cowpuc

All sound advice IMHO. This may sound wayy out there but if it was mine I would be double checking the carb slide diaphrams.. Maybe pay close attention to the areas that contact the carb body as well as the areas down at the slide as well as the usual pin hole/tear inspection. Also maybe double check and make sure you dont have a brake hanging up.

Must of been a Thursday pic Peggy,,, handful of people and no canopy with a pair of Big Tom's red undies flying from it up yet

Just thought of something else brother.. No idea on the RSV if you can do this,, if not, I would just use the key switch to aquire same results.. On my 1st Gens = turn key on,, rock kill switch on and off to cycle the fuel pump.. Keep cycling fuel pump until it fills the bowls fully and will cycle no more.. Trying to start the bike without full bowls is a fools errand IMHO.. With bowls full, slip choke on, throttle closed, hit starter,, when she starts - let her idle for just a few seconds and work choke off slowly to not over choke and blacken thoselittle "D" plugs, adding little throttle blips until she will take throttle..

IMHO, if they are both regular acid filled, regular maintenance type batteries with the removable caps I would pull the caps, check acid levels, add distilled water to bring each cell up to full fill, hook up the charger and let em fully charge. While charging I would look into each cell making sure they are all bubbling/taking charge. When the battery stops taking charge, the bubbling will stop meaning its as charged as its gonna be.. Unplug the charger or remove of the negative clip first so you dont get a boom.. Check acid levels again after battery has cooled and top off if needed. My charger now has an amp gauge on it but I used a trickle charger for years with no gauge.. The above always worked perfect as described above. No-Maintenance batterys - I have removed the non-removable caps and refilled them with great success.. Gel Batterys - no idea.. Probably just replace when gone.. Lithium Batterys - neighbor left his lithium on charger over winter in his HD and found out that was not a good idea.. Bike smelled funny, wouldnt crank, popped the seat and found out the thing got hot enough in there that it almost started a fire = battery box/seat pan area melted big time.. IMHO, and remember who ya heard this from cause I am no electrical giant,, if battery condition is questionable = get new.. Top cause for complete starter failure on these little bike starters = weak/dead cell batteries (seconded only slightly by resistance at the cable ends)..

Time is proving that elderly, whose immune systems are already weakened, and those who have comprimised immune system are paying the big price.. Quarintining those in that category and/or let those of us in such a category practice self quarintining and then let all others go back to work seems reasonable too me.. Expecting the Government to solve all our problems has never worked, individual responsibility has been, and always will be the solution IMHO.

Never a dull moment in the industry.. Beemers latest release into the cruiser market is an 1800cc push rod/air cooled bike.. Stayed with shaft drive,, updated the clutch so it wont lock the rear wheel on a downshift,, pretty neat.. Looking at it though,, as the writer of the article, I am wondering about the heat issue that plagues all air cooled scoots, especially with the creep to big ol honkin cubes.. This one though,, with its jugs capturing the feet/legs and then being encircled by exhaust,,, even though its not fairinged slowing down air flow, it will be interesting to hear about how she does in the cooking the legs/feet category.. Pretty good read,, thinkin of dragging my R1 out for a putt around the block now,, see if I can run me some Virus's.. https://riders.drivemag.com/news/bmw-r18-cruiser-preview-price-better-than-harley-davidson?fbclid=IwAR3JUpHMVPybezTVFrBNKA799LyH7e2NxEgL-YAQhxORWSR0ZwrflsqKgO8

RATSSSSS,, if it weren't for this stupid virus thing he could have a WOLO install party Sly:

Just start reading,, easy peasy: http://americanmotorcyclist.com/For-Members/The-Magazine/Magazine-Archive ""EXPANDED ACCESS: for the next 30 days the AMA is allowing non-member access to American Motorcyclist online edition. Please tell your motorcycling friends and help spread the word about the AMA!""

All great advice so far IMHO.. Idling issues can often be associated with plug fouling/ignition issues.. Weak spark at idle can also be rectified with with new plug caps and/or removal of small amount of plug wire where the wire connects to plug cap as that is where resistance increases due to corrostion. Remember: good compression/carburation/ignition all required for good combustion. Anything, including plugged air filter/exhaust can interrupt the outcome..

:sign yeah that: Sawtoothing/wear on the surfaces the plates ride on or wear on plate ears that ride on the mating hub surfaces can also cause plates not to disengage properly resulting in clutch drag can also be an issue. Also double check the plate stack for proper alignment, on OEM plates there are small punch marks for proper plate alignment.

Kind of rough language at times,, to much for a kid but this guy seems to be the most relevant from a non-political perspective IMHO.. and here Dr Vuong interviews one of his colleagues, also interesting..

I repaired a leaker on a cross country tour one time by cleaning the mating surfaces the best I could, splitting the new gasket with my jack knife, slipping it in and setting it in Seal All and allow over night to set up.. Sounds funky BUT,, couple hundred thousand miles later when she went to scrap, second gear was still gone and bike was a worn out disaster but the pet cock was still holding solid

Thinking Freebird did this with his Lawman, I may have bonked my head on one while loosing bolts under it, so stuff would fall off and I could tease him about it, while laying on his garage floor last MD.. Don,, what were those purdy things,, Kury-Cans? Hope I aint barking up a wrong tree,, sorry if I woke you up from your beauty sleep for nothing Boss

Almost all OHC scoots I have worked on are not roller/ball bearing on the cams. They are line bored aluminum journals carrying the cam shaft which tend to be more susceptable to going high side on tolerances in the cam saddles over time,, especially on high mileage/poorly maintained engines (change your oil when the oil gets dark whether running full synthetic or dino,, unit motors running wet clutches that deposit clutch fibers into oil especially need clean oil). IMHO, making sure the cam lobe positioning for checking lash requires that the non testing lobes be putting pressure on valves to mitigate tolerance wear in the cam journals so that is added into the lash measurement.. If OEM spec on valve maintenance does not promote this (sometimes in dealing with scoots with valve overlap ground into cam grind, valve/cam pressure on non testing lobes is not spec), I like to set lash to spec in manual and then recheck with pressure on in different cam position. IMHO, valve to valve seat wear is most common loss of lash tolerance causing valves to go tight.. This can be from either valve face wear or seat wear or both.. Modern valve/seat composition has greatly reduced a lot of issues causing tolerance loss and now adays, IMHO, the most common cause of failure/need for maintenance is abuse from not being ridden and corrotion taking place from lack of use. Side note,, about the new Venture and valve maintenance.. I was recently chatting with a friend who spins wrenches at the local Yam shop.. He commented that he had a new one in that he adjusted the valves in and was not able to get it to quiet down and was thinking another cam/lifter replacement under warranty.. Chatting with him, something dawned on me,,, I asked him if he checked both valves being operated by the hydraulic uni cam being used in the new one.. He said he had checked the valve under the adjustment screw as that was the only valve adjustment there was.. I told him that I would actually also check the mating valve as face/seat loss on the valve under the adjustment screw could actually increase lash on mating valve as the adjustment valve lifted up the rocker.. Scratched his head, he nodded and said I will let you know - sounds possible..

Oh Vaz will ride the mountains all right,, you can trust the varmint for that sister... Just don't trust him to bring you a baby rattlesnake, some people have no dignity when it comes to baby rattlesnake promises..

Sorry Mama,, I was copping a zzzz on the couch,, laying on my back with my head tipped sideways and Oreo Cookie slobber running down the side of my face..

Worked awesome Randy,, gotta say though,, I dont see no theory here - I remember like yesterday where I was standing and what I doing when JFK was taken down... It did happen... Now by whom? I know but I cant say cause that would be and I never participate in such folly.. Thanks Rand for the post!! In honor of other lop eared quarintined varmints who might even still be to lazy to copy/paste your link,, I will also try something here:

Will not fire as in the starter will spin but not engage or as in nothing happens unless you push the start button a bunch of times?

Have cleaned many many carbs thru the years.. Bar none, the very best cleaner in a timely fashion IMHO has been: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEM-DIP-PARTS-CLEANER-California-Compliant-Formula-NET-96-fl-oz-w-basket/153000363239?epid=2255923355&hash=item239f8844e7:g:nAIAAOSwj2Za46wf Its aggressive stuff - follow the directions.

Yeah these lop eared varmints can be pretty thick skulled at times.. Some of them cant even read yet so ya gotta work with pictures .. Thinking what I would do is take some snap shots to wake em up and make a whole new thread exclusively about your question. Place it in both the water hole and in the 2nd Gen tech.. If that dont work,, put together a Meet and Greet offering free hot dogs.. These varmints can down hot dogs like a kid eating a candy bar.. I have ridden MK1's for years so really cant help you but,, it seems I do remember someone making wire harness adaptors and plug n play relay kits for an upgrade to the RSV's OEM... Maybe do a little digging for such and email that person..

Thinking the OP was comparing RSV to 1500 Wing so we are probably talking water cooled shaft drive apples to apples... Maybe not,,, if not,,, just skip my post and listen carefully to Leroy IMHO.. Never could do the Wing thing either because of the capturing of feet thingy.. The opposed 6 was smooth as silk but just no way to come up w a way for multiple foot placement. Looks wise, I personally never cared for the looks of any fixed fairing touring bike. My very favorite Bat Wing (outside of HD) was the RSV Millineum but, IMHO,, that all depends on opinion again IMHO.. Dont know much about the RSV ride for CTFW out past a 12 hour day but I do know the MK1's are remarkable for doing such.. Pretty sure the RSV is totally capable of the same though cause my brother, Neal,, rides one, he's not a tuff guy like I am lol ( VentureFar ) but has still done many many Iron Butters on his gorgeous black RSV.. I have toured on many non-fairing and Bat Wing faired scoots and absolutely LOVE the ugly fixed for battling cross winds like found in the far west States of which the fixed is superior for IMHO.. Concerning the 1500 Wing,, one of the huge things, IMHO, for me is/was Honda's carburation design.. While not an easy peasy set up,, the Yamaha V-4 carb system is farrrr more simple to work on/maintain than the Honda.. Honda tucks the carb system tightly between frame rails = perfect for tiny little Japanese fingers to work within but definitely not for fat Puc fingers.. Plus,, you can do nothing with the Hondas without removal thereof.. I was also never a "foot forward" kind of person for far riding and simply gotta have the ability to move my feet around and even stand up occasionally.. That said,, some points to ponder =

Thinking that the OP was talking RSV,,,,, oopsss,, hold on,, phone call..

After learning to do the final bleed from the master cylinder's banjo bolt I was always blessed with a air bubble free clutch system

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: WORDS OF WISDOM FLOWING FROM HE WHO KNOWS

I always wondered what those punk kids who stole my 1970 Mach 1 did with it!!!