vzuden

I remove, clean, and repack my steering head bearings and swing arm bearings every 16,000 - 20,000 miles. On my second gen it was a little more critical the first time because Yamaha was notorious for having almost no grease on either at assembly. Steering head one weekend and swing arm the following. I do it in the winter when I am not interfering with riding. I enjoy the work and the confidence there will be no or few surprises during the riding season. All bolts are torqued to spec and all components removed are cleaned and polished at reassembly. My 4 wheel vehicles are maintained at the manufacturer intervals - not the “dealer recommendations “. But in my advancing years these vehicles are serviced at the dealership. But I do have them convinced they must allow me in the shop as the work is performed.

Not sure the brand of mine but it looks just like yours. It’s my second one and they last several years. I have a new F150 extended cab now and the same cover fit my previous GMC. The GMC had 250,000 miles and the second cover was moved to the Ford which now has 50,000. We had 5 inches of heavy wet snow last week and it didn’t have any affect on it. My truck stays outside 100% of the time. I have a spray in bed liner and have no trouble with tailgate. Mine has the step in the gate and power remote. I can use the fob to open the gate and 99% of the time the gate drops open with no assist. The current cover has one small issue. When opening back upon itself, the clamps to secure it drop down and the threaded bolts are pointed downward. There is potential of them poking holes in the vinyl. They are a friction fit to snap up horizontally but this is worn out. Sometime soon I am going to 3D print a couple of small retainers to secure them.

In addition to adding the relay to the passing lamp circuit you can remove even more load from the problematic ignition switch. We have a member who produces and sells a relay set up to further take load off the switch. Very simple to install

As mentioned, raising the rear about an inch makes a world of difference. If you can handle a slightly taller seat height it works great. However if this makes the seat to high you can accomplish the same thing by sliding the forks higher into the triple tree, thus lowering the front the same amount.

Make sure you get one for the Venture and not Tour Deluxe (RSTD). They look similar but do not interchange

2010 had the cat in the right pipe. I tried to remove it and made a mess of it. The pipes were given to me so I had nothing in them. Went on eBay and found somebody selling a left pipe for $25. I know mine flow equally since they are the same and nobody knows the difference. I bought chrome clamps but don’t recall what I paid but they were expensive and look good

I prefer CounterAct beads. All work the same but I reuse them and they seem to last longer than the Dynabeads

I agree. Puc’s videos are not present on the iPad. They stopped with his current trip and purchase of the new car.

I have one of the Harbor Freight stands but have never taken it out of the box. I use Counterac beads (like them better than the Dyna beads)

The borescopes work great. You will be able to the entire top of the piston. You may have to rotate the engine slightly (after scope is out!)

The first thing I would check would be all grounds. Even to the point of taking the bolts out, cleaning and reinstalling them. Sometimes they look good from the outside but not so in reality. You could also string a jumper to the ground side of the light that is is not working. One end on the battery negative and the other to the affected light ground portion of the socket.

i am pretty sure Mike has been doing some diamond cutting for the new Ventures. In my opinion the new models need a little of that plus the pinstriping

i agree, Casey, my helmets (Shoei) cost more than that without the AC so they must be scaling back somewhere

An 83 first Gen with tons of room for hauling stuff and stickers! https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/mcy/d/1983-yamaha-ventura-royale-v4/6687249564.html

Powering the passing lamps via a relay is a common practice and in my opinion the best way

$297.00 annual for full coverage with 300,000 limits with $5k accessories with Dairyland Isurance

My first car was a ‘62 Chev Impala but I fell for a new ‘74 Chev Nova, never forgetting how I much I liked the ‘62. Not long after buying the Nova, I had a desire for a street rod so I bought a ‘34 Chev 5 window coupe, fender less, small block Chev - still have it. Then I thought I wanted a ‘55 Chev so I bought a ‘55 Belair sport coupe - still have it. Never losing my desire for a ‘62 Impala I came across one at a car show and left my business card with the owner with the request that if he ever wanted sell it, let me know. 2-3 years later that call came. I still have it. About four years ago I realize I have a motor vehicle from every decade from the 30’s to the 2010’s so why not add a something from the ‘20’s? I found an all original 25 Chevrolet Touring. I still have it. With all of the cars, trucks, tractors, and cycles I am not interested in adding more, but who knows!

never had to remove or plug one. Check for exhaust leak but syncing carbs should fix it

many of us have raised the rear about an inch to make the bike handle better. Others lower the front by either switching to the 130 tire or sliding the forks up in the triple tree. Either way makes a big difference

Many years ago I was employed at a new car dealership and we had a car traded in that was only a few years old with really low miles on it. It resold quickly at a most likely higher than normal price due to the low miles. It came back in a short time smoking and burning oil. We took the valve cover off and it was completely full of sludge. We eventually found that the original owner followed a strict oil change interval of every 2,000 miles. The problem was it took her two years or more to accumulate those miles. Not many understand the need to change it by time or miles elapsed whichever comes first

A common motorcycle jack works (I have a Craftsman) but you need to add some blocks of wood or hockey pucks for spacers. The best thing is to use is a lift adapter that attaches to the bottom of the bike for the jack to lift against. One of our members, CarbonOne, makes and sells them. I highly recommend going the extra step to purchase the support legs. With them you raise the bike, insert the legs, let the jack down so the weight is now on the legs and you can pull the jack completely out allowing easier access to work. After using the adapter I can’t believe I actually messed with the blocks as long as I did.

RSTD or Venture makes no difference as they are the same power plant. My ‘06 RSTD had it pretty bad

I use the Counteract brand of beads. They are made of glass rather than ceramic. I’ve not confirmed but I understand they are slightly smaller diameter and since they are glass are less likely to build up static and cling to the fill tube. I have never had any trouble simply pouring them in slowly

By its nature, a little oil goes a long ways and it spreads easily. It is hard to say, but I suspect you may be better off draining a little.

Chuck, the 4-2-4’s are baffled and have fiberglass packing. Yours were newly repacked when you bought them