dna9656

I always thought that the screws on bikes were made of a softer metal. After all what did the MFR. care? HE wasn't going to take it apart. Like the way car makers build cars; they got every special tool made and can GET them made so when the MFR'S mechanics tell the MFR'S engineers all is workable they don't have guys that make a living doing this in mind. I don't like parts fouled up at all much less from using the wrong tool. You don't use a pipe wrench or a vise grip on nuts and bolts (well not till you have rounded them off using the wrong tool) you don't use the wrong size or type driver in screws if you do the screw head is likely to get fouled. I learned the hard way about Phillips, Reed & Prince, and other so called "Cross point" style screws. I hated the cross point style when I was younger because I never had one that fit! I knew guys that loved them; "Twice the gripping power of slotted style!" "Baloney" I thought; until I got a SET of screwdrivers that had #s 1,2,3,4 Phillips drivers. WOW! what a difference! I haven't yet mastered identifying them but I'm trying. Better to have the right tool, it keeps the parts re-usable and helps to keep our hobby a pleasure instead of a nuisance. The wrong tool leads to busted knuckles too. We should get the proper tool to do a proper job. I just want some JIS bits to use in my bit driver, impact driver, 1/4" ratchets etc. I don't see the advantage in having a whole screwdriver (more$) than a bit...anyone seen any JIS bits? So if you are a professional mechanic you can write the cost off because this is a nessesary business expense so you get a kind of discount through your tax bill.

What are "reserves"? Are you referring to the master cylinder reservoir?

Any instructions on how to re-build the (front and rear) calipers on my XVZ12DKC2? I just found plenty here on the forum about this but any additional advise would be appreciated.

I have a 700lbs. road star. Iy pushes easier but I will be checking the tire pressure.

I will check it in the morning!

Worked on the '83 some more today. I removed and cleaned all the calipers & hardware, re-installed the pads with the calipers' cups fully collapsed into the caliper it self so there wouldn't be any brake drag. I re-installed them one at time and checked the rolling resistance each caliper added to the drag, to see if the bike rolled any easier. Well it did roll a bit easier but not like it had no caliper load at all. The rear wheel spun easily when I re-installed it after greasing the bearings and the drive shaft. The front tire turns freely as well so I don't understand why the bike is so hard to push when there is no caliper drag to speak of. Before anyone asks yes it's in neutral... Is it just a heavy bike? I let it run for a while today, it was too hard to back it out in to the drive to ride it. The carbs DEFINATLY need a tuning; it won't idle even when warm without the choke on somewhat. It seemed to run smoother after it was warm too. I haven't checked those pesky diaphragms yet...

I just read about these; I guess this is why the screws on used bikes are so FUBAR! http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/jis-screwdrivers/

I rode the 83 today for the first time! HORRAY!!! It seems to be missing a little but it hasn't run in a ling time so maybe it just needs to be run... I bought it in Portland Oregon (I live in the Puget Sound area in WA.) after it had sat outside for 2 years. With the help from this and other (Venturerider) forum(s) I got through the drive shaft lube (it was dry) the rear brake flush, installing a new fuse block, stopping the carbs from leaking, installing a new set of clutch disks, going through the swing arm, playing with the CLASS System. What still needs work: The Class System, I have a friend that is trained in solid state repair that is going to go through the control box. The left front brake is "on", heating the rotor up and causing drag. I suppose that will take at least a rebuild kit if not a new(overhauled) caliper. I installed a new 'O' ring in the radiator valve but I think it's still leaking. Does anyone have a spec on that 'O' ring so I can buy one at the auto parts store? I need both right and left forward cowling pieces, and the center piece; the ones in front of the rider's knees. I need a left side engine cover. While my bike has the intercom I really don't care if I get a side cover with the intercom holes in it or not; if I get it working I can make a hole, if not my wife and I have blue tooth equipped helmets; so I really don't care about the radio or the CB for that matter. I haven't looked at the carb diaphragms or sliders yet; sort of afraid to. I have to change the spark plug wires. Any advise on what other systems I should check would be appreciated. It does have a strong dose of Seafoam in the tank of fresh gas. I will post this over at Venturers.com too.

:confused24:Ain't that a little expensive?>

Get a new jack for it. Jacks do get tired. They aren't worth repairing. I got a cherry picker engine hoist that wouldn't hold the load, so I went to HF and bought a replacement cylinder/pump assembly for it. Works fine now and has for 4 years.

Lynn The (locking) safety bar that came with my lift MUST be 3/4"; if THAT puppy bent on some one they must have severely overloaded the lift or got some cheap Chinese steel. I have full confidence in my lift. Now let me tell you a story about HF auto jacks. I bought the 1.5 ton "racing jack" at HF. I used it on the son's 83 Omega (GM A body) that might have weighed in at 3700 lbs. I lifted the front end no problem. Then the lift arms bent enough that the jack couldn't be used. I suppose a case could be made based on the total weight of the car vs. that capacity of the jack BUT the jack lifted the weight. If it was too much for the jack the jack should have NOT lifted the load; there is supposed to be a relief valve in the jack for loads that are too heavy. SO I mentioned it to HF. Their response? : Did you buy the warrantee?" That ain't the GD point! The jack design ISN'T safe!!! It took THREE managers to tell me to bring the jack in and they would replace it. But the design is still unsafe! So I wouldn't buy those GD racing jacks.

I bought Harbor Freights 1,000 lbs. lift in January 2014 and have had all three (2 VRs and a Road Star) of my bikes on it. The bikes are heavy and I'm not as strong as I used to be so I need to make the ramp a little longer (2X) and the front wheel holder leaves much to be desired. This can be rectified with HF's M/C wheel chocks of your choice. It comes fully assembled and it's REALLY heavy. The store loaded mine into my Yukon with a fork lift. You have to add your own hydraulic oil to it. It has a foot pedal pump and a separate pedal to release (let down) the table. It's very stable, it has 2 steel caster wheels that can be raised off the floor immobilizing the lift. The bike is held onto the stand with your tie down straps, there are 4 tie down points. There are 2 rollers on the other end that stay in contact with the floor. When not in use it could be stood up and leaned against a wall in an out of the way corner; just get some help when you do this. I see it being used to wash the bike in the drive and of course for maintenance. The section of deck under the rear wheel is removable so you can get the rear tire out from under the bike. Getting the front tire off will require a small lifting device of some kind between the bike and the deck; in my case I will have to remove the wheel chock I chose but hey how often do you need to do that anyway? Otherwise I have no complaints. If you have a membership in their "Inside Track Club" it's available for $300.00 according to the mailer I got. Well worth the $$$. Beats laying on the ground/floor.

I did find 2 references in my factory service manual talking about gasket dressings; if I'm not mistaken it recommended Yamabond #4 or a suitable sub. for most gaskets.

Of all the diaphragms available for the 1st gens which one should I get?

I just went through all this on my 83, it sat OUTSIDE in the elements for 2 years right after a long road trip. Following the guidance here I cleaned the carbs using wal mart's carb cleaner shot though the drain hose(s) after opening the drains. I did this twice maybe 3X. New plugs, put good gas in her with some Seafoam and hit the starter and she started. a couple of weeks ago I started her and let her run until the temp gauge read in the normal range. I twisted the throttle with good response. I'm going to check the diaphragms and if I find one bad I will replace all. if she doesn't perform well on the road I will THEN re-build the carbs and hope to know the status of the tranny's 2nd gear issues.

I have exchanged several e-mails with this individual. I am either ignorant (totally possible) or I'm not getting my message through. I told him I wanted both the DVDs. I have asked him to bill me through pay pal so I can pay him. I don't know of another way to do that. I keep getting more info about how to pay but no bill. Am I missing something? He tells me his paypal account ID is his email....OK now what?

Any one have a comment or experience with these on 1st gen VRs? http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-AIR-CUT-OFF-VALVE-DIAPHRAGM-KIT-VENTURE-ROYAL-STAR-VMX-1200-V-MAX-XV650-/321096181380?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1984%7CModel%3AVenture+Royale&hash=item4ac2d2e684&vxp=mtr The next link has more parts shown on the bottom of the page. Some come with the slide others are just the rubber, spring and o ring. Can the slide be easily connected to the diaphragm or is this a tricky think to do. What do I need and how do I make that determination? http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-AIR-CUT-OFF-VALVE-DIAPHRAGM-KIT-VENTURE-ROYAL-STAR-VMX-1200-V-MAX-XV650-/321096181380?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1984%7CModel%3AVenture+Royale&hash=item4ac2d2e684&vxp=mtr

When I click on your picture I get a window that says I have to sign in; even though I am already signed it. I can't get around this sign in window regardless of how many times I sign in. I have talked to the admin about it and they say it's my problem, a issue with my bowser. I have no idea how to fix it. Could you please SEND me your pic in a PM?

I went to yamahapartshouse.com and compared the 84 to the 83; this is what I found: The bike has a has a late in the model year date of MFT; it's 10/83. According to the catalog I checked (with the exceptions noted below) The are the same. I'm thinking the difference is grease fittings were added. Part numbers from 83 are below the 84 M/Y. Item 15. Arm, Relay SILVER [26-H2217-A0-13 N/A 41R-2217A-00-35 N/A Changed Item 22. Bush 90386-18115-00 $6.57 4 ea. Changed 90381-18053-00 All the part Numbers are the same. I used the parts catalog located at YamahaPartshouse.com Thanks. Hope I can get a picture soon!

I dis-assembled the swing arm, to install zirc fittings but that didn’t pan out Apparently I have some missing parts; these parts WERE NOT THERE during dis-assembly. When re-assembling the Arm, Relay SILVER P/N [26-H2217-A0-13 AND the Arm 1 P/N 26H-2217M-00-00 (these form the knuckle that connects the frame, shock, and swing arm together) I noticed I was short some parts. I have the parts pictured and the nuts, bolts and washers to connect the large arm to the swing arm. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0197.jpg So in the picture I have 2 covers, thrust with large holes and 4 covers, thrust with small holes. The large ones go on the a large bolt like holding the shock or the arm to the frame. These look like they might be the “Cover,Thrust” they look like dust covers to me. Are they what is referred to as Cover,Thrust? What IS a “Cover, Plate”? A thick washer? I’m missing a LOT of these, and when the “Cover, Thrust” is in place on bolt “34” there isn’t enough bolt left to even think about starting the Nut, Self Locking (Item 36). Does anyone have a PHOTOGRAPH of this assembly so I can confirm what the situation is? Can someone show me a picture of a Washer, plate, a cover, thrust and a cover, dust is?

And SIMPLE TOO!!! If you would make these and shake them down into a handy case I bet you could sell them on e-bay and through other forums. There's nothing like a little spare cash. This is WAY over my head.

A big THANK YOU to all that helped me to understand Yamaha clutches....Does this mean I am in the Clutches of Yamaha engineering?

I have a 1983 VR. I read the tech article on lubing the drive shaft, I got the shaft all cleaned up, and the diff. cleaned and lubed as well. How is the spring load of the shock assembly relieved to allow access to the pivots (to lube) of the swing arm? I think this is what I have to do: With the rear wheel removed use a scissor jack (what I have) under the shock/spring unit and force the spring to compress just enough to remove the bolt holding the end of the assembly to the swing arm. Lower the jack until you can slide the bolt out. No worries about the bike falling over, the center stand will support the bike; you DO have the bike on the center stand right? Remove the pivot shaft(s) and collar(s). CLEAN EVERYTHING. THIS is also a GREAT time to inspect the frame for cracks/damage, condition. Get the article on drilling holes for grease fittings on the arms and related assemblies and install the fittings. I have a drill press!!!! Then re-assemble and grease IAW... How does this sound to the experienced heads here? I got lost in the lubrication of the inner parts of the differential located behind the snap ring. Flew by me like a SR-71.

This is the 85's VIN: JYA59J001FA001416. This is the 83's VIN: JAY47T004D000237. The 83 was originally sold in the land of fruits and nuts. IT is a XVZ12DKC2; Yamaha says the "C" means California model. So it's over the magic number NEENNER, NEENNER, NEENNER! Randy; you must have a photographic memory or take good notes! Yeah the 85 turns pretty easy. Besides the engine being worn out any ideas? What do you think about moving the transmission's internals to the '83?

I have a 83, and an 85. I THINK the engine in the 85 is toast, it sure turns easy with a 1/2" breaker bar; easier than my Briggs and Stratton mini-bike (lawn mower) engine. So with that said... after reading this post I wonder should I mover the 83's engine (after transplanting the 85's transmission internals to the 83 case (that SHOULD WORK SHOULDN"T IT?) to the 85 frame... I know some marine welders, they are some of the best around. I could probably get one to come over and use my MIG to re-enforce the (so far as I know at this writing) still intact frame I have....Does anyone have a drawing of what needs to be done? Showing materials, dimensions, and locations of a engineered fix?