dna9656

The face and back of valves are so clean it's amazing. I will get a valve open to use the shop vac, good thinking!

Can you expand on what you're saying a little more? "when it wont turn over anymore find cyl at top its your problem" ? I don't understand this sentence.

That you found anything on the 'net referring to a 3.5 (I mean the 2007 3.5 for a JS (front wheel drive) platform car) is amazing to me! Most Youtubes, forums, and general info, deal with the rear wheel drive version which (in spite of what you may read) IS DIFFERENT than the front wheel drive edition. I know.... I own one. An engine (the hemi you mention) that would "DROP A VALVE SEAT" because it's hot or any other reason is a grenade waiting to explode! I am just guessing but I suppose they put hardened seats in there because of the un-leaded gas? Heads made in the US have had induction hardened valve seats since 1968 or so; way before you and I ever HEARD or un-leaded gas. Chrysler's engineering used to be straight forward, loaded with common sense. I mean ONE water pump for every engine on the road, 4 bolts and it's off! It matters not if it was a 6 banger or a 440 monster it took the same water pump and points (so far as I know) it was SO cool to learn about Chrysler and it's philosophy towards parts fleet wise. Now it's as bad as Ford.

Originally Posted by dna9656 . So I loosened the cam caps releasing valve spring tension on the valves, the valves no longer open; they are all closed. If you released "valve spring tension" the valves would drop and hit the pistons. It still sounds to me like you have something laying on top of a piston or you may have driven it into the head and it is stuck there. It sounds like you have narrowed it down to the cylinders that it may be. When it stops, is it a distinct clunk that would be metal to metal? I feel for you. Many years ago I was rebuilding the carburetor on a neighbor's truck and dropped a small screw down the intake and ended up having to remove the head to get it out. RandyA __________________ Ride as though you are invisible, not invincible. http://banners.wunderground.com/banner/gizmotimetempbig_both/language/www/US/TN/Johnson_City.gif I guess I didn't write my description clearly. This engine is a overhead cam engine. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/cid_6CA797E509BC4DAABB286E91E749F3BCdnaPC.png I should have explained it better. I meant that when removing the rocker arm the spring tension on the CAM is gone allowing the cam to spin freely and the valves are in their respective seats, out of the way. They all LOOK to be the same height relative to the head and each other. There was no metallic clang, the forces involved when the crank was turning was provided by my slow, weak arm turning the crank slowly with a 18mm combination wrench, no sound at all; the crank just stopped rotating. There is no way to turn the crank without re-setting the wrench 5 or 6 times to get one revolution so no speed was involved. No slamming occurred during the making of this mess. I looked around a lot with the HF camera and haven't seen any hardware in any cylinder so far but I am still learning how to rotate the camera; you have to rotate the entire camera assembly screen and all to get a panoramic view. The lens is NOT a fisheye type nor can you "aim" or manipulate the lens like you would your eyeball. It sees just like a standard camera, you have to move the entire thing to change the image. I hadn't considered something being stuck to the roof (head); while that is certainly possible I really wasn't spinning the crank with a lot of force, just enough to move it around, there is NO room between the "front" of the motor and the fender, just about 3 or 4 inches. Down below looking over the brake rotor you get to see the crank snout and from there it can be turned less then 90 degress at a time but it's awkward and that too would be a slow job because it's even more awkward than doing it from the top.

This is the way it went down: I got GREAT answers from Robert on "just answers.com on the Chrysler's timing marks not lining up IAW the guidance given in the FSM (factory Service Manual) and the Haynes. He told me 3.5's timing (t-marks) marks aren't machined right and that 1/2 tooth to the mark was good. OK. Inserted new properly gapped spark plugs, installed them just a 1/2 turn of the threads. I installed the belt and was 1 tooth off. I wanted the 1/2 tooth. So rotated the fwd. cam to a position where there was slack to wrap around the aft cam; and when I pulled the slack out it would be in time. I pulled the belt around the aft cam to where the tensioner would eliminate the slack and be in time. I pulled the slack out of the belt with the tensioner. I barred the motor around once, but on the second time the crank w/n pass TDC. So I loosened the cam caps releasing valve spring tension on the valves, the valves no longer open; they are all closed. I rotated the crank 1 full revolution and went for the second rotation and it stopped just shy of 360 degrees; now it won't pass 360 in rotation in either direction

Nope no chance all those are removed.

All the valves have no spring pressure on them, the rocker arms are loose, there are no accessories connected, all tensioners are released, no belts are hooked up, the engine is free of all hook ups, the crank is disconnected from the cams, the crank won't rotate 360 degrees, Something MUST be in a cylinder, between the piston top and the head.

He who stirs the pot has to lick the spoon ya know.....

When I was active duty we had a company come in to give us some education and they did a product demo; it was Bearing and Gear, "BG" they sell their stuff at our local NAPAs but maybe it's NAPA wide. They had a gas treatment and a product to clean diesel injectors and intake valves that was outta this world! They brought in bore scopes and showed us how to use it and how well it worked. That stuff is the (you know what)! I don't know if it's safe for foam carb floats...when the can says safe for all cars and trucks fuel systems they're not necessarily good for motorcycles too ya know?

Yes t-belt change is only based on mileage not lose of belt. Tranny is not an issue. Torque converter not a player here.

I ran Seafoam for several tanks and I still got "tired gas" performance. Bogs down under acceleration, it goes but it ain't right. I'm going to tear down all the carbs, soak them in carb solvent (not the floats though) and put them in my brand new (never touched by human beings/built by monkeys in space) Harbor Freight 2.5 qt. ultra-sonic cleaner with some HOT water in it. Then blow all the passages out with compressed air, re-assemble and beg Peder to re-sync them for me.

I'm working on my car, a '07 3.5 Chrysler Sebring changing the timing belt, been going on 3 weeks now because of issues with poor machining of the timing marks, I got that straightened out now I guess I sucked something down into the cylinders though the open intakes (yeah my bad I suppose) and the engine won't rotate 360. #s 1 & 4 are the guilty cylinders. So I loosened the cap bolts to relieve the pressure on the cams and to close all the valves so now you can spin the cam but the valves don't open/close. I did this to be sure I didn't have a valve issue and to bring the crank into TDC; except it won't turn 360 with the belt off and the valves ALL closed. So there must be something inside a cylinder. Of course the HF camera I already had won't fit through the spark plug hole so I spend my M/C parts money on the new camera they got that WILL (and does) fit nicely through the hole. No complaints about the camera! If you got a sd card you can take pics and video and transfer them to the puter! How cool is that? On sale for $199.00 (sure glad it wasn't $200.00; then it would have been too expensive) I got a 25% off coupon so I got the thing for $150 plus tax. Now the down sides: it has 2 so far. The 3 accessories that clip (like a clip on a cheap ball point pen) on the camera right behind the lens, a tiny magnet that might lift some wire wheel wire (MAYBE), when you use it the LED light that illuminates for the camera is reflected right back at the camera resulting in a blob of glare you wouldn't believe. All the accessories do this, cover them with black grease and it goes away. There is a tiny hook, and a 90 degree mirror that's nice. 1 problem; THE DG MIRROR ISN'T MAGNETIC, so when the inevitable happens you're gonna play H _LL getting it out of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Not that the clips aren't tight BUT they can slide right off if you're not careful when you remove the digital head from the spark plug hole. There should be a ball (like on some screw drivers than hold the different bits... or on a socket extension) there to make it even harder to install and remove but better that than trying to grab the thing with coat hanger wire and the hook it comes with. What a lesson in patients ! Back to the car, I haven't found anything in #1 cylinder nor do I see anything in #4. Those are the 2 that are near enough to TDC to bind when the engine's #1 piston almost at TDC or just after. No the belt did not break while the engine was running. I wanted to change it because it was 8k miles past Chrysler's recommendation of 100k miles. This is the punishment for performing preventive maintenance instead of letting the motor grenade it self.

So ok; if it's the return direction is a SHORTER distance I really don't see the problem. Harbor Freight ships as does Amazon.com. I really don't know why more guys don't keep these pliers. I use them to make small rotor rooters for clogged lines, you can spin up 2 lengths of safety wire to make a MIGHTY stiff hook to retrieve a dropped part from NEVER,NEVER, (seen or used again) Land. I use them for all sorts of things. I first saw them on the flight line in the USAF too. I wanted to liberate a pair but I re-trained into Vehicle Maintenance befor I got a chance, when I went to Keflavic NAS to support AFI (Air Forces Iceland)F-15s that escorted USSR bombers through the Greenland, Iceland, United Kingdom (GIUK) Gap. The NAVY let us BUY them in the Local Purchase store. That was a support store where units could buy everyday supplies instead of ordering them and waiting for them. They had TOOLS! That was something that (IMHE) the USAF didn't do so it was taken advantage of believe me!

6" pair: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45340.html $10.00 9': http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html $12.00 http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/safetwirepliers.jpg

I got all the hoses off and capped the pipettes on the cylinders using a LONG needle nose plier that has a curved (or bent) nose. It wasn't easy; a small ($0.25 size) inspection mirror and some LIGHT will make this job a LOT easier because it's hard to see the inboard pipettes. Recommend you put twisted wire around the rubber vacuum caps you put on the pipettes to ensure there are no vacuum leaks. When I was oversea in the USAF we were allowed to purchase tools in the Gov't tool store. I bought a pair of (what we called) "Safety Wire Pliers" . They are pretty long (about12") and have a short nose that grips the ends of the wire you want to twist. There is a sliding lock integrated in the LONG handle that latches both handles together locking the nose down HARD on the ends of the wire to be twisted. There is a knob built into the handle that ;s pulled, this spins the whole plier and twists the wire into the neat and even "barber pole" pattern you see on safety (sometimes called :mechanic's wire) wire. This was how I installed the wire around my YICS caps.

I have 2 rear wheel/differential assemblies. I do not have the swing arms that go with them or the drive shafts. Is there a way of knowing if they are 83 to 85, I don't know what a 86 and up looks like....

Pete; A wise old man once said to me "Son; if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Seems to me this is applicable here too. All 3 windings reading about the same, digital VM on board reading 13.5VDC or a LITTLE better, no charging issues...man it just don't get any better than that!

Wasn't someone offering a cd/dvd walk through of carb tear down re-build? I'd like to buy one....

You can use the parts you have from the compressor unless you want the shraders in the stock locations. In stock locations you'll need the little ride selector mounting plate down by the fuel pump, the one for bikes with the CLASS are different than those without.,the collars that distribute the air to each fork, you can find them on ebay. 2 rings, a connecting hose and o rings. I think that's it. There is something about the plate and the air hose that goes there I can't recall right now, let me go look and I'll let you know. PM me with questions.

I bought a 8 circuit "ATO" (I think) fuse block on line. It uses standard automotive fuses, the plastic ones with different colors to help ID the rating (amps). You can get the smaller :ATO" style fuses but I don't know if they are called "ATO". I moved ALL my fuses to this block, even the in line ones (the CLASS is one) and the MAIN 40 amp fuse. If you would like more pics just ask. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0254.jpg

I think the bulbs were moved to the wrong holes. With the "meter" (dash) out but still connected electrically try turning on a blinker, move the blinking bulb to the proper hole(s).

My Venture has a gauge and it works, it's never reading as high as some say all Ventures do. It runs just above the lower break in the green line on the highway, in town with stop and go it goes up a bit. When I turn on the fan I just want a little red light to come on to tell me it's on, maybe there is a way to wire it so it'll light up whether or not I turned it on or the thermo-switch did...

You can check the parts catalog at http://yamaha-motor.com/ then hit the following: Star Motorcycles, parts and service, view parts catalog, proceed to parts catalog, and enter your bike's info. This is the OEM's catalog and so far as I know it's regularly updated with changes/deletions. Parts dealers may be deleted stock on hand but I usually start here. In the parts book you will find cables 1 & 2 under "Handlebar Cables"... Cables 3 & 4 under the "Carbuerator" Section. They call the cables by numbers... From the 84 catalog for the DKC2 These 2 are located from the twist throttle to the relay. 41V-26311-00-00 CABLE, throttle 1 41V-26312-00-00 CABLE, throttle 2 These from the relay to the carbs. 41V-26313-01-00 http://partstream.arinet.com/Content/images/alertIco.png CABLE, THROTTLE 3 41V-2631J-00-00 CABLE, THROTTLE 4 I recommend EBay and Amazon as places to check for ANY parts you need. There are several sites on the net that carry parts for Yamaha as well. Shop around don't get taken. Thanks Yamaha for making it easy to cut and paste your numbers.

I have the title in hand: the VIN is (drums rolling in the background; Vanna smiling and turning numbers up on the board making sure the world checks her out) JYA59J00FA001416!

I have #1416 Built in Jan of 85 I think.