vzuden

You rebuilt mine this past winter and while I have it reinstalled, I haven’t had the bike out yet this year

I don't think the 2nd Gens have that second bleeder screw. I change my fluid in the front and rear brakes plus the clutch every two years. I have never had any problem with bleeding them the more conventional way I think you are familiar with, John.

I think Doug is referring to the 2nd Gen Tech section of this forum. But to answer your question, I would put it inside the fairing. Taking the top off the fairing is pretty simple..

@eagleeye, I agree with what Craig said about the handling on the highway with the smaller size. Have you changed the rake of your bike by raising the rear or lowering the front? Raising the rear about an inch with the shorter leveling links made a difference in the low speed handling of my last two bikes without sacrificing highway stability.

Illinois has the same. But the marijuana dispensaries are "essential businesses" in Illinois too and are still open.

small open trailer typically hauling a cycle brings it to 14-15mpg

I bought a new one with the twin turbo's - 2017 model. In February it was 2 years old with just under 90,000 miles. No problems at all and gets 19-20 MPG without a trailer.

I found mine leaking oil last fall - 2 weeks after the five year warranty was to have ended. I took it to the local dealer who, after two weeks, said he couldn't get his "rep" to respond, and suggested I call Yamaha customer assistance. I called and got through to a rep right away. She listened to my story - my second Yamaha (first was RSTD), the shock was obviously leaking prior to warranty expiration, and not a single other warranty claim on this bike in five years. She placed me on hold to check with her manager and came back and said no coverage since it was a "wear item". I explained my last bike had the leaking rear shock replaced under warranty during the five years and she said "sorry". Sorry, Yamaha, last new Yamaha for me.

If you were to get the adapter it would place the jack in just the spot. Without the adapter you most likely will need to get a few blocks of wood to use as spacers

Not a doctor but....As we age our bones get more brittle, there's nothing we can do about it, you very well could have cracked/broken a vertebrae. This could have caused the symptoms with your arms. I would be concerned that another slight bump or just turning your head could cause a chip or bone to shift and cause permanent damage.

@cowpuc one of the benefits of strengthening the 2nd gen front crash bars is the removal of flex in them when attaching highway pegs. Without bracing, the crash bars flex and crack the mounts for the lower fairings. Carbonone’s braces or similar beef them up.

There will be another group just south of you that weekend. The annual Root Beer Run will be in Galena this year

I have tried Clymer for different bikes and have found them to usually be inadequate. I use the online manuals sometimes but I prefer to print them, three hole punch them, and put the pages in a three ring binder. You can write on the pages, making notes, reminders, sketch drawings, sometimes conversion of metric measurements, and then print a new page if you ruin one. The wiring diagrams are best in color and those I usually use digitally.

Sorry DuRon, but he started the side tracking. @cowpuc, I too, had good luck with Moen. Mine was 20+ years old and loose at the base. I called for parts and they sent a complete brand new faucet.

I ride to the office - about 30 minutes (one way) of primarily 65MPH interstate highway almost every day. I wear a Tourmaster jacket with a liner that is about 10 years old, full face helmet, and gauntlet type gloves. Just jeans, casual shoes, and a long sleeve shirt otherwise. The lowest temperature when I leave home (before daylight) is 28 degrees with daytime highs in the 40's. If there is heavy frost or ice I don't ride. If am going for a longer ride in these temps I will wear leather chaps, leather boots, add a sweatshirt, glove liners, and a neck cover thing. I usually can ride, in central Illinois, until Thanksgiving or the first week of December. Always a full face/modular helmet regardless the time of year but when the temps start dropping below 50 I add the pin lock screen to the visor. Best thing ever for no fogging.

i am running with two left mufflers. There is a slight depression on the one on the right side but one has to really look hard to see it once it is installed. It’s a clearance resessed area. I think they sound good. I had a set from a 2010? Road King given to me. The right one had the cat so I bought another left one on eBay for less than $20.

Premium is only higher octane for reducing detonation in higher compression engines. It is not a “better” fuel. It costs more because the oil companies can get it because they have a captive customer base.

My 2006 had a pretty strong gear whine. I waited until it was almost out of the five year warranty and then brought it to the dealer for the newer basket. I don’t recall the letter designation on either one. I don’t think it helped much and didn’t really care since it doesn’t hurt anything. My 2012 has a little gear whine but I don’t listen for it,

Rode to my local dealer to see if they will replace my leaking rear shock under warranty. I am 45 days beyond the end of the original 5 year term of the warranty. They said they will have to call their factory rep.

Use a little dab of silicone caulk. It will dry to a rubbery consistency and keep the bolt from loosening but still allow future deliberate removal. Biggest benefit is it saves your plastic (ABS)

Still riding - average 15,000 mi a year on the Venture. My pickup is averaging 35,000 annual so I spend a fair amount of time on the road. Business travel is additional - California last week and Northern Ohio the week before. With all of that I still check in almost every day.

Pull your fuel tank off and then the covers to plastic air inlet boxes. You most likely will find oil. If so, clean it all out and check your crankcase oil level. I keep mine at midway or slightly below that on the sight glass. Any greater and it pulls oil up into the air intake. This is with the bike level - propped up with some blocks of wood of varying thickness duct taped together under the side stand just for this purpose.

I've cleaned a few rusty tanks with surface rust (not bad flaky stuff) with white vinegar which is basically an acid. Remove the tank and the petcock, cap off the petcock hole, fill er up with vinegar, it's cheap, and let it sit for a few hours. Slosh it around, dump it, rinse with water thoroughly, and then blow it out well with air from a compressor. Make sure the compressor has a drier/water separator on it so you aren't introducing more water. As soon as you have the water blown out, I dump in some 2 cycle mix I have for my weed eater. You don't need much - maybe a quart - just enough to slosh around and coat all surfaces inside before it starts to surface rust as it can do in minutes. Dump out the mix, reinstall and fill it up with new gas.

Do you have the braces on the engine guards (they go from the guard to the footrest mount)? Larry (CarbonOne) used to make them. If you have hiway pegs on the guards the braces are highly recommended or you will continue to break the lowers.

Is your fuel turned off? Could you be getting fuel into your crankcase due to stuck float valve?