scanning channels (no sound) the AM/FM did not come on probably because I had it out when washing the bike and don't have it FULLY re-installed. It did come on at the seller's house...the fuel pump ran filling the bowls, no leaks were noted!!!! So cleaning the bowls did the trick! The right fwd. carb has no drain hose, it looks like it has to have a 90 degree elbow connecting the drain pipe to the hose? Well if it does it's gone. It's awfully crowded back there, is there anyone that got the hose back on that drain without pulling the carbs out? The red WARNING light on the dash flashes? Is this because the battery I'm using has no sensor? The head light and blinkers worked. I didn't take notice of any other lights. She tried to start but while she ran at the seller's house she wouldn't last night. The battery I'm using is older (it came with the 99 road star) and smaller than what is supposed to be in there. I think it's a group 16 VS a group 18. She did give me a very satisfying back fire however! (changed pants and went back to work) I'm headed out to get some fuses and see if I can get the title transferred today. I'll be watching the emails for your very helpful input!

My VIN indeed IS JAY47T004DA000327 and the choke is like the 84 so maybe there was a Owner Initiated Recall.... Just picked up a new battery and I ordered a 40 amp ATO breaker to replace the fuse in the case. I would hate to try to change that fuse (or the cruise control fuse) anywhere much less on the road, in the dark, in a galaxy far, far away. There is a Inter-galactic law that states your vehicle NEVER breaks down in your driveway....

First things first: I want to thank all of you that have responded to my posts and PMs! Your input helped me avoid making some mistakes and to do things a better way than I originally thought to do them. I sure hope that doesn't stop! WAY to GO Forum members! Yesterday I installed a 8 circuit fuse block, leaving me with 3 spaces for the other in-line fuses located in the pocket behind the fork tube. So as Yamaha didn't provide a space in the original fuse block for these circuits that are fused in-line; am I too understand they are connected to OPTIONAL equipment as in part of what makes the bike a ROYALE? OR are the fuses I read about in this pocket the "MAIN" 40 amp and the 20 amp fuse on the left and right side (respectively) ? I sawed the ground/accessory bus from the old fuse panel and trimmed the square shaped end of the new fuse block to fit into the old fuse block base; then I screwed the bus to the new block and old base. The new block is secured to the old base at the aft end through the original mounting hole. I found the MAIN fuse (40 amp) located coming off the POS + battery terminal as you all probably know it's a strip of metal but not in a glass tube housed in a plastic box. I also found another fuse in a rubber box (for want of a better word) that carries a spare inside, it's 20 amps. I'd like to move these fuses to the new block for convenience sake Is there any reason that would not be a good idea? I back flushed the carbs as directed here by skydoc_17, put fuel in the tank then I jumped the main (blown) fuse with a 15 amp fuse (just in case) besides I didn't a replacement 40 amp fuse (in any style) turned on the key and the bike came on. The still OPEN bowl drains did their (an effective indicator that the fuel pump still works) job admirably, so after turning the bike off and closing the drains (and a clean up) I turned the bike back on. The computer ran it's test, the CB came on and was scanning channels (no sound) the AM/FM did not come on probably because I had it out when washing the bike and don't have it FULLY re-installed. It did come on at the seller's house...the fuel pump ran filling the bowls, no leaks were noted!!!! So cleaning the bowls did the trick! The right fwd. carb has no drain hose, it looks like it has to have a 90 degree elbow connecting the drain pipe to the hose? Well if it does it's gone. It's awfully crowded back there, is there anyone that got the hose back on that drain without pulling the carbs out? The red WARNING light on the dash flashes? Is this because the battery I'm using has no sensor? The head light and blinkers worked. I didn't take notice of any other lights. She tried to start but while she ran at the seller's house she wouldn't last night. The battery I'm using is older (it came with the 99 road star) and smaller than what is supposed to be in there. I think it's a group 16 VS a group 18. She did give me a very satisfying back fire however! (changed pants and went back to work) I'm headed out to get some fuses and see if I can get the title transferred today. I'll be watching the emails for your very helpful input!

If you are going to spray paint get a RESPIRATOR with the proper filters. If you're going to sand use your respirator and the proper filter. I cleaned the surface with alcohol, I scuffed the (320 wetordry wet) surface up for tooth, I sprayed epoxy primer on it; 2 double coats. I sanded the resulting orange peel. I used Rustoleum's Black enamel ($8.00? @ Wal-Mart; because the acrylic automotive paint was $104.00 per quart & you have to buy the thinner for it and you SHOULD buy the hardner too) I thinned it with xylene because mineral spirits evaporates too slowly and will give you sags and runs. I bought a can of "Japan Drier" at the Sherwin Williams store after several tries getting runs and sags even with the xylene. Lot of info huh? So the expoxy was a chem. barrier to the problem you guys had, maybe I could have used a sealer (Ditzler 1980s) I don't know. I do know what I did worked. Questions? PM always welcome.

Is this the really bright light I see on bikes and 4 wheel vehicles?

Is this one of those headlights that is so bright that it looks like the bright lights are on?

I have seen JB Weld used is a LOT or applications in my 20 year USAF career, HOWEVER using it in the air stream of the intake system is a little scary to me too. So far as drilling holes to get the JB down in the part to assure a good bond; I'm a painter by trade and we have a standard we call "profile" it's the roughed up surface needed for good paint to substrate bond. We measure it in Mils. 3-5 mils. is good. Having said THAT as to drilling a hole for bonding purposes; the sides of the hole would be too smooth and if it's very deep at all you would have to be sure there was no air under the JB Weld compound. Ever hear about some one in a altitude chamber that has air under a filing in their teeth? The air expands with the lower ambient air pressure and hurts like hell! In your case the metal could expand with heat, any air under the fill could (heat again) expand, and you could have inadequate profile on your glue surfaces and then the engine just sucked up the piece....I would follow the advice you got here OR get a replacement part...better safer than broke down someplace AT night, in a galaxy far, far, away because believe me it won't go South in your driveway.

NICE UNIT!!! Yeah it ain't cheap!

Ok got the carb cleaner at Wal-Mart, less then $1.35 a can for 12 OZ. and it works just good as the $3.00 a can stuff only better cause it's cheaper! I can't find a drain screw black or otherwise. I do not see one in the factory service manual chapter on carb rebuild either. Are they easily accessible while installed? I'm missing 1 drain tube from the right rear carb, I went looking for it down on the engine but no joy. So I connected the battery today and after it's been on the charger for a week it has 6.7 volts and the load tested doesn't even react to the battery. So much for that battery. Speaking of a new battery, do we re-use the battery condition probe in a new conventional battery or just install the resistor that's discussed in the tech section and let it go? Is this why NOTHING happened when the battery is connected and the key is turned? The last time I just touched the - wire to the battery (a fully charged spare I have) and turned the key on it got pretty hot really fast ...today nothing. After pouring it a quart or so of gas into the tank no leaks from the tank (or anywhere else) were observed so that indicated the leak in down stream of the pump I will install a new fuse block this weekend so I will have a more stable fusing situation. Does anyone have a DIAGRAM (vs. a schematic) that is an visual depiction of the wiring (not like a schematic) as we see it on the bike? Comments, input, cautions?

Wire products.com has a ATO (automotive style) fuse block that you can bring in the fees from one side and out the opposite side or another one that is in/out the back and side. 8 circuits, $14.00 plus 6.50 shipping. they also carry all the different types of ATO breakers you could use instead of fuses...they ain't cheap either.

I'm sorry ;I was referring to my 99 Road Star; it has spokes, my VR has cast wheels and uses tubless tires.

What EXCELLENT advice you all have given and helped me avoid a screwing up the fuel system with alcohol! Dang I knew better than that too! I was wondering is there anyone in the Kitsap/Pierce (WA. State) County Area that has tire mounting tools/machine that could help me change the rear tire on my Road Star...I have the tire, probably the only Commander 2 tire 150/80 16 in the country (thank you motorsport.com!) and the tube and rim strip will be here next Friday (Thanks Dennis Kirk!). Everybody here wants way too much to do it. I will be purchasing the tools myself as the $$$ become available, then I will be happy to help those here in need. Haven't done a thing since my last post but go to work. I have BOTH days off this weekend so I hope to chase down the fuel leak and the electrical problems, pretty ambitious huh?

Pretty sure it leaks with engine running but haven't confirmed it yet. Don't know for sure if it's fuel pump related yet and don't know where it's leaking from I do know there was a good puddle directly under the bike...

It's Yamaha's service manual. I got the owner's manual too. I have the top cover off so I can see the battery, air box, and fuel filler neck, and fuse panel. I'm not familiar with the Yamaha Service Manual setup yet, I know I have to work with it until I learn what systems come under which chapter, I'm sure that's my problem. So far I find no chapter dealing with the fuel tank, only the carbs and the fuel pump and that part is in the 84 supplement. If you could give me the chapter and page that would be helpful. I am unfamiliar with the fuel system, I thought the lines would be underneath the tank but from what you say they are not; they run along the sides? I know that whole gallon of gas we put in there sure came out onto the ground in a hurry, I think it was all out before we shut the engine off. I haven't removed the batter or air box, I will do that next to see what I can see. I will have to go to Yamaha's web site and look at the Illustrated Parts Breakdown (IPB) or Exploded View to get the part numbers for the hoses, I'm thinking if 1 is shot they all can't be far behind. I will have to wait checking on the float being stuck because I have a big time electrical issue too. I plan on picking up a gallon or 2 of denatured alcohol at Lowes and with a good, clean dip pan and a strainer I can reuse the alcohol until I find the leak. Looking at the sub-frame motivates me to trouble shoot some more before removing the tank. I spent the rest of the day cleaning the under seat area and steel wooling the chrome. What do you guys think?

Can't find how to remove the fuel tank in the in the service manual; the fuel system in the 84 M/Y doesn't talk about it....

I looked here http://www.farmandfleet.com I can't be sure that's correct, I live on the West coast and it looks like all the stores are on the East side of the country; can you show me the one you refer too please?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gp7ZoEKsL._SX425_.jpg Is this what you're talking about? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-Plastic-Fusion-Adhesive/dp/B000LGT0GI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384732800&sr=8-1&keywords=abs+epoxy%2C+two+part+syringe+type]Super Glue Plastic Fusion Epoxy Adhesive #15277 - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gp7ZoEKsL.@@AMEPARAM@@41Gp7ZoEKsL[/ame]