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Showing results for tags 'metal'.
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My Cassett player has been eating tapes, running slow, and would Not Reverse tape direction. I decided its time to replace the belts, and do some work on it. After opening up the unit, back side, the Y shaped piece of metal over the two Fly Wheels has to be removed to replace the 3 Belts. After doing this, and re-installing, the Unit was running very slow, and stopped. Impression was that of Excessive Friction. I took it apart again and found the following. In the First photo, note where I Marked with 2 Arrows. I had applied too much torque to these 2 #1 phillips head screws. I removed the y shaped metal again and realized that the Center Axels , of the Flywheels run's against this piece of metal. I guess you would call it a friction bearing. If you over torque the two screws, you slow down the flywheel rotation, too much friction. Anyway, I applied some greese to these two Points, under the metal piece, ( Under the two points I marked with an " X " ) Re-installed, and left the two small screws, much looser, and applied some lock tite to them. I also applied 3-in-1 Oil to all the rotating gears, and moveing parts. Layed unit on bike, plugged it into power, and Wa La!! it worked great. And the auto reverse is working good now. Anyway, before you throw away your old unit , or give up on it, if your haveing trouble with it , give this a try. Don't forget to clean the Tape Head. -
I can not believe this one......the fairing on my bike on the right hand side has always been a little out of kilter, does not mate up well I mean it is okay , but does tend to pull the windshield a bit and I had to work on my little chrome windshield strip with a heat gun.....thing is I have the fairing spit on my bike and the whole front end dis-assembled as I am building a custom light bar for the bike to fit the Baron light kit.......I noticed up at the top of the metal windshield T-bar.....that metal bar that secures the windshield , that on both end legs is a fastener designed to secure the end bar.....I looked at that....looked again.......boy this is cheep....cheap........cheeper......cheeper than dirt!! Has a little half moon mickey mouse plastic molded clip that this little rubber split washer is supposed to grip unto to hold the ends of the T-Bar. I have the T-bar fully fastened now.......afraid to tighten it much, that half moon plastic thing is so small.......and so cheep......now what kind of engineer would design something like that........think they work for Yamaha? I can see it......look at it........still do not believe it.........I am really dis-appointed in this one........a trained monkey could design something better than that.......Gee!!!
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I passed 600 miles a few days ago and changed the oil and filter today. Used Mobil 1 Clean 6000. The original Dino oil looked good and clean and I didn’t find much in the way of metal in it. The final drive oil was another matter. There was about half an inch of sludge that came out before the oil when I pulled the drain plug. There was a lot of metal on and around the magnet. This thing must have been sitting for 10 years. If you have a new RSV make sure you drain the final drive around 600 miles just to make your life a bit easier down the road. I plan on changing the oil and filter along with the final drive oil again at around 1200 miles just to be sure. I wonder if this is common with new bikes?
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i need a metal chin , the lower fairing below the rad. on a 1st gen , i do not care what condition it is in , rust , no lites , holes is ok , i plan to paint . it will look a lot better with the randya cut and i need some place to put my oil filter anybody got one ? thanks thom
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While riding my bike today I hit something metal on the road and one of the two hoses going into the reed valve broke off. I noticed a sound like air being forced out of the metal tube. Since I have my AIS valve plugged, can I just plug the broken hose also? Or do I have to replace the rubber hose with the L-shaped connector going into the reed valve? Any answer greatly appreciated!!!
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I had a good idea and showed it to 86er when he was in Arkansas. I ordered a trunk back rest to match the one on my 86 VR off ebay. I cut a square piece of sheet metal and attached it to the Yamaha driver back rest on my bike now both match and it is alot more comfortable. Had to grind the rivets out of the bracket of the small back rest to bolt on the larger rest. Just an idea....
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Not sure if this has happened before to anyone else but I thought I let you know what happened and how I managed to fix it. I noticed in my trunk lid that one of the metal clasps that goes into the lock/latch was flopping around. Looking closer, I saw the ABS plastic the metal is attached to was broke off and just hanging by a thread of plastic. Went to the dealer to see if it was covered by the warranty and he said he would call it in and see and order one for me IF it was, $318 for just the lid. Well, a google search for repairing ABS said to go to Lowe's or Home Depot to get some ABS cement made by Oteay(sp). It is similar to the PVC cement but formulated for ABS and it even comes in black..... Only took 30 seconds for it to bond and I left go of it.... seems to be as strong as the other one after 15 minutes...... Guess I'll see tomorrow when I close the lid for the first time after the repair. Cliff
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I'ts time to order new rear break disk, last year on the way from Minesota's PiP rear inner pad is broke and touch metal to metal, for quick fix i'm replace pads only, but rotor has some damage and inner pad has almost twice wear then outer one. Found good performance break dealer at Chicago motorcycle Show, and they ask me is it my rear disk floating or nonfloating:confused24: I have no idea what they asking me for. This two are listed For Royal Star Venture DF 463 W, and DF 498 W Please can you help me to figure out wich one is right disk for rear brake Thaks.
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Does anyone know a fairly painless way to get that varnish-looking crud off of front forks, engine, trans, etc.? I was going to get to it last year, but every time I got the scoot out of the garage, I found myself miles away. It's too easy to put off a couple days of grunt-rubbing. Someone mentioned aluminum aircraft paint remover, but there are many places I can see but can't fit my hand in to rub. How to remove varnish..... & then, how to polish metal in nearly unreachable places ??
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Yamaha Chrome Metal Fender Tips need help
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everybody I' d like some help. i just bought front fender chrome metal tips , the front and rear , the number i order is the exact one for the 2006 tour deluxe i tried to installed the front and it seems to small to fit to the fender i have pushed to hard and scratched the front fender oups$!@# is there someone who have installed it.i 'd appreciate tips to installed them the installation sheet seems wrong thank you -
I am a new guy, just bought a nice 99 Venture and was reading on this site about the lower plastic vents breaking. Well today mine broke off at the metal bracket! For no apparent reason. Hope to get it welded back together.
