dingy

Wouldn't it be the right side that needs removed? That is the side the axle has to be pulled from. Gary

Make me an offer I can't refuse !! Gary

You click on manage attachements, add pictures, then click post (or preview). Gary

I have 2 of your braces & would possibly take another if you have one. Gary

2nd & 4th posts in thread linked below show steps to link pictures. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037 Gary

That's his good side !! Gary

TCI's were ordered December 1st, have all the other stuff here already. Don't have a ship date from Ignitech as usual though, they always come through. Still have several not spoken for. Gary

Bump (sound HD parts make when they fall off) ???????????????? Gary

I found you !!! This is Yammer Dan, not me. I still have hair !!! 2012 & 2013 at Oberlin. Gary

Have never done this on a motor in the bike, but have numerous passes at doing it on bench. To change the cams, you need to remove the cam adjuster that are on the rear of each head. 2 ten mm hex head cap screws in each adjuster. You will probably need to replace gasket under each tensioner. This will allow cam chains to have maximum slack. Remove cap screws from each of the 4 cam shaft caps. These caps are numbered 1~4 on each head, cast into cap, but there is no notation on them for front or rear head. They MUST be placed back in same head as they are removed from. They are snug fit over 2 dowel pins into the head, takes a little jiggling to get them off. You can put a screw into the valve cover screw hole to use to help remove them. The cams are somewhat difficult to get clear of the chains, not much slack in them. Gently work them out. This is in service manual under 'Engine Disassembly' section. I think if cam gears are unscrewed from cam, it would be a little easier to get cams out. Putting cams back in is basically reverse of above, but now cam timing marks must be set correctly. The front and rear heads are different on setting. This is detailed in service manual in 'Engine Assembly and Adjustment' section. When cam chain tensioners are replaced, the large nut on tensioner is removed in order to allow the ratchet mechanism to be retracted. You will need to check valve clearances after swapping cams. Shims should be close to stock cams. I have 1 pair of VMax cams in good condition. $100 and shipping. Front & rear head cams are identical, position of cam gear is in different though on intake & exhaust cams. Not sure what it will do for mileage, wasn't a concern when I was VMax'ing my 83. It will help improve power somewhat. To further help power & RPM range, valve spring change to VMax springs is very helpful. This requires heads to be pulled. There is a way to do it with heads on, but I wouldn't recommend it. Picture attached of rear of motor on bench, cam tensioner is not in head in picture. Hole for it is to right of left exhaust where it connects to head. Front head tensioner hole is shown in top view of motor, front of motor to left. Tensioner hole is between the 2 intake ports on front head, this will be under carbs. Last picture is looking into rear head with valve cover off. All pictures are of 1st gen 1300 motors, but it should be very similar to yours. Gary

Little more detailed way to do this. Attached is a screen shot of where you need to go to set to save messages. After you click on 'User CP' in left column, In the 'Settings & Options, block, click on 'Edit Options. This will bring up screen that is in attached picture. In the Private Messaging block, click on 'Save a copy of sent messages....' Gary

I am working somewhat with a 1200 VMax owner that lives very close to me. He got a Fuel Injected Ignitech module through me. He is in process of adapting it to the VMax this winter. Gary

Some pictures of these lower side covers on some VMax's that I took in Johnstown PA at Rolling Thunder in 2012. We were getting dyno's done and there were some high power VMax's there. Couple of 1st gen's dyno'd over 200 RWHP with a streetable bike. Sean Morly's VMax face page is linked below. He is currently building a 88 Venture into a bike like Tweety. His will be a little more glamorous, putting a set of Camozzi wheels on it for one thing. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Morleys-Muscle/282702488678?ref=ts Web site: http://www.morleysmuscle.com Gary

I work with Sean Morley on a few projects. Very knowledgable person. Gary

What is difference between models or years. When is groove present, only on say 86 & up???? Gary

I have seen these on a couple of VMaxs. I was looking on EBay for a set this weekend. I think they might be made by Python. Gary

Squidley, I refer you to thread below !! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 I would think a fine Naval NCO such as yourself would do this. Gary

Looks like 96 and on Royal Stars, any 2nd gen Venture. Also VMaxs from 94 on will have the 4 brush starter you want. Key is to look at parts fiche and see if the brush set is p/n 3AJ-80801-00-00, this is the 4 brush starter brush set. Attached is a picture of part fiche for the 96 Royal Star. Link to web site is: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1996/V-MAX%20-%20VMX1200H/STARTING%20MOTOR/parts.html Gary

Sent you PM on air cleaner shipping. What fairing and quick connects did you use? Interested in that for the Hybrid. Your Photobucket pictures will be helpful. Haven't seen many detailed pictures of this bike disassembled like you have there. Got the bike in pieces, and all my experience with Ventures has been 1st gen. Gary

That would have been first marriage, other than two boys I have, it was a mess. Gary

By the looks of the valve at the top of the line, I think it is the overflow line to the fuel tank. I have a spare air cleaner like yours, in case you need it. Was going to use it on the Hybrid I am building, but realized it would not fit the 1st gen carbs. Don't need it so it is yours for shipping if you find you need one. Sometimes spares come in handy when plan 'A' doesn't work!! Gary

The one you linked to above has the battery posts flipped for use in a 1st gen I think. I believe the one that is needed is a Deka 18, not the 18L Been wrong one other time though. Hate when that happens. Gary

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82733 TCI's are ordered, MAP sensors and all other components of kits will be here today. Do not know a ship date for TCI's. Gary

Got the front tank mounts fabricated today. Tank had to be moved rearward about an 1 1/4" to match up with seat. Moving it back also allowed for raising it up a little to clear carb covers by about a 1/4". Leather cover that was made by Ace High Leather is setting on tank. Making some progress with Hybrid, almost everything needs some sort of tweaking to get it to fit right. Tomorrow I will work on rear tank mount. Need to weld on relocated thermostat housing tabs and rework the rear head coolant pipe out of thermostat housing to clear tank. Got an early Christmas present, a small metal lathe from Harbor Freight. I had a 20% coupon that was going to expire and it was on sale, so I got almost $200 off price, about $415. Won't be something I use a lot, but it has come in handy for making a spacer to hold tank mounts at needed spacing and I have made a pair of front wheel spacers that are needed to center VMax rim in the 1st gen forks. Not a real high precision tool, but is adequate for what I need at this time. Gary

The rubber hose you are missing is to direct the fuel from the bowl out to the front side of the cards when you drain them. Also useful if you want to check the float levels. I elected to not put them on the carbs I rebuilt for the Hybrid bike I am working on. I know the floats are correct. Have never had the need to drain the carbs on Tweety (83, by title). Choice was an appearance issue for me, don't like the looks of them sticking out. I may use the holes they are supposed to stick through to mount a 'V' shaped plate beneath the carbs to cover up that area. The black fuse holder with two fuses in it is for the cruise control. I didn't think any of the 'true' 83's had cruise. There are some bikes titled 83's that are more of an 84 style though. Serial numbers on these notch bikes start with JYA47. Another way of telling is if the choke lever is below the left hand switch holder, it is an 83, if it is around the left hand grip it is an 84 style. Gary