dna9656

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0225.jpgThe 83's devastating lack of a Schrader valve close to the Ign. Sw.

Here's the compressor on the 83. Note the extension or f the hot wire for the L/H rear blinker; just left of center at the top. I installed a couple more inches of wire using butt connectors so it would stay plugged in! The compressor comes on when you hot wire it. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0228.jpg

Here is the skid plate I found under the motor when I got it under some light. The oil filter cover is abraded away too. I'll post a picture of that later. There is a buzzard turd of a weld under the oil filter, hence the skid plate. I just can't imagine a 1200 CC, 700 lbs. Dirt Bike can you? http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0232.jpg

The CLASS controller is there; I will have to go take off the seat to confirm the whereabouts of the compressor. I don't know if the valve up front is connected to anything yet. One thing is for sure" The PO has no CLASS; High or low.

Thanks all for the info! I haven't got to test the YICS yet, I ran outta steam! But I posted the following on the Venturers site. It's the 83 XVZ12DKC2 The title says 83 but Yamaha says 84. I left the radiator valve in the on pos. so when I changed it the temp gauge worked. I couldn't turn on the cruise because I couldn't find the label on the switch! I went out there and turned it on, the green light on the "meter" comes on along with a little "click" sound from below the battery. I have 2 sets of "remote switches" on the left handle bar, for MUTE and TUNE; I see only one in the owner's manual I wonder what the other is. I don't think that extra one was installed by Yamaha unless they are for the CB? I noticed the 83 does not have the valves to manually pressure up or depressurize the CLASS system, my 1985 model has a valve by the ignition switch, the book also shows on integrated with the "ride firmness" selector; my 85 doesn't have one there. My class shows Error 1, when I plug in the controller from the 85 it shows error 3... I think there must be a bad connection someplace. I know a guy that solders circuit boards for a living; he said he's re-solder all the connections in both controllers and replace the diodes and capacitors in the Ign. module. Anyone have a list of the values of the diodes and caps in the Ign. module? Does anyone have a number for a generic fuel filter that'll work on the 83? That Yamaha filter is too expensive.

It's the 83 XVZ12DKC2 The title says 83 but Yamaha says 84. I put a whole can of Seafoam in the full tank last night. I left the radiator valve in the on pos. so when I changed it the temp gauge worked. I couldn't turn on the cruise because I couldn't find the switch! the markings are all rubbed off! I went out there and turned it on, the green light on the "meter" comes on along with a little "click" sound from below the battery. I have 2 sets of "remote switches" on the left handle bar, for MUTE and TUNE; I see only one in the owner's manual I wonder what the other is. I don't think that extra one was installed by Yamaha unless they are for the CB? I noticed the 83 does not have the valves to manually pressure up or depressurize the CLASS system, my 1985 model has a valve by the ignition switch, the book also shows one integrated with the "ride firmness" selector; the 85 doesn't have one there. My CLASS Controller on the 83 shows Error 1, when I plug in the controller from the 85 it shows error 3... I think there must be a bad connection someplace. I know a guy that solders circuit boards for a living; he said he's re-solder all the connections in both controllers and replace the diodes and capacitors in the Ign. module Anyone have a list of the values of the diodes and caps?

[ Full can went in last night There are 2 screws that come in from the bottom. I have to clean my switch annually. Yeah; I got the screws out, it WON"T come apart FULLY wuzzupwidat? seems it's hung up on the choke lever. I think the sensor is spec'ed just fine, some people just can not deal with the needle getting right up to the red. The Cruise Control light doesn't come on nor can I make it work. It came on the other day; could I have pulled a plug loose up in the fairing? I'll go look... There is a connector on the panel with the lights, if you were messing with the triple trees it is easy to bump it.

The drain valve was "off" good call! The radiator is FULL; how or why I don't know as it's been weeping for weeks.... could it be filling from the overflow? Added Seafoam last night. How does the light control switch housing come apart? I think the Bright/Dim switch needs cleaning... I have a manual control switch for the radiator fan, I have read posts on this before. Is the sensor just not spec'ed correctly or is there other reasons for this? The Cruise Control light doesn't come on nor can I make it work. It came on the other day; could I have pulled a plug loose up in the fairing?

Man O Man what a bike! Went out of the little' hood I live on of connected dead end streets out on some local twistys and up hills/down hills and straight-a-ways. Twist the throttle and before you know it the meter says 85 MPH! Smooth as silk, quiet as flowing oil! The rear brake sucks ; it still has air in it. The front brake had the lever tied back all night, I don't think there's any air in that puppy! Went to the local gas station and put 2 something gallons in it. Drove for I guess 5 or 6 miles and the temp gauge didn't move, now I think it should have considering the load on the motor. It's been weeping out the valve on the front of the radiator a bit so I know it's low but the bottle is still 1/2 full... could I have pulled a connection to the temp gauge apart while fooling with the Ignition wires or around the triple tree? Could low water cause it NOT to sense temp? The motor surges a bit (but not when you crank it) maybe fuel filter? Just where should the choke lever be? It seems to like the choke on a bit rather that off; even when it should have been plenty warmed up not to need any choke.

Man O Man what a bike! Went out of the little' hood I live in of connected dead end streets out to some local twistys and up hills/down hills and straight-a-ways. Twist the throttle and before you know it the meter says 85 MPH! Smooth as silk, quiet as flowing oil! The rear brake sucks; it still has air in it. The front brake had the lever tied back all night, I don't think there's any air in that puppy! Went to the local gas station and put 2 something gallons in it. Drove for I guess 5 or 6 miles and the temp gauge didn't move, now I think it should have considering the load on the motor. Coolant has been weeping out the valve on the front of the radiator a bit so I know it's low but the bottle is still 1/2 full... could I have pulled a connection to the temp gauge apart while fooling with the Ignition wires or around the triple tree? Could low water cause it NOT to sense temp? The motor surges a bit (but not when you get on it so much) maybe fuel filter? Just where should the choke lever be positioned? It seems to like the choke on a bit rather than full off; even when it should have been plenty warmed up not to need any choke IMHO. This is way different than the Road Star, this bike is like a Big easy chair with a 426 Hemi under the:12101: seat cushion!

Mine looks just like yours now only cleaner!

You and Parriehammer are correct! I started her up and looked up there from the bottom along side the l/h fork tube and there it was! a Great big spark, intemitant like just like it should be! I replaced ALL the Ing. wires without taking the fairing off and confirmed with a spare plug that she's firin' on all 4 cylinders which is more than I can say for some of the folks around here including me!

I got the handle wire tied back and I don't know if it'll help or not but I have the pedal held down too! We'll see in the morning! I Know that trick works for the clutch!

I rode the 93 again today. It misses; there is a clicking sound in conjunction with (in sync) with the miss. It's sounds like it's coming from forward and to the left of the battery. Isn't that where the TCI is? What else could make a noise like that? Also I have a GAP between the rear brake caliper BRACKET and the opening of the frame where the axel goes through the frame and the caliper bracket. Is a washer supposed to go here? Yamaha's diagram isn't very clear on this. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/rearwheel.gif They show a washer but not it's relationship to the caliper bracket. I can't realty tell by looking at the 85 VR ;and I don't have the room to be removing the wheel on it right now.

Here is the front end of my 1983 (says on the title) but the M/N is listed in the parts book in year 1984 XVZ12DKC2 Vin JAY47T004DA000237. The 85 is VIN JAY59J001FA001416. Any one know what model it is? (it's a XVZ12DN) As you can clearly see the hyd. line for the Anti Dive unit comes from the BRAKE CALIPER. The A/D units know you're hitting the brakes because you're applying the brakes.... http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0216.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0215.jpg

Where does one locate these stainless steel brakes lines; the apparent Holy Grail of brake performance?

If you look closely at the A/D unit you'll see that there is a brake (type) hose from the banjo bolt on the caliper to the A/D unit. So this tells me there is brake fluid in those units and besides the shop manual said so too. Well SOMEWHERE I read that you bleed the A/D units before the brakes and that makes sense as they are further down stream of the calipers. When you hit the brakes the fluid goes into them and goes through a metering valve (or flows out of one) and dampens or stops the forks from diving.

Well it doesn't take a whole lot of effort to make the front brake handle touch the hand grip but you do have to queeze it. That's a whole lot better than the feeling (none) when I started. The rear brake seems about normal. What I have done so far: I first bled the rear brake, then the left anit dive unit then the left caliper. In turn I bled the front (right) anti dive unit then the front caliper. I'm on my 4th or 5th round now. After reading all the posts about traspped air up in some place I can't even see I'm somewhat concerned that I won't get the air out even with my brake vacuum pump. Any advice would be appreciated!

I have read countless posts on tips to bleed the brakes. I called the local dealer, they are too busy. My question is: What is the YAMAHA method of bleeding? The complete start to finish; assume the guy knows nothing way to bleed the brakes? Then what is the REAL assume the guy knows nothing about bleeding brakes way to do it? I know on cars you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way in. I have a vacuum pump, I think I got the rear/left front brake bled but not sure on the anti dive units. I do know something about bleeding brakes on 4 wheel vehicles. Some posts are written assuming the person needing information knows what the composer of the answer knows so the composer leaves out some information (and leaves some doubt IN) and I get lost. I googled, ehowed, "ask"ed, "Youtube" ed. As far as I can tell it's a big secret.

Did you get a trunk? Is the rack for affixing the trunk to the bike there? I might have a trunk for you. Le tme know.

I'm not THAT familiar with the engine yet. I would have to see it on the parts illustration; maybe you can spot here: http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50042517f8700209bc7880ab/1984-xvz12dkc2-parts and post the page here where you find it shown. I'm certain one of the more experienced guys will help you out.

Cylinder plugs?

On my '83 I got home and went on the net to find this forum and the Venturers forum; BOTH indispensable! I followed instructions for cleaning up the insides of the carbs, put in fresh gas and she started! She's sat outside for the last 2 years in NW Washington weather. Seafoam gas treatment is the sh__!. I used Wal-Mart's carb cleaner too. I have just finished Over hauling the brake calipers, it's easy, it's just way expensive for the seals. On youtube all the videos I saw instruct you to slit the calipers. In the Yamaha manual it says NOT to split the caliper. So after you get the caliper off if you have trouble getting the cups out of the caliper (most use compressed air on the fluid hose inlet) you can fit a grease gun to the cracked open bleeder fitting and pump it full of grease till the cup comes out. after cleaning up the first cup and hole you re-install the cup and then get a "C" clamp and a thin piece of metal. use the metal across the cup and tighten the "C" clamp on to the caliper so the cup is held in the hole. Use the compressed air or grease gun technique to get the other cup out. Clean it all up. I used tooth picks to get the crust out and then OOOO steel wool to finish cleaning up the bores and cups. Install you r rubber rings, then your cups and you're back in business! The Prev. Owner (PO) included a generic set of friction disks for the clutch. After I got the correct engine side cover gasket (can read all about that under my screen name too) I installed my first clutch on a M/C. I replaced the desiccant in the CLASS system from desiccant found in merchandise from department stores. I have fiddled with the CLASS system, the plugs in the wire harness, I replaced the spark plugs and am about to replace the spark plug wires with NAPA bulk ignition wire @.10 a foot. I spend a lot of time with soft brushes and "Super Clean" cleaning up the bike. I removed the rear tire and lubed the drive shaft and rear wheel bearings. I will get to the universal joint that serves the drive shaft this weekend. I hope I don't have to drop the back wheel to do that. You'll find that Yamaha's Service manual will always tell you what to do but seldom HOW to do it. That's when the forums are worth supporting. There's LOTS of brains here so take advantage and share yours too!

Well I overhauled the front brakes today. I used air pressure to get the cups out on all but one cup. I had to use the grease gun to get the last one out. It might be safer, faster, but messier to use the grease gun on the cracked open bleeder valve. It's slower than the air pressure but it's CERTAIN! I found crap and corruption behind them thar cups! I used brake fluid as a cleaning solvent with nylon brushes and wooden tooth picks to get the crust out. Rinsed with isopropyl alcohol then 0000 steel wool to get the last bit out and polish the bores a little. Blew them out with compressed air. Used brake fluid to lube everything and pushed the cups back into the bores. Now I'm waiting for the rear kit to arrive! Thanks to all for the input and advice; as always it's PRICELESS!!! Dna

Engines are available on ebay from time to time. "Mechanic in a can" can clog up radiators too...