dna9656

To convert to a usable manual class you need only shrader valves that will screw onto the air lines on the bike now. Original valves with the nut and cap would work best IMHO. I obtained a rear shock from a manual system, it has a valve on it, remove and mount that valve onto the existing hose to your rear shock; mount the valve to the ride dampener mounting plate from a non-Royale. Remove the seat and cover from the CLASS compressor, Find and disconnect the line that feeds air to the forks, the fitting will be a right angle fitting. Set this line aside. Remove the compressor (why carry dead weight?) At first I used the right angle fitting because it's crimped onto the line. More on that later. Lift the keeper thingies that holds the line to the frame until your line is loose to the fairing on the left side, snake the line along the fairing beside the battery until the open end is by the key switch. There is a round cover (left side of the ignition switch) there where the valve would be if your bike was not a Royale. Remove the bowl-shaped cover that's around your Ignition switch, you'll find a little "ear" there; this is where the vale goes on non-Royales. Remove the black bracket that provides the ear and the screw hole to hold the "bowl". Screw your second valve onto the end of your line and use the nut to mount the valve through this "ear". I Routed the line over the top center of the fork so it will be under the black bracket. Hopefully you got the valve caps with the valves, air up your system IAW the specs and you're good to go. I used the existing right angle fitting that's crimped onto the line, I replaced the o rings that are used between the hose's threaded end and the valve adapters. Now BEFORE you move the long air line to the front of the bike...Here is a better way but you have to get into the fairing to do this. Remove the long line from the collar it connects to. Put it in the spare parts been after you tag it. There is a short air line on the compressor with non-angled male fittings on each end. Remove it and set it aside. Examine the top of the fork, you'll find there is a collar on the top of each tube, 1 tube has 2 lines connected and 1 tube has 1 line connected. Screw the Schrader valve onto the short line you set aside and screw the other end to the collar that the long line was connected to. I think it's on the left side. Mount the valve to the black bracket and re-install that and tighten IAW the torque specs. Re-install the bowl like cover, snap the screw's cover back in place and air it up IAW the specs.

I wouldn't know Neil; I had a Royale in '96 that had an Inop CLASS and the 2 I have now have NO CLASS. HAHAHAHA

Found what I think is the + 12VDC for the "12 volt convenience outlet" RIGHT NEXT to the ground wire that's connected to the shell on the "12 volt convenience outlet". "Well (I thought); THAT explains why anything plugged in there doesn't work." So I got the LONG curved needle nose pliers out and plugged it in. Cool. So later on I start the bike and suddenly I'm outta gas....the gauge indicates empty...red flashing light too. Taking a guess I pulled the wire off the "12 volt convenience outlet" and now I got a tank full indicated. So either this is a sneaky way to get free gas or there is a short or crossed wire someplace? Replace the "12 volt convenience outlet" is my first choice, any other ideas?

The link connects to an offer for "AGT 10x 194 168 2825 5-SMD White High Power LED Car Lights Bulb". So you get 10 194 style replacement 'bulbs" AND 10 168 style replacement 'bulbs' is that right? The 194s (accd. to the reviews) may not fit so well in some cars. So much for "Advanced German Engineering"... anyway isn't the 168 an old style bayonet (has 2 offset studs you push and turn to set the light) base? If so how does a 194 fit a 168 (or vise versa) fit? Are they the same base? Could you post your list of LEDS used on your 83 please? I'm sure it would be most helpful to us all! Tell us more about your experience with the LEDs please. .

You can use the regulator on your compressor to control the amount of pressure that's delivered to your air hose. If you can't get the regulator easily or if you want really good control over the pressure there are several small IN-LINE regulators that you can insert between the your air hose and air chuck. These in line regulators are made to be fitted to spray guns, they have a control knob and a gauge. CAUTION: Do NOT confuse a regulator with a restrictor. A regulator regulates the pressure through a diaphragm and there is a gauge so you know what the pressure it. A restrictor DOES NOT have a gauge or a diaphragm; it only has a vale to control VOLUME or air. It controls pressure (after a fashion) more suitable for the spray guys they were designed for. When the trigger is squeezed on the spray gun there is an initial BURST or PRESUURE then the volume feature controls the volume therefore the pressure but there is no gauge and no diaphragm. So Set the regulator to the pressure you need and service your air suspension system, confirm with a GOOD gauge, you'll need on that goes to 80 or more lbs.

I know a guy that will be joining the forums soon who is a O ring GURU! He ahs a date base that tells you ALL about o rings, theoretical size, actual size, type (there are 2 types type 1 and type 2 (how strange) So we'll get this o ring situation sorted out soon.

It looks pretty good, a very slight widening of the "ears" on the frame, I learned that you can't bent the "ears" on the stand very far. Don't ask.... I'm taking the now broken leg to a guy I know to see if we can use it to extend the one I'm using now OR drill a couple holes in the foot of the good stand and screw a 1.5" piece of some kind of stock on to it, formed to look like the original foot. I like that solution best, I have all I need except the stock. Right now I have a scrap of 2"X4" tethered to the bike with weed whacker string and bungeed to the handle above the tape player, when I park I'll get off, put the block under the stand, when I ride I'll warm the motor, get on the bike, stand it up, pull up the block, roll my weed whacker tether around the block of wood and bungee it back to the handle located above the tape player! How smart! Cant spell ingenius.... !

I don't understand why you would want to increase the lean. It's ALL I can do to stand the bike up from the angle it's at now. I need the bike closer to vertical so it's less far to get the bike up. I run max pressure on the suspension, I will try the MEDIUM pressure today. Thanks! Also I heard about running a lower profile tire size to lower the bike a bit; that's sounds like a good idea but you have to watch your speedo because it'll read high...I wish I wrote the size down....The bolt hole on the side stand is striped, there is a lock nut on the bolt that's in good shape though. Nothing there is bent; I just cleaned and lubed the thing!

I'm 5'7", I wear 30" inseam pants. Standing the bike up when straddling the seat is hard for me to do. Is there a LONGER kickstand available that would hold the bike a little closer to the vertical available? Can I weld an extension to the stand? Is the kick stand made of forged steel (I don't know if forged steel can be safely welded...) or steel that can be easily welded?

I was at my local dealer yesterday inquiring about the O rings in the plastic elbow connecting the water pump t the t-stat housing. He says they normally stock them (that tells me they are used on something build in the last 3 years) but they were out. I could bring them in and he could match them up to his generic supply. Well If I'm not mistaken I seem to remember that there is a really wide o ring on that elbow and he didn't have anything like that in his collection. I'm thinking of getting ALL the o rings for that water junction (t-stat, elbow, pipe) so I have to do this only 1 time.

Any idea where the cruise control junction box is located in the parts book?

I couldn't get one cable out of the housing to even get at it. Guess I'll have to try some more. Thanks!

Yes she's got cruise, the light comes on, I set it and the speed creeps down REALLY slow, so slow that I can't tell if the it's the throttle cables or a weak cruise control, so I thought I would start with the cables. The throttle creeps down when the cruise is off too. Heck it might be a disconnected vacuum as well! I have one new cable on hand. I noticed a very frayed cable on the 85 and ordered one off ebay, it's the handle bar cable. P/N 41V-26312-00-00 Cable, Throttle 2. The other is 41V-26311-00-00 called Throttle 1. Too bad they couldn't use the same cable in all 4 locations. Yamaha does spec this cable for nearly all the XVZs 1st and 2nd Gens.

Neil; It doesn't HANG up like a notch, when the rotate the throttle back down it's like the springs on the throttle shafts are pulling the throttle cable but there is gunk in the cable slowing it's travel. I bought one of those cable lube things that's supposed to direct the lube down into the sleeve of the cable. All it did was make a mess on the Road Star and I can't get it on the return cable of the '83. I tried dripping the lube down the sleeve, I had good success with the PULL cable but I couldn't get the return cable out of the housing to get the drips down the sleeve. I think I may have to pull the cable and lube it from the carb end...

Thank you Rasndy! You are so good! So I just got back from a 50 mile trip. This is not a motorcycle, it's fighter jet that flys really low! The throttle is slow returning to idle, I lubed one cable (weeks ago)till the oil ran out down at the carbs but the other was impossible to get at; any suggestions? I hosed down the springs on the throttle shafts on the carbs with WD-40 a few weeks ago figuring they too were gummed up. The L/H switch housing (horn, blinker, bright light) is rotating on the handle bar; the screws are tight, any thoughts on this? I put some anti freeze in it figuring it wasn't completly full, yes I did it with the engine running... it used about a half tank of gas; that seems a little too much; I figured about 200 miles per tank? That's what my 16 Road Star gets with 2 cylinders...maybe it was that 85 mph thing...ZOOM-ZOOM!

All; Thanks for the input and ideas. It's been so long since I rode my 1st Venture (1996) that I really don't remember what I should be getting performance wise. I have no idea where these pilot jetting adjustment screws are on the carbs, I located the idle speed screws by experimentation; something inside me tells me I should avoid doing.... Other issues: Does the Venture windshield normally glare real bad in the rain like it did last night? I'm installing more overhead lighting in the shop this afternoon. I can't see much of anything on the bike without a drop light and it seems the d--n is thing is in the line of sight or right in my eyes! I currently have 12 4' fluorescent twin tube fixtures in my 24'X36' shop, I'm adding 12 more of the skinny ones as I'm told the fat one are going away. So far I have 2 fixtures up and I'm not impressed. Maybe then I can see! SUNLIGHT!!!

I rode the 83 last night. Rainy with increasable glare form the windshield. Turned around and went back home! While riding the bike ran at 2500 RPM at 45 MPH. 3000 RPM at 55 or 60 I can't remember which. When accelerating there were times when the bike just "came on" a sudden burst of power; then back to what it was. TCI issues? When I first started it under a little choke it did this too (at idle) then smoothed out as it warmed up. The idle got too high even after opening the choke so I backed off the idle speed a little, now of course it's too low out on the street but I can bump that back up a little. So are these speeds/RPMs typical? Am I producing the right amount of power/speed vs rpms? My headlight (H4?) seems dim, I'm replacing that as well as cleaning the inside of the lens. I have a new bulb too. I got the CLASS modified without too much trouble. I tried to use the mounting plate for the rear cylinder that has a hole for the shrader valve with the Yamaha shock but the set up is different so I left the dampen valve in place and the shrader valve is now just under the seat on the left side. The front forks.. well I removed the banjo bolt /air hose from the compressor assembly and screwed the shrader valve from the extra shock/spring unit I have to the banjo bolt and shot the max allowable air into it, measured the air and it's holding the pressure as is the rear shock as well. The PO told me this bike sat for 2 years, so I didn't expect to find any PSI when I checked for air pressure in the rear suspension. I for over 20 PSI, AND when I cracked the line for the front fork I got a HISS of air from it as well! I think this speaks VERY WELL to the pressure holding capabilities of the system! Way to go Yamaha! The bike's suspension rode nicely last night. I hope some one can give me some advice concerning the engine's performance!

Ok... I got a rear spring/shock from eBay; looks like the one shown in Yamaha's 84, 87, & 92 year parts catalogs (I think that covers the 1st and 2nd gen bikes) so I don't really know what the different years look like. I didn't really pay attention to what was installed on my bike when I had the rear wheel off. The illustration of the shock is the same for all THESE (84,87, & 92) years; a bellows covered polished cylinder, no visible spring, an aluminum top. I did not read any descriptions of the shocks in the catalogs. Yamaha didn't spend the money to update the illustrations in the parts catalogs as the years went by. I learned that you can't go by what the sellers in EBay say they have, at least with starters and shocks. I have a shock on the XVZ12DKC2 (M/N found only in the 84 parts catalog) that has a RED exposed spring. I got one from eBay that has a bellows on covering a huge polished chrome cylinder. It's apparently non-functional (I got a refund for it) the gears in the dampener control have broken teeth. There is oil in the pneumatic fill hose and I can't get any air though this hose in to shock. I have seen shocks with exposed BLACK springs ONLY on EBay, I have seen springs (only a coil spring) offered for XVZs as well. I apologize for any confusion I caused.

The shock/spring assembly says YAMAHA on it and it has a hose connected to it that leads to the on-board compressor so I think it's a 2nd gen sock spring assembly. I have the parts to modify the forks for manual airing up and WILL have the parts or the rear soon. I THINK I'll be able to ride it sometime next week. I got the title transferred and the registration completed this AM so I can test ride it legally.

You guys are amazing! Do we have something in the library that puts all this into some sort of resource? Is there an interchange for motorcycles like Hollander is for cars etc.? If we do this as we go along it'll be a LOT easier than sorting through mountains of posts...

I'm sure we have all noticed that when you can buy an o ring by application you'll (almost) never see it's specifications in common parts books. This is done so we have to get the rings from OEM sources; i.e. pay a higher price. O rings are really cheap but how do you measure a flexible ring with accuracy? How critical is accuracy? I can't just go out and buy o rings till I find one that fits, and what about the material? That's important too, the ring has to stand up to what ever it's exposed to... I'm sure we have some one here who knows the tech side of o rings... Maybe we should start a data base here in the library. Application, size and material, and maybe a source be it internet or retail. I think it's robbery to pay the dealer price for o rings...

Like the man said o rings have LOTS or parameters like degree of squish along with diameter, width and thickness. All very tricky.

we'll be findin' all that out this week with pics! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and pics! I have parts for the front forks on the way from EBay. When I last checked there were no controllers on eBay...

EPIPHANY I just had one! My '83 (though it's an 84) XVZ12DKC2 is a Royale. When I had the rear wheel off I didn't really pay attention to the air shock back there. Now that I have an original equipment one on my bench I notice the one on the bike is different. I haven't taken the wheel off yet to be sure. It has an exposed RED coil spring on it. So this tells me it's NOT original equipment? I noticed on the 2nd gen that the spring is exposed (shocks offered for sale on EBay) So can you guys tell me what it is? Is this shock connected to the CLASS?

Got the 4 brush starter installed with the upgrade cabling to include the ground wire from the battery - to without removing the radiator. On re-assembly I cleaned and lightly greased the starter is all the appropriate places... I Disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the hose that runs down the L/H side to the by-pass valve/pipe assembly. 3. Remove all other hoses on the by-pass assembly. 3. Remove screw that holds clamp on by-pass assembly and the T-stat (on the right side of the T-stat) and the screw on the right side of the T-stat. 4. Remove by-pass vale/piping assembly. 5. Using a block of wood GENTLY tap the T-stat housing off and away from the plastic elbow that leads into the water pump. Take the T-stat assembly away from the engine. 6. GENTLY remove (twist) the plastic elbow out of the water pump outlet. 7. Remove "HOT" wire from starter. 8. Remove 2 screws that hold the starter to the block. 9. Clean all areas, clean areas where the starter sits in the hole in the block, clean the starter up, clean up the drain assembly, clean anything and all things with in a 6" radius of the starter. Follow the factory service manual or the text you have.