vzuden

I used to use Panadora but switched to IHeartRadio because I think there are fewer commercials. Free versions of both

I never had the need to tie a clutch or brake lever back on a Venture but I did so several times on mid seventies Honda front brakes. The theory is that the random air bubbles want to rise and do so on their own and eventually find their way to the atmosphere. I didn’t do this as standard procedure, only on the stubborn ones and with success.

I bought them on eBay for my current and previous bikes. Sheepskin97 is the seller

Agreed. That is what I did with mine. I think I used a little moly lube. I don’t think you will need to open them up much

I carry a small compressor in my saddle bag. Added an external power outlet for that and other power needs

Not my bike. The picture was the work of the diamondcut guy and I am pretty sure he cut the fins after someone had painted them to match the bike

The dog bones are the front motor mounts

When looking for a cover I have found this to be a key feature (copied from the one in Condor's link): Weather-protected venting allows vapor escape and helps eliminate condensation

I believe you are thinking of @Rickbutler

Maybe I’m lucky but I have had mine for nearly 6 years without a problem. It is a Custom Dynamics and it did cost a little more

You can purchase wide chrome clamps to use instead of those. I am not close to my bike right now but I think those I have are 1 1/2 inches wide

Take look at the date code on your tires. If they are 5 years or older they need to be replaced and that should make your decision easier. i had an Avon Venom once but on the rear so if it were to have any negative impact on handling I probably didn’t feel it. I had a flat on a trip so I was at the mercy of the closest dealer and it was all they had in stock. That tire served me well and I replaced it at 20,000 miles. Other than that one, all others are E3’s. By the way, Jake Wilson usually has the best price with fast service.

I was listening to a MC podcast a week or two ago and the speaker was relating how he drove his Zero through a stream. The bike was set up as an off-road version with knobby tires. As he proceeded the water level was over the handlebars so it was completely submerged. He crossed or rode through the stream, climbed the bank on the other side, turned around and crossed back over again. Then he had a one hour ride home. It never missed a beat

Dakota, Another thing to look at would be the front tire size. Some of us have switched to the 130 size tire in order to improve low speed handling. I have not done so because in reading posts from others there is a concern of it affecting higher speed handling in a detrimental way. I improved my low speed handling by raising the rear at the shock by changing out the leveling links. Others have accomplished the same by lowering the front at the forks but this would be more for those who cannot afford the slightly higher seat position. It could be your previous owner has changed links/lowered forks plus changed the tire size. I would tend to lean towards the forks being lowered as that may have contributed to your dented front fender. As already mentioned, look into the steering head bearing adjustment. There is a description in the tech area of how to test. Then a shortcut to adjust plus the more involved cleaning and repacking the bearings with adjustment to follow. Personally, I repack the head bearings and the swing arm bearings every 20,000 miles.

i had the tips on all the time so I can't really say whether I would have like them without. They rotate via a set screw so you can direct them to any angle you want

No. Ran like a top to 50,000 miles. I pulled them off when I traded it in on my new one and put back the original mufflers. Sold them to one of our members and I'm pretty sure he's still running with them. I did repack them before I sold them as I was planning on putting them on the new bike but went with Harley take offs instead.

Many of us have installed spacer to move the driving lamps out away from the fairing. You don't have loosen them to split the fairing. Plus it makes for a little easier cleaning and polishing

I had Baron 4-2-4's on my RSTD. They are loud and sound good. Simple to slip on

Just like the Amphibicars of the 1960's!

To elaborate a little - to sync your gauges you pull the same vacuum on all and each gauge has an adjustment.

I use a long Phillips to adjust the left bank from the right side when syncing. Maybe 16"?

Never had to remove more than the front motor mounts to replace the plugs. Tank removal is easy and does make the access to the sp plugs easier but it is not necessary

I agree with you Rick. The 2nd Gens weren't selling well so Yamaha had to make a change. Their marketing research led them to what they are offering today. That research could be flawed but it is what it is and if they have made a mistake they will have to correct it in time. If they would have asked me I would have recommended our good ol' V-4 but they didn't and obviously even if they had, I would have been in the minority because not enough others wanted it.

Wheel balance comes into play only at 40-45MPH + since that is when the centrifugal forces take over. I suspect steering head bearing issue