cowpuc

He's talking RSV though Sky and those are MK1/MK2 syncs.. Totally different syncing..

I am so sorry to read this BP!! You and your family have my deepest condolences my friend!! Also,count me as one who will be praying for each of you as you work thru such a great loss!!! Puc

Yeppers,, Michigan is kind of messy right now Rod,, same as lots of places I am sure.. My last nail from the nail tosser was a 2 inch metal decking screw of the type meant for steel building siding/roofing.. Right thru the sidewall this time.. Couldnt get the thing to stop leaking with plugs.. Everything around here is locked up tight, ended up picking up a tire online and having it shipped to me.. It was suppose to be a next day delivery and ended up being 4 days.. Having tire spoons and being use to spooning on my own scoot tires I was going to take and attempt at spooning one on a car wheel and balancing it like I do my bike tires but ended up finding a rebellious indy that was open,, mounted and balanced for 11 dollars!! Told em thanks for being there and double thanks for not doing the price gouging routine like many are doing.. Definitely a tippable situation!!

Here ya go brother!!! Straight from the guru's!!! If this dont answer your question/solve your problem hang around and one of these pro's will figure it out!!! https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?258-Syncronizing-the-Carbs

I have done my 83's hundreds of times but only did an RSV sync one time.. To my recollect,, the OEM instructions on the process were wrong and I had to figure it by trial and error.. Before it got stolen out of my shop I used a handy little Twinmax digital that would only do 2 at a time too and used it successfully many times on other twins,, I am sure you can do the same.. Hold on and I will see if I can find some info to help you out!!

ipt IMHO,, this is what you may be missing.. As a natural/normal part of the internal combustion engine, in carbueetor equipped engines even more so the EFI if the injected engine is tuned properly as they can be tuned to more perfection, there is always an element of carbon build up.. While this is mostly noted for taking place in the combustion chamber (head, top of piston, deck and so on) due to the issues the carbon causes with performance (such as creating spark knock and misfiring), there is always a build up of carbon inside of the exhaust headers and exhaust system.. When heated by the exiting exhaust, carbon deposits will emit highly combustable fumes of their own that can and do create explosions (popping) if air is introduced into the exhaust system via and air leak in a cracked/pin holed pipe or thru a bad exhaust gasket.. I discovered this many many years ago while using a torch and a coat hanger to patch up an exhaust system.. I am sure you can replicate my experience simply by putting a plug in the end of your bikes exhaust and taking a torch and heating up the header pipe next to a known exposed small opening in the system .. By the way,, for many years my lop eared gearheaded friends never believed me when I explained to them what I had experienced.. Their thought was always that there was no way that exhaust, passing thru the pipes, could possible get the carbon within the pipes to that kind of temp. This thought completely disappeared though when the first Titanium exhaust pipes came out and we were all riding dirt bikes one night with Ti pipes on them.. It was a beautiful site to see the looks on some nay sayer faces as the looked down at the brightly glowing red header pipes as the bikes were setting there idling..

Max,, it sounds to my untrained beaner like you may be experiencing plugged low speed jets/jet circuitry in one of more of your bikes 4 carbs.. Possibly even a high speed jet to two too.. That being said, the following copy/paste of a post I made years ago is something I have done successfully through the years to unplug jets (did a LOT of dealer auctions years ago and used this a lot in the field to get abandoned bikes to possibly fire up.. IMHO,, it worked pretty good for me).. It may or may not be worth a read.. Either way,, all the best with your project!! ***** word of caution!! It would be best if you used spray carb cleaner in the syringe and not Chem Dip as Chem Dip is fairly sensitive to work with.. Not getting the Chem Dip out of the bowls in time can/will result in damage to rubber o-rings and diaphrams.. Normal carb cleaner found at auto parts stores can be injected and left for long periods of time in the bowls with no damage being done.. **** I also believe I have a video of this process that I made years ago,, if I can find it I will post it up for you. Agreed,, IMHO Randy,, you should have no problembo on the carb rebuild, yep,, your that talented!! You and I both know from experience that when carbs get to the point that you are talking about here they really should be opened up and done properly.. A really really good top to bottom clean, some new jets and a complete rebuild of all rubber parts, taking the time to make sure ALL the passages into the throat of carb are open, triple checking diaphram conditions and replacing if needed, new needle and seats,, all that done, synced up and that puppy will run like a new one.. Then if its cared for the carb overhaul should last for many many years.. Now,, a little secret that I have done successfully many many times after purchasing a scoot that hasnt ran in many years and trying to figure out exactly what I have.. The following advice is NOT for everyone because if not done in a timely fashion = rubber internal carb parts are toast BUT - if you gotta take the carb down any way,, it's worth a shot IMHO and at least for me.. Years ago I did a very scientific test on carb cleaning products to decide which product I was going to use for my plan by seperating the carbs off a junk 750 Honda that had sat for many years with fuel in the tank and petcock open (NASTY) = opening them up and dunking the parts in seperate containers filled with pure, new, 100% undiluted carb cleaning products.. I narrowed my test products down to 4 of the best known products including one that I have used for years as a tank dunk.. Results in order of performance: 1st Place = Berryman's Chem Dip (comes in a one gallon dip tank = have used it for years) = parts came clean in one hour. 2nd Place = That Yellow and White can of carb cleaner that Auto Zone used to sell - they dont sell it any more but it was the stuff that if you got it under your wedding band your finger was INSTANLY on fire!! 8 hour soak and parts came clean. 3rd Place = Blue and White can of GM Injector Cleaner (for the life of me I can think of the actual name of the stuff - been a long time).. 1 day/24 hour soak parts came clean enough that with a small amount of rubbing with a tooth brush the stuff sparkled. 4th Place = Seafoam = left it set for a week and even then the tough stuff was hanging tough.. Still no clue why Seafoam seems to work like it does.. Makes the engine run better but testing showed it was NOT because it was actually cleaning anything.. I did all that above testing because, at the time, I was being over run with bikes of all types that had set for years and I needed to formulate a way to get em going without investing a lot of time and parts money into getting them started just to find out I was dealing with a bad crank or what ever = these were MY bikes NOT a customers bike that I was paid to do a carb rebuild on!!.. A quick,, make em run just to see what I had.. That said,, the following is what I came up with, has worked for me many times, even proved itself to work sometimes to the point that I ended up not needing to pull the carb down BUT - that was not 100%! Its a gamble.. So,, if its worth a shot and your gonna pull the carbs anyway AND your friends plan is to do a complete carb rebuild, here is what I would do first: Centerstand or stand the bike upright so the bowls are level. Shut off the gas, drain the carbs, pull the diaphrams/slides. Pick up a large animal injection syringe from an ag store (should be in your tool box already = very handy ), slide the end of the syringe over the drain line, fill the syringe with Chem Dip and inject Chem Dip into the bowls one at a time until the Chem Dip flows out of the mains a little, close the drain and go to next carb. Allow Chem Dip to set in Carb bowl for 1 hour!! Open Drains one at a time with syringe attached and suck Chem Dip out of bowls emptying syringe back into gallon container of Chem Dip for future use. Fill syringe with Spray carb cleaner of brake cleaner of your choice and inject into bowls until it drips out of mains. Let sit while you fill all the bowls. Go back to first carb filled with carb cleaner - attach syringe, open drain screw, agitate cleaner by pulling syringe in and out - few pulls and you will notice carb cleaner has turned brown.. After pulling cleaner all the way to empty bowl go to next carb and continue till all carbs are empty.. Now start over, do this until you have clean carb cleaner from each bowl after agitation. Now switch over to raw gas, fill bowls again till raw gas is seeping from mains. Agitate and empty 2x. Replace diaphrams/slides making sure that slides are all moving easily in carb casings.. Any sign of sticky = clean until it slides effortlessly.. Button her up, turn on the gas and see what cha got.. Any of that make sense at all brother?? Need a video for clarification = can do.. Another thing I would check very carefully is tank interior.. Look very carefully for rust in tank = any rust gone to stalagtites = tank seal. Most rust dust can easily be cleaned to perfection by emptying tank = fill it with white vinegar (stuff is amazing = personally I have used white vinegar fairly successfully for carb cleaning with the drain/agitate method when the jets are plugged off severly like the one your dealing with are = good stuff). If the tank isnt stalagtited = use vinegar, gotta let it set for a few days is all BUT = it will clean up and not remove the galvanization (in tank sealing removing that galvanization is commonly known as "etching".. If ya gotta seal the tank = Red Kote is THE max!!! Sorry for the long post,, hope it helps somehow!! Best of the best gettin your buddies scoot happening for em Rand = YOU DA MAN!!

yep,, :sign yeah that: and lots more of !! BUT,,always remember and never forget,, if all else fails you can ALWAYS:

oh,, by the way Boko,, :group cheers:

Yamaha used the same balance shaft in all balanced V-4's including the GEN 1 V-Max Boko.. There was a run of non-balanced V-4's in the Royal Star Classics from 96 till 99 (as I recall,, may be wrong on the years) with the smaller 26mm carbs that didnt sell well,, wayyy to putzy IMHO but other than those that did not have a balance shaft and the later GEN 2 1700cc V-Maxes,, the balance shafts from 83 up were the same according to parts fiche found here: https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/500459d7f8700209bc793ba4/crankshaft-piston

dork wad computers are a blessing and a curse aint they brother Do those old puters do anything,, anything at all if ya plug em in and hit the start button?

IMHO Zin,, your getting the best of the best advice thus far,, could not agree more with the above posts!! I did notice you mention exhaust popping.. Most, if not almost all, of the popping exhaust issues I have had the honor of dealing with have somehow come back to air getting into the exhaust system.. Even a tiny little rust hole or a leaky gasket of the smallest version can cause popping.. I can't help but now wonder if your scoot has a header pipe to head donut gasket leaking a bit and maybe contributing to the smoke you are seeing somehow.. Long shot but what the heck,, what the hay...

Well,, this is about as back yard mechanican as you can get but its always worked for me.. 1st thing that theoryized thru the years was that,, regardless of what vehicles starter we are talking about but especially applicable to small starters as found in motorcycles and garden tractors = using an old, weak battery is one of the hardest things you can use/do to your starter = IMHO,, if its struggling to turn,, heat is building up between the windings and that is not a good thing if you like to get max distance/use out of a starter (or any motor IMHO).. Batteries are cheap,, not uncommon for me to replace my lead/acid batteries every year or at least every couple years.. I also discovered early in my adVentures with my 2 brush 1st Gens that when they started doing the old hard start when hot routine,, if I removed the starter, opened it up,, cleaned the armature dust out real well and paid xtra attention to the groves in the armature and other close quarters to get them spotless = as new = the starters acted like they were new again!! One of my non genius theories of why that was has always been that the dust in there was cause voltage tracking/leaking and sucking the life out of the blood of the windings.. Crazy,, I know BUT,, it has always worked for me and never did the 4 brush upgrade and never even did the bigger cable routine.. Go figure..

Thanks Boss,, yeah,, INDEED IT DOES BROTHER,, INDEED IT DOES! :thumbsup:

Awe,, thanks for the compliment Kev,, it was indeed a true pleasure making your aquaintance at The Dalles rally in Oregon my friend!! You are welcome on the sharing here to brother, my pleasure!! Also,, I got a hunch I got some pics or videos or both of that Rally that I will mix in with my "Don's MD" stuff here if no else joins in to keep making the Lemonade lemony.. Sort of mixed fruit drink of Lemonade so to speak!! Keep an eye on this thread ya lop eared varmint cause you may enjoy the taste of whats to come! Good to hear from you Kev!! Puc P.S. Tip says hi and sends a :bighug:your way,,, always smiling and hugging varmints that one is!!

I ran Wally Worlds cheap non synthetic "Supertech" in my 1st Gens for 100's of thousands of miles thru the years and was always impressed with the stuff.. Never an issue,, I never had a catastrophic failure on any of them and always ended up getting well over 200k miles out of the bikes before I retired em and this was bikes that either came to me with 2nd gear missing or had the second gear fail while I was riding it.. Of course, as you know,, the loss of 2nd gear failing had absolutely nothing to do with the cheap oil - just saying that cause some reader that knows nothing of the 1st Gen 2nd gear issue may read this and think it was the oils fault.. I LOVED the Wall Mart stuff cause I could ALWAYS find it,, it was dirt cheap, Walmarts always let me swap oil in the parking lot and dump my old oil back in automotive and the non-High Energy weight selections were awesome (20/50 Supertech = PERFECT for desert temps).. I have always followed my own ideas of when to change oils in a wet clutch oil bath unit construction scoot = I swap when the oil gets dirty = not uncommon to do so around 2500 miles,, 1500 if Tip/Tweeks and I been doing a lot of off roading,, so having a Walmart at every corner always worked Great!! Will not surprise me even one tiny little bit to here you state that you are extremely pleased with the stuff after using it for a bit Sky!! Puc

,,, :95:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lightbulb:,,, We could take the lemons life has dealt us and make lemonade!!! We could post pictures of MD's gone by and keep it going till the day of freedom arrives!! I thought of it,, I will go first!! (humble and an introvert aint I?)

Here's the thing CW, and I dont mean this pridefully or with any malice,, if someone I didnt know walked up and asked if they could use my 3200 pspi powerwasher to scrub their bike I would say no and do so because I would not want them blaming me or my powerwasher for paint being blown off their scoot, radio/dash board being filled with water or bearings having all the grease blown out of them. They may or may not reply,, wellllll I saw you washing your bike (wouldnt have seen me washing Tweeks/my 83 because that dirt on her from past adVentures is a keep sake) with it - what gives? What gives is right,,,, I have washed hundreds of bikes thru the years with power washers and have done so successfully,, to think a person can clean the caked on clay from an MX track off a KX500 without a powerwasher is craziness.. When using a powerwasher I am very careful with what I spray at full force and what I back off with the wand and spray with a light spray.. The areas that, as you say, get wet during a downpour rain ride are absolutely washable with a powerwasher as long as you are mindful of how hard you are forcing the water onto it, even the hardest of hardest downpour thunderstorm is not going to create 3200 psi of force if you know what I mean,, just use common sense.. Also,, those areas that normally do not get water on/in them,, again,, like a dash board,, should be hand cleaned IMHO but you sound like the kind of person who has the common sense to already know that.. Also wrapping areas like air cleaners/exhaust pipe openings is mandatory whether powerwashing or hose washing IMHO and air blasting water out of collection spots like spark plug wells is also common sense, as is pulling plug caps and drying out caps to prevent carbon tracking... That dust under the tank and in areas seen in your pic should clean up fairly easily with out having to use hard/direct pressure washer high pressure,, if you have caked on - oil soaked dirt gathered there - you have more problems to worry about besides washing your bike with a powerwasher ..

One of the things often overlooked by those seeking to hot rod out or make use of larger 32mm carbs on the 96/99 Royal Stars that are designed for the 26mm carbs is there as numerous design changes in those models that simply make them somewhat limited in what can and can not be done at a reasonable cost with reasonable reliability as an end result.. One of the main design changes that Mom Yam made to those particular models is the dropping of the balance shaft.. The smaller carb usage is part of a design that will not be used in higher crank R's - basically all about torque and not about hp up in the 5252 and above rpm range.. The 32mm carbs (and the V-Max V-Boost) at designed, in the V-4 Yam application, as high rpm - high hp in mind and reguire the ability for the engine design to be spun up into the revs in order to create the velocity thru the 32mm carbs to make them effiecient.. It may be noteworthy to note that the models with the 32mm carbs OEM and straight from Mom Yam also have balance shafts being spun off the crank to balance the engine when she spins up.. IMHO,, Mom Yam didn't just stick those balance shafts on the faster, higher revving,, 32mm carb models cause she just had some extra parts to get rid of,, at least thats my opinion.. Personally,, if I was wanting to build up a 96/99 model and wanted to make it trustworthy for long range touring AND a real buddy in performance,, I would do some research and see if the engine from a model using the balanced motor (I would look for a V-Max engine) could be shoe-horned into the 96/99 and start my project there.. If possible (and anything is), I would then put the feelers out for a short block or even better,, a balanced long block..Make sense?

Super Bikes of the Liter legend are something I stayed away from at their inception because I had a family to raise,,, wayyyyy to much on the line so to speak.. That said, when the cancer Dr. told me 50/50 in my case and reluctantly agreed = bucket list time, Maggie my R1 was my 1st adventure in finding peace on my buckets list.. 103 mph in 1st gear and that happens so fast you HAVE to use the throttle like a micrometer ,, she's a 6 speed and in 5th - bouncing off the rev limiter = 176 mph, Maggies an early enough model that she is not hampered by the later models and their 186 mph speed limiter and I absolutely positively have no doubt she will bounce the rev limiter in 6th @+200 mph,, no doubt.. There are lots and lots and LOTS of people that I know who have spent HUGE money attempting to cross the +160 mph zone and most are dismayed at how difficult that can be,, even +150 can be pricey.. If that is what this is all about,, I assure you,, Skydoc is spot on in his advice.. IMHO of course.. The tiny little 1000cc Liter bike,, the little bike that proves over and over and over again that the idea of there being no replacement for displacement is a myth.. Unless, of course,, we are talking short shifting your way down the highway dragging 40 ton around behind you!!

Having been in the restore business I have tried many many different methods for restoring tanks including electrolisis, acids, sand and bead blasting, rattling bolts in a paint shaker for rust removal/prep for sealing.. Best of the best I have found for prep is White Vinegar - straight strength - filled to the brim and let the tank sit for a week.. Rinse good with water and dry with a heat gun or sit it in the sun.. I welded pipe for years, both Tig and Savick and also did a fair amount of shop tigging/shear work and applied those skills to both restoring tanks and building new. Unfortunately,, with vintage tanks, repairing and repainting takes away from their value.. I learned many years ago the Kreme Coating was not for me. I got pretty good with the stuff but had serious failures with tanks lasting out past 10 years.. The coating would always separate and cause issue with leaking again and get really ugly.. I did a bunch a tinkering with inventing my own coating and had good result using Seal All (yellow tube) as a base and MEK as a suspention/liquifier.. I actually had much better results long term with my homemade coating than I ever saw out of Kreme Coat.. Then I discovered Red Kote ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Kote-Quart-Coat-Gas-Oil-Diesel-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Liner-Patch-Hit-Miss-Engine/131533413846?hash=item1ea0009dd6:g:mb4AAMXQ1PNRauxA ) and WOWZY,, my tank restoration/repair process was changed for ever.. This is some SERIOUS stuff that I have used very successfully for many years!! Because I never did have access to the Zinc process that large manufacturers use to protect the inside of the new tanks found on all modern steel tank bikes (what happens when a bike tank rusts from sitting is the inside of the tank that is coated with Zink looses it zink, this is why after you acid a tank out to prep it it rusts again very quickly - IMHO of course) I always strove to get the tanks as rust free as possible for adhesion of the coating.. I discovered that this was not necessary with Red Kote.. A simple handful of bolts in the tank, shake it some to knock off the stalagtites,, a quick rinse with vinager and rinse with water, dry with heat gun,, apply the Red Kote and its done.. Complete job in just a couple hours. ANother extremely valuable thing about Red Kote is that it actually makes a tank within the tank and this is HUGE.. NO more patching/welding needed as the coating fills the holes/leaks so you can keep the OEM paint job intact.. I now have bikes out there that I built/restored using Red Kote with +25 years on them and still going strong!! Thats all I know about that Unc! Puc

This question came up in a recent discussion I had with some close friends who both served in America's military.. Having both served and taken "The Oath",, they thought America's LEO "Oath" is different than that of U.S. Military personnel.. I have never served at either position of honor but I had always thought the oath's were identical.. Has anyone here served in both and did you find the swear-in's to be identical in both nature and word or do they differ?? Any differences you could share with the public? An early THANK YOU to anyone who can help and a HUGE THANK YOU again all/any who have served in either/or!! Puc

TOTALLY AGREE BUM!! That Patch,, he is quite the top notch DJ!!! Reminds me of BJ the DJ from South Dakota!!! That would be a HUGE compliment Patch!!!

Very close to my point about fixation sighting Patch... As an opinion of mine, what can and does happen very often, especially in circles where skills to prevent it from happening have not been developed, is the person will spot a dangerous situation and instead of avoiding panic and using their developed skills to avoid a crisis,, they actually freeze up in fear and maintain focus on where the crisis is going to happen and thereby end up following thru with the crisis.. This is very common on MX Tracks where 200 ft jumps are common place and I have personally watched in horror while in the air on my MX bike as a rider in front of me,, also air born,, will panic and forget to tap his rear brake to adjust the attitude of his bike for the landing as he freezes up from fear and just stares at the spot he and his bike are about to crash land.. All resulting in severe injuries (or even death - witnessed many injuries but never an actual death thank God) as the rider stares down at the landing ramp below him and his fixation from fear completes its evil mission. I know,, probably sounds like a bunch of nonsense but from my untrained perspective it is reality..