Freebird
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Everything posted by Freebird
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It is certainly worth sharing. I posted it to my Facebook page also. Very hard to watch but people should do so.
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Clutch ???
Freebird replied to TearlessTom's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I am a little surprised that you report it is non-energy conserving. I thought that all of Mobil 1 10W/40 oils were energy conserving. I would first confirm that it is indeed NOT. That being said, it is not entirely unusual for these bikes to develop a clutch slippage at 40,000 miles. The clutch springs are a bit weak on them. Many people here replaced the clutch springs with a heavier spring to solve that problem. PCW racing sells an upgrade kit for it and we also have a member here...SkyDoc...that sells the upgrade kit. You can see his ad in the Classifieds under "Member Vendors". For what it's worth, I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T in my '99. It is a motorcycle specific oil but is a bit expensive. I've used it since 1999 though and have no plans to switch to anything else. EDIT: I just looked up that high mileage 10W/40 on the Mobil website and you are indeed correct that it is non-energy conserving. Sorry to have questioned you on that. That being said, there is no telling what the previous owner may have used in it. The heavier clutch spring should solve your problems. You may not need the friction plates but really won't know until you pull them out and look. -
I'm sorry...I know it sounded like I would NOT buy a Chevy. That is not true. I was just pointing out some of the issues that he might want to watch out for. If I were buying a new truck today, I would not eliminate Chevy from my choices and I think that the new models are one of the best looking trucks on the road. You can find issues with ALL makes and models. We watched for other things with the Dodges and Fords that we took in on trade. We didn't see too many problems with the Dodge engines but I can tell you that MANY of them that we took on trade needed the front ends rebuilt. That seemed to be the week point with them. I don't remember much about the Fords but from my personal experience, I've owned two that required transmission work. They were old models though, I think one was a 74 and the other a 76 if I remember correctly. I guess the important thing is that if you are buying a used vehicle, just check it out or have it checked out very well. Most dealerships around here offer at least a 30 day powertrain warranty on used vehicles so hopefully any major issues will show up within that time. I think if I were out shopping for a new truck though, I would sure be looking hard at the Toyota and the Nissan.
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carb covers? Apesadumbrado, no habla inglés.
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I don't know much about the pricing of those things but it does look nice.
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Some of the jokes being posted lately are a bit over the line for this forum. Please remember that this site is PG rated.
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That's what I was thinking. They may very well have put a 190 degree thermostat in it, that is not uncommon. So why do you think there is a problem? If the temp is settling out around 190 and the heater is still not getting hot, I would be looking at the heating system. It is possible that all that rust colored junk you are talking about has also plugged up your heater coil. Although...having just read your post again. Maybe you AREN'T having problems with the heater but the running temperature of the truck.
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The company that I work for does their own anodizing in house. Most people probably know it but the BIG advantage to anodizing is that it creates a much harder and more corrosion resistant surface. Of course if done properly and with the correct base alloy as you state, it can also be very pretty and much of it is done for cosmetic reasons. We do it for both reasons, to create a more durable product for outdoor use and also to offer different colors, mostly bronzes in our case. We do a LOT of clear anodizing just for the weather protection though.
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I've been a Chevy fan for MANY years. Starting in high school with a 1960 Belaire and many after that. It would take a while for me to go back and count how many GM cars and trucks I have owned but probably no less than 30 and probably a lot more. When we moved to Ohio about 10 years ago, I worked at a Chevy dealership for about 3 years. It was during that time that I started seeing that they had some inherent problems across many models that they simply refused to re-engineer. Yes, they would cover the repairs while the vehicle was under warranty but many of the cars I saw in there were out of warranty. Some problems they blamed on the owners even if the car was under warranty. The brakes were the biggest issues that they would sometimes cover and sometimes not. I saw a LOT of Chevy trucks and cars come in there that were less than two years old and sometimes no more than 12,000 miles that the rotors were warped beyond repair. They would sometimes cover this but not if they weren't pushed to do so because they considered it a wear item. Yes, depending upon your driving habits, pads can wear out fairly quickly but rotors should not have to be replaced at 12,000 miles and it was NOT that the pads had been worn down to the metal, the rotors were simply warped. I also saw a LOT of trucks come in with the rotors eaten up with corrosion. Yes, there is salt on the roads here but there are rotor materials that better deal with it. Another common problem was their aluminum wheels. Many cases where they could not prevent air leakage. People having to add air to their tires every 3 or 4 days due to the cast aluminum wheels seeping air. Sometimes the wheels would be replaced under warranty and would solve the problem about 50% of the time. Another issue was intake manifold gaskets. Now MAYBE they have finally changed this over the past few years but there was at LEAST a 10-12 year span where GM used a plastic intake manifold gasket. There was never a question of IF it was going to start leaking, the only question was WHEN. I can tell you for a fact that most anytime we took a used GM vehicle in on trade, we counted on having to replace the intake manifold gasket. There have actually been at least one or two class action lawsuits over this issue. These are all relatively easy things to fix but GM let these issue drag on for years and years and it somewhat turned me off on their vehicles. Like I said, maybe they have them resolved with the newer models but as late at 2006, I know that the brake and wheel issues still existed and am pretty sure that the intake issue did also.
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GREAT...you are the first to report them arriving. I sent them early on Monday morning and figured they should start getting to you all soon.
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It's being auctioned now. Here is the link to it in our classifieds. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3311&title=rstd-backrestproceeds-to-be-donated&cat=20
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Mess is an understatement. Glad nobody was hurt. Did the drunk have any insurance? I sure hope so.
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At least he has an elevator up to the last 100 and something feet. Ours was only about 700 feet but no elevator at all. There were several times when I would get to the top, troubleshoot the situation and then have to go back down and then return with the parts that I needed. It was honestly a lot of fun when you got to the top though. You could see for miles around.
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Well Tom...the GOOD news is that you won't have to put up with me again anytime soon. I'm in Pittsburgh this week and had a bit of snow here this morning but not too bad. I'm thinking it will be late spring before I head your way again.
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Yea, looks like they are really selling cheaper now. I still think that even the 100.00 is a good price. I'm amazed at how cheap they have gotten. I see a set on Ebay now for 80.00 with no bids and the auction ending in less than 2 hours.
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I used to see them new for around $180.00 or so. You asked what is a GOOD price...I would say anything under $160.00 if they are new.
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I've done it many times. Only to about 700 ft. but there was no elevator, it was climbing up a straight ladder all the way to the top. It never bothered me. The physical part of it would probably kill me now though.
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I've never ridden one. I sat on one and was amazed at how well balanced they are. You can pretty much raise it from the side stand with your fingertips. I would like to ride one someday and suspect that they handle great but the looks just do nothing for me. That's just my preference though. I just love the cruiser styling of the RSV.
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Submitted by Saddlebum. Proper use of steering head wrench with torque wrench By the way everyone for some of you who may not be aware of this, There is a small issue you need to keep in mind when using this tool with a torque wrench. If you mount the tool on on a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench . You may set the torque wrench to the exact torque spec. If you mount it at a 45 DEG. angle or straiaght in line. You have to do a small calculation to compansate for the additional length. In otherwords you set your torque wrench at a lower setting to compensate for the added length. Here are two links that will do the calculation for you as well as explain it. The second link actually gives you a pic of the torgue wrench setup. you simply fill in the boxes and it will tell you what set your torque wrench at in order to reach the desired torque. https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/
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Something about you having my back must makes me VERY nervous.
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Finally something that you and I can agree on. Yes, you are FUNNY. Don't let it go to your head though...remember...looks aren't everything.
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Your wall outlets are 120 volts...or 115 or thereabouts. I think you probably had a transformer that plugged into your wall outlet to convert the voltage to 12V DC. It should tell on the transformer what the input and output voltage is. There is a very good chance that the output voltage of the transformer is 12V and that is the voltage being supplied to the LEDs. If so, you won't use the transformer on the bike. Just cut it off and then wire the lights to the 12V of the bike's battery...through a fuse of course. If you get the polarity wrong, they just won't work. Reverse the wires and it should be fine.
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If they are 12 Volt, just plug them in and you should be good to go. They will draw the current that they need. Just be sure that they are 12 Volt. Most are but not all. Polarity is important though.
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You will be in our thoughts and prayers Jay. I hope that you are soon pain free and enjoying life again.
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Here is an article about it. Maybe we can still talk about Ethanol without turning it into a political debate. We'll see. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=%2Fc%2Fa%2F2010%2F11%2F29%2FED8F1GIVH6.DTL
