dingy

I probably have what you need. See if it looks like spring in pictures attached. Came out of forks in 2003 RSV I got. Using bike to build RSV hybrid. Send me an address. Gary

I was looking at the draw down % backwards. 80% is probably a good number. That would leave 20% remaining in battery. Whoops !!! Gary

If it is a deep cycle battery, I would think 80% is pretty conservative on draw down. Gary

Ditto on not using JB Weld due to it possibly dislodging. It's good stuff if you need it and prep surfaces well. This is only a air jet, and a rather small one at that, #80. Parts break down refers to it as a main jet. It isn't the important main jet, which is in the fuel bowl pocket. The air flow through the rather small jet orifice will not be disrupted much at all, and if it is, passing through the jet will correct any turbulence caused by small chunk missing. Tweety has similar warts in places, and it runs OK. Gary

Good Luck !!! Gary

Below is another video clip detailing the making of the slingshot fail video at the top of this thread. Took about 15 minutes after I circulated original video at work for this video detailing how the original video was created to be located. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=0f8_1380635899&comments=1 Gary

They will interchange. 2nd gens are 4 brush starters, while all 1st gens are 2 brush. Gary

That was frigging hilarious, really. Overconfidence in engineering will bite you in the buttocks, or face, sometimes. Gary

After being involved with trailer at Intnational last year, I found that there are a lot of people that make donations to the drawing but are unable to attend. This would make hotel accomidations a turn off for those that could not be present. The donation value of hotel accomidations would be limited, unlike what a trailer is if winner didn't want it, and entered just to help the VR site. I would suggest a tiered cash award prize ala 50/50 but with at least 3 winners. I do think there would be more people prone to enter for a cash prize rather than tangible items like a trailer, gps, clothing etc. Peolple in general are very good at spending cash. The trailer concept is appealing to a lot less people than say $750 1st prize would be. Gary

She should have been riding her Moped sometime today !!! Huh Peggy ?? Gary

PM me an address, I can send you one of those gears. Free, if you register as a paying member. Already will have saved you $20. Gary

:beer: Happy birthday Peggy !!! Can't believe I am 1st one to do this on such a milestone !! Gary

Starter ground path fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Gary

Not sure what you are referring to as latching. There is no latch mechanism in stock solenoid. Thread below shows internals. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64567 One more suggestion, remove positive lead from starter, or at solenoid to starter. If solenoid still chatters, starter is not issue. Gary

Only picture I have. 9 wires into relay assy. Gary

Green plug is cruise control. Gary

I did that write up in November 2009. Switch works perfectly almost 4 years later that was cleaned when write up was done. Gary

That's only chapter 3 & 4 of the book of Tweety. This has been a multi year project. Gary

41R relay is the one that houses the starter relay and turn signal relays. About the size of a cigarette pack. It is in headlight bucket. Unique to Ventures as far as I know. Did you do 2nd Blue/White wire test? There is a thread I posted above that details step by step how to clean right side switch. Gary

It all depends on how much you want out of the bike, and how much time & money you want to invest. The VMax heads only is a straight forward swap for the Venture heads. Only real change is the side plate that covers the cylinder pocket drain plug (sometimes called a freeze plug, which it isn't). This needs to be a VMax cover, the Venture plate is longer and covers part of head. Carbs will need mains and one of the air jets changed with the VMax heads. Also needle valves should be changed to a VMax set. A set of carbs from an 86-93 Venture or a VMax are better due to being larger venturi size. You can not do this, but it will idle like crap and not develop power potential, trust me on this one. The heads will probably need completely cleaned inside by sand blasting. This requires valves to be removed, which should be reseated by lapping. New valve guide seals also. The VBoost is a whole nother can of worms. In addition to the VBoost intake assembly, a servo motor and mounting bracket is needed to operate manifold butterflies. It will not fit on the Venture in the same place it does on a VMax due to VMax's only have front coils mounted below TCI. Rear pair of coils are mounted on back end. This allows a space to mount servo motor. If you want servo motor to operate the way a VMax does, which is opening intake butterflies at 5,700 RPM's, a servo motor controller is needed. Or an Ignitech TCI can be used to replace stock TCI and it can control servo. A really tough part of getting VBoost intakes to fit is a clearance issue with the #1 carb and frame. The VBoost intakes are about 1 1/4" taller than stock. This creates an issue with #1 carb when carb rack is being installed, it just won't slide back far enough to drop into the rather stiff carb intake boots. I had to heat frame with torch at contact point and 'dimple' tube in some to get clearance to get carbs in and out. The stock air intake box will fit on the carbs without modification. Next problem is the throttle cables interfere with frame in stock configuration and need modified with VBoost intake. And the choke cable needs modified. The coolant line out of the Twinkie on the right side needs modified with VBoost. There is little difference in the lower end except for doming on VMax pistons raises compression a little. There is also a slight difference in the oil galley, the VMax has an extra bearing oiler line on it. The piston doming difference can be compensated for by either milling block head deck about 0.040" or installing thinner Comitec (sp?) head gaskets. As mentioned, the clutch should be upgraded. I didn't go Barnett route as it has limited upgrade possibilities. I used a diaphragm clutch from a 86-93 style motor and doubled the diaphragm springs. This requires a clutch cover also from an 86-93 block. You really need a strong grip on left hand as this increases pull force on lever, but it don't slip if done right. As I said, it depends one where you want to go with this. I would guesstimate $500 to $1000 to get it running decently. Carb rebuild alone, done right is at least $300 and up. Speed isn't cheap or easy. But it is an adrenalin rush. Gary

Tweety would float valves at about 8500, this was before any modifications were made to it. 8,000 rev limiter is safe setting on Ignitech. Gary

Wire retainer is on lower side of air joint. More of a formed wire than a c-clip, but does same function. Snaps in a groove in the upper fork tube. It will be right next to air joint. Will look like a bump in tube. You need to find end of wire, then with a very small screwdriver, pop one end out of groove and it can be worked out of groove easily. It is easier to lower forks in tripple trees, then tap air joint upwards. This will allow access to remove the retainer. Gary

Thread below details cleaning throttle side switch. Starter switch is at bottom of assembly, so it mostly has to come apart. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 To verify it is the switch, jumper Blue with White tracer to GROUND, with key on, at the starter solenoid first. This will verify solenoid is operating as installed. This test will bypass all safety circuits and motor will crank in gear with stand down. It could also possibly be a corroded Positive lead to the starter solenoid. Then on right control cable, there is a Blue with White tracer wire that can also be jumpered to GROUND with key on. This is wire that activates starter relay in the 41R assembly. If this one cranks motor, then starter switch is faulty. If solenoid test above cranks and this one doesn't, then 41R relay, or conections to it are probably faulty. Gary

Sensor can be pointed either way according to federal law. There are different cutoff values for which way sensor is oriented. It would depend on mfg of sensor as to correct orientation. This is detailed in section S7.9.4.1 (f) of attached federal law. Does the high/low beam switch between bulbs correctly in day? If it does, system is probably wired correctly but has an internal failure in modulator. Call manufacturer for their input. Gary

I at first misread title to thread, thought it was: Horny Eck meets motorcycle !!! Gary