dingy

The schematics that I posted are wrong as far as this part is concerned. I showed it on the 86-93 1st gens. The parts fiche only shows it in 86 & 87 though as Micarl stated. Gary

If you are jumping around CMU panel & headlights work, then you have an issue inside the CMU panel. Jumping externally around the CMU should correct the headlight problem, but it will then give you the flashing warning light. Warning light can be bypassed by installing jumpers referenced in post #18. This jumpers only corrects the warning light issue, it does not address the root cause of the open circuit inside the panel or connectors leading into CMU. You do not need to jumper the brake light or running lights at this point. Gary

Nice animation and info on how a 4 stroke motor works. http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2013/09/four-stroke-engines-simply-illustrated-the-best-info-graphic-we-have-seen/ Gary

Couple of pictures attached showing what it looks like with access to tank. Gary

Link below to simplified schematics http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20TK%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf In a bar watching ohio state game. Hard to see schematic on phone. Gary

If meter lights are out, this indicates power supply issue. Meter lights are right off start switch.

Power goes to RLU from start switch. Then to hi lo switch. Then to CMU. Then to headlight.

Right one appears to be a stock spring. Gary

RLU does not control the dash illumination. It does control the high beam and reserve light. The start switch however is common to the dash illumination and the RLU circuit. When starter is engaged this switch interrupts current to RLU and dash lights. There is a write up on 'correctly' cleaning it linked below, there are other options like contact cleaner, which may remove lettering on switch housing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Gary

No, it is harder with the wrench I will admit. Gary

Hooking that wire to 12V without the resistor will fry a CMU everytime. Thread shows jumpers for MKI bike in it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68851 Gary

Wrench that Yamaha Service manual calls for is available below. This is identical in size and shape to factory tool at less than half the price. Made out of 1/4" 304 stainless steel that has been laser cut. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4701&title=steering-head-wrench-2c-fits-all-ventures26amp-3b-stars&cat=33 $25.00 includes US shipping. It's not that 'fancy' either, just correct tool for the job. Some people don't want to use a hammer & screwdriver to adjust this rather important component. Gary

There would have been an extra one at the International I beleive. Trailer winner had a 1st gen. I don't know who had the RSV one. Gary

If you have a VMax final drive housing that has been modified for the spped sensor, the shock boss will be machined to accept shock. This would be an indicator that you do have a VMax final drive. However, the absence of the shock mount machining will not rule out that the gear set was swapped into a stock RSTD housing. Easiest way to tell is to remove speed sensor on final drive and count teeth on pinion gear as wheel is rotated one full revolution on each bike. Venture is a 10:33 (3.3) ratio & Vmax is 9:33 (3.67) ratio. Gary

Be happy he didn't use skivvies!!! Gary

#2 throttle plate is adjusted by the idle setting screw. No 'sync' screw for this carb. Set #2 closed then match other 3 to it. I see Prarriehammer already mentioned this after I rerad post, hate when I double up on someones already correct answer. Gary

There is an o-ring inside of cap. Snug fit over wire. Gary

RLU does not control the dash illumination. It does control the high beam and reserve light. The start switch however is common to the dash illumination and the RLU circuit. When starter is engaged this switch interrupts current to RLU and dash lights. There is a write up on 'correctly' cleaning it linked below, there are other options like contact cleaner, which may remove lettering on switch housing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Gary

It will not have the same diode arrangement as the 83-89 units. 83-89 were an analog style circuitry, essentially there were four separate circuits, one for each cylinder. In 1990 Yamaha went to a digital style setup. With this there is now a wasted spark style were every plug fires once a revolution instead of once every other. Pickup coils went from four to a single pickup. Nothing mechanical changed in the motor other than lobes on stator. Minor wiring harness changes. I don't know the fine points of what Yamaha changed, but there have been very few reports of problems with the 1990 & newer TCI's on Ventures or the VMax's that I am aware of. Something to look at is the connector from pickup coil to harness. I have seen this connector cause complete failure of TCI in earlier models. It will be a 2 pin connector on left side of bike behind cover plate near shock damper (not middle drive cover). One Orange and one Black wire. Ohms between wires should be 81~121 ohms. No continuity on either wire to ground. Both checks are on pickup coil side of connector, don't put ohm meter on harness side. Clean contacts best up can, spade side is easy, female side is harder. Are you noticing a tach drop out at same time, hard to catch, but it would be another clue to whats happening. Gary

Look at schematic cut in post #4. You can put a GROUND signal on each of the 6 wires coming from the switch plate at the CMU head without harming anything. Nothing that will backfeed into something unintended. Color codes are shown, there are no duplicates of colors in that connector. Color code chart is attached below, also on schematics linked below. Not sure which year bike you are working on. Schematics are located at link below. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary

Not much yet, but it will be. 2003 RSV starting point, VMax configured 1300 motor, wheels & final drive. 1st gen front end. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74692 Gary

I am almost sure the advance curve will be a little more aggressive, but it will work on the Venture. Exact same connectors. I would still like to get temporary use of your Ignitech unit so I can put it on my bike. I can put a video camera aimed right at tach to get proof for Ignitech that the early V88 had this dropout issue. I will get it replaced or send it back. Gary

I also have an extra after market (Athena) middle drive cover gasket, $5.00 more. You are going to have to pull middle cover off to get stator cover off. Gary

How bad you need one? I have a new stator cover gasket and an overnight shipping flat rate envelope. I could ship it tomorrow, and you would have it Thursday. $35.00, with paypal. Gary

Jonas, I talked to you about this at WNY rally. Said then electrical problems were tough to troubleshoot when you are standing by bike, let alone half a world away. I attached a reduced complexity version of the RSV wiring diagram. This is all circuits on the bike, but without the connectors shown. This makes layout of the circuits easier. Your problem is going to probably be in upper left quadrant of the attached PDF. 1st thing to try would be to pull every fuse except the main fuse. There are 10 of them in 2 locations. I think other fuse block is in right knee fairing. This will severely limit the extent of the normal paths for current flow. Probably, nothing will work on bike with all fuses pulled. Next, take a volt meter, negative lead to ground. Positive side, take and check BOTH sides of each fuse for a 12v reading. Do this with key ON. You should read 12v on one side of fuse holder, this is normal feed from battery, if on any fuse, you read 12v on both sides of fuse holder, this will be an indication that that circuit has an unintended cross connection to 12v source. If none of the fuses holders have an unexpected reading that will narrow down source of cross feed, (AKA short, I hate that term). Put all the fuses back in, proper amp reading in each. Sizing is on attached PDF. Now pull the main fuse at the starter solenoid, left side cover near battery. Does problem still exist. If problem is still there, then you almost have to have a 'short' between the main red wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the key and also to the Regulator/Rectifier TO the Brown wire with a Blue tracer that feeds most of the power to the bike. Finding this 'short' will be a challenge. What I have found while working on the RSV Hybrid is that the main red wire runs all over the bike. It goes from the starter solenoid at rear up front to key switch, over to condenser in knee fairing, over to R/R in front of motor. The Brown with blue tracer also runs around a lot. It goes from main switch to primary fuse block near starter solenoid, and also to the secondary fuse block right knee fairing. I hope I have given you good locations for components I have listed, I still don't have anything close to a complete RSV, nor will I ever. Complete wiring diagrams are at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Gary