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Showing results for tags 'inches'.
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A couple of weeks ago I noticed a good crop of orange barrels starting to grow alongside the highway, no biggie, this is Wisconsin, . Last week on the way home from work In a severe Thunderstorm that came out of the predicted clear skies, (gotta love meteorologists) got to a section of road with no extra markings BUT IT WAS GONE. the hole was filled with water right to the pavement so I never noticed the drop till the bike dropped down off the edge of the pavement. Fortunatly the hole was only about 4 inches deep but now I am at at 45mph in 4 inches of water over a gravel road, Before I could get back under control and slowed down I came uo to a Manhole cover that was sticking up 4 inches but invisible in the water. I saw it a split second before I hit it and all I could do was to hang on tight and get all of my weight to the pegs. I have no idea just how high up in the air the bike was, bit it was a lot higher than was ever intended for my poor old V1. Some how I managed to stay upright and get slowed down to finish crossing he11. I rode slow the rest of the way home not knowing if I did any damage to the bike. My shorts were not worth saving. The next day I cleaned all of the mud and crud off the bike and inspected everything I could, no damage. It was the next day that they put up the road closed signs and baricades. OK Rant over.
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Looking for some opinions on using a c/t on the front of my trike. The contact patch on the front tire now is about 1 3/4 inches either side of center or about 3.5 inches overall. One thing I was wondering about would be the effects on the c/t sidewalls being on the front.
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Today, Ron and I rode the bike to Harbor Freight. We found this nice high volume, 100psi, 12volt portable air compressor for $19.99 on sale. It is a nice compact size with all metal construction, with a quick disconnect coil hose and a nice straight air valve end. Comes with a nice carrying case. It is only 5 1/2" long, 2 inches wide, and 5 inches high. Thought I would share this with you. Yama Mama
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Hi Folks, Do any of you have the length for the side stand on your RSTD. I've heard it is shorter by a few inches than the RSV. If it is could you pass on the length. Thanks in advance Johnny.
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Well, Squidley asked for an update so here is a quick one. First pic is the bike 30 minutes after I got it. Tore off the touring fairing, trunk, rack and hiways bars. It was perty darn dirty. Second pic is a bit cleaned up. She is only down two inches in the rear with shorter shocks and one in the front by sliding the tubes up the trees. Rick butler cut some of the foam out of the king/queen seat. Next weekend, the forks will drop 2 1/2 inches internally and I will still have the 1 inch to play with on the forks/trees as needed. The 16" rim and spokes are here to drop the rear another inch (currently an 18" rim) but the back tire I wanted is on backorder - http://www.bikebandit.com/product/3617 Front is already here. Still got plenty of cleaning to do but I am having a blast doing it. Had to forget powdercoating the rims and hubs because the car asked for it.
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We all complain about not enough power, not enough leg room, too cramped...etc., etc. This might be the answer. The Gunbus 410 cubic inch V-Twin motorcycles complete. The monster engine placed in a motorcycle frame of comparable size looked impossible and many who saw the photos were skeptical of the bike ever being finished but I guess Clemens F. Leonhardt is one of those persistent guys who ignores the naysayers and keeps at his work. The fuel injected, 45 degree 6728 cc / 410 cubic inch V-Twin runs through a 3-speed transmission with reverse and actually looks pretty good in its finished state compared to the initial photos. In fact, everything looks good. It puts out 523 foot pounds of torque. Seat height is 31.5 inches and overall length is 136 inches. It is a little heavy at 1433 pounds so high-speed corner carving might be an issue and there aren't any photos of the big bike on the road so I guess we'll have to wait for the road test; that is if someone can actually road test this monster. This is actually going to go into limited series production and a sidecar will be available as well which might help with balance when waiting at a light. I don't even want to think about a driveway tip-over. I think this is great! Now, where's the video? What can I say? Bragging rights? You bet! Grin factor? 100%! Pucker factor? Off the charts!!!! LOL! I want one!!
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I'm going to have my German buddy to translate this. I'm thinking the motor is 410 cubic inches! http://estb.msn.com/i/66/1290F923A63CCDBD1DD47A404144.jpg http://estb.msn.com/i/6A/14D0CDB2974C29194D9C8F1C99D.jpg http://auto.de.msn.com/news/artikel.aspx?cp-documentid=8914324
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I'm using stock bars with 1 1/2 risers right now. I'm thinking about trying the RSTD stock bars with no risers. I decided to brave the weather and see how the RSTD bars would fit. It was a brutal 75 degrees with a 10 mph wind from the south, but I know you folks wanted to know. I put on shorts, sunscreen and a cap and got started. First thing I looked at was how the bar end weights attached. Not even close. If I'm going to use these bars, I'll need RSTD weights. Anyone have a good picture of what the RSTD weights look like on the bike? I only took two measurements for position comparison. I measured perpendicular from the top of the pivot point on the shifter to the center of the bar at that point. About 30 inches. I measured from the widest point on the fairing to the center of the bar end (not the weight). About 8.5 inches. With the RSTD bars, the first measurement remained about 30 inches. The other measurement was now about 9 inches. I was a little surprised that they didn't pull back a little more, but that is a 1/2" more than with the 1 1/2" risers. First thing I noticed with the RSTD bars in place was the open center space. The bars passed to the outside of the speakers. I think I like that. One drawback for some is that I'm not sure the cigarette lighter type power point will be easily accessable. I have never used mine so not a problem. The throttle cable looks like it will need replacing. The risers have it stretched pretty tight in a full right turn. The clutch and upper brake look like they might work stock, but I think to be safe, I'll go a little longer. I expect the same cables and hoses used for the Flanders conversion would work here also. No way to judge comfort or picking up more wind on the hands due to the width until I actually do it and ride some. I'm sure I'll end up doing this, but it may be a few weeks. I have some other stuff I want to look into before I get started. One other thing you might have noticed in the attachments. The larger mirrors. I always hated the view from the stock mirrors. They may look good on the bike, but I couldn't see enough in them. These are about perfect for me. My only complaint is they are easy to move. I haven't had riding affect them yet, but it doesn't take much to move them. I like to hang my helmet on the right mirror and I usually end up needing to readjusting it. Time will tell how well they hold up, but for $25 + $13 shipping, I'm happy. Here is a link to a set he has for sale and a link to his store.
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:sick:Hey, I need some professional advice here. I have a 99 RSV with 98K on the clock. The bike is running smooth and strong, but since it had been over a year since I had checked the carb balance I thought now would be a good time. After warming up the bike, I hooked up the gages and to my suprise I got some really strange readings. Both of the left hand cylinders were reading close to 12 inches of vacume which I would expect to be low. The two right hand cylinder readings were swinging so wildly they were totally unreadable. Thinking there may be something wrong with my gages (?two of them?) I swaped them around with the same results. I slowly increased the RPM and at what I judge to be around 1300-1500 RPMs the right hand gages suddenly stabalized and read within a couple inches of the left side (12 inches). Returned to idle and the gages started swinging again. Now if this were my car, I would say that only 12 inches of vacume was late ignition timing or a vacume leak. With electronic timing and multiple carbs probably not. The wildly swinging gages would indicate a burnt valve, but a valve that bad should be detectable in the way the bike runs. And two valves on the same side at the same time is a bit of a stretch. Can anyone point me to a solution? What vacume readings do you experience.
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Hello Everyone, Thinking about buying a piggy back trailor. But have some questions. Here goes, does anyone have one? And how do you like it. also looked at the XL with the 12 inch chrome tires. The little trailor has a tongue length of only 33 inches and the xl is 45 inches. Which one would tow better? Theres a 200 hundered dollars difference in price. Any help would be great! :confused24::confused24:
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Ok which one of you up North pointed the snow our direction? Frogman picked me up from work around midnight and when I looked outside at Noon this is what it looked like.(See photo's Below) We got 5 inches in 12 hours and still snowing. Calling for 1-3 more tonight and in the teens.YUCK! So much for spring in West Virginia.
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Took my RSV to a local 5 star rated dealership to have passing lamps and a wider windshield installed. Although all the parts were there when I dropped the bike off, it still took a week to get it done. Then, when I go to pick up the bike, there is severe damage to to the fairing (i.e. a scrape 3 inches wide and 18 inches long), left lower (i.e. outer edge scraped), highway peg bent to a 45 degree angle revealing that they had obviously dropped the bike. The illegal alien employee who pushed my bike out on to the parking lot swore in broken English that he knew nothing about the damage. Needless to say, I went balistic. The service manager said he would have to investigate to make sure I had not brought the bike in already damaged. WTF? When he saw that I was about to get midevil on him he changed his toon and said they'd make it right. Doesn't anyone take responsibility for their actions anymore? I am so fed up with the level of incompetence of these metric bike dealerships (Yamaha & Honda both), I feel like saying screw it and just going back to Harley Davidsons. At least they know how to treat a customer after the sale. Their customer service is first rate. Sorry for the rant but I'm just sick of this crap.
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I just read some posts on 'Winterizing' our scoots, and am clear on all concerns except one: Having the wheels off the ground. Now, I don't have any such equipment that would allow the raising & holding of my bike, a few inches above ground so that its wheels aren't making contact with the ground, and I was wondering if it would be all right to place a length of wood beneath the wheels so that they aren't contacting the concrete floor. Please inform. -
on my 2005 RSV, a couple of weeks ago someone here had done that ? I put the Baron's rear end lowering kit on, so now I'd like to lower the front end the full 1 1/2 inches? Thanks in advance for any advice or instructions.
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