bongobobny

Yup, just barely broken in Reiny! Feel free to contact us with your questions. It won't as fast as your 1st gen or the Wing, but it sure is comfy!!!

In a pinch you can reuse a copper crush washer if you first flat lap each side with a medium fine sandpaper such as 320 grit or emory cloth. To flat lap you place the sandpaper on a flat surface and then rub the washer in a figure 8 pattern by holding it flat on the paper with your finger. Do both sides of the washer. It is better to replace, but if your lovely dealer does not have one this method will work...

When I read that he was a lawyer those were my thoughts exactly...

Now that's just bizarre...

Yeah! Where did you measure that Jeff??

Hmmm, not understanding why bouncing the front end should make a difference in current. A solenoid is a solenoid regardless. Interesting that you are reading an amp more per solenoid but my test was just the solenoid and a battery. I can see more initial current with fluid but once a solenoid closes the current should level out. Regardless, lets do some load calculations. let's assume you are at a stop for 3 minutes. 5 amps per minute equals 15 amp minutes divided by 60 minutes per hour equals 0.25 amp hours. If that is going to kill your battery then Houston we have a problem...

I'll almost bet that at one time in it's life the bike was trailered and they used the handlebars to tie it down. Bends them every time...

PS I used a digital ammeter in series, not an amp clamp...

Interesting! There was a similar product out earlier but the downside was that soap would wash the stuff off...

OK I just did a bench test on an antidive solenoid and was quite surprised to find out they draw about 1.5 amps each, a little higher than the solenoids I'm used to working with. That means they are drawing around 36 watts total or leas than one driving light assuming 55 watts or the same as one 35 watt driving lamp. Hardly what I would call a huge draw...

Here's the schematic... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/84-85%20Yamaha%20Venture%20L%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf As you can see, the B/W wire has many things affecting it such as the tip over switch, the sidestand relay, and when in neutral the diode assembly...

OK there are a multitude of components that can kill your ignition. Under what condition are you trying to start? Kickstand down or up? Neutral? Clutch in or out? All these items play a role in the starting circuit as well as the tip over sensor. There are some excellent schematics in the read only tech section if you can understand schematics...

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Steve!! Enjoy!!

...or as we call it around here, "As The Wheel Turns!"

The answer is going to depend on your personality, whether or not you like working for a living, how important is money to you, etc. Also, your health is a huge factor! I was the type to keep working long past retirement but my health went downhill so I quit at 65. Health care costs are horrible enough when you are healthy but if you need drugs and doctor's visits it really gets expensive...

OK tire sizes, what do the numbers mean. The first number is the distance from bead to bead. The second number is the ratio of sidewall height to the first number. A 70 series is a skinny but tall tire. An 40 series is wider and shorter. Keep in mind there are 2 sides so for an 40 series each side is 20% of the total distance of the first number for a total of 40%. Now with motorcycle tires their structure is different from a car tire so you still have a curved surface rather than a flat surface for the road contact area. For those that don't know, the third number is the diameter of the rim. OK the previous owner probably went to the smaller 90 series tire to substitute for a lowering kit to help out with the low speed handling. The downside is with a wider tire you have more contact area which will offer more rolling resistance which is going to compromise your turning speed but on the other hand a narrow tire won't grip as well at the same time. Bottom line. As previously mentioned no two riders are the same just as no two motorcycles are identical so the final choice will be yours to decide. What one rider thinks is an excellent tire another will think is a piece of crap! My choice was Dunlop E-3's which wear like iron but I was looking for a tire to last the longest. I'm not the performance type rider I was in my younger days (but still drive somewhat aggressive) so the choice was good for me. Others feel the Michelin is a great tire. We all agree the Brickstones are terrible, and the Dunlop D404 doesn't last long but is a good tire. So, whatever your choice I just hope they work out for you...

Not necessarily but follow the instructions of your eye doctor. Avoid riding for a week or two. The real answer is when you are able to tolerate the bright outside. You are going to be amazed at the difference, colors are brighter! You will think the 60's are back! When your first eye is done you will probably be comparing your vision from one to the other by alternately closing each eye...

Generally, solenoids nominally draw about 1/2 amp or less. There is an initial spike when it first energizes but that only lasts a fraction of a second...

What is this "WORK" you speak of???

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Ruffy!!!

The most common cause for CEL is evaporative leak detected, usually someone forgot to tighten their gas cap, but it can be a multitude of reasons. Generally if the light is on constant it is just some error code, but if it is flashing it is more serious. Sometimes it is the sensor itself that has gone bad. With the mileage you are mentioning, I'll almost bet it is an O2 sensor gone bad. If you go to an Auto Zone or similar store they will read the code for free. Also check your owner's manual for a method you can read the code, usually by turning the key on and off five times in a row or something like that, and then look up the code on an online web service...

:sign woo hoo::sign woo hoo:

Your buddies are misinformed, the TCI does go bad! Also the price you were quoted for a stator is highway robbery!!! The Heavy Duty versions go for well under $200...

Yes you can but for your own safety I would recommend not...

Yup! Air pockets are a PITA to avoid on any vehicle and Peder described them perfectly!