Marcarl

The elements run on 220, so in order to check that you need to set your meter to 500ac and then put one probe on each lead of the element. Checking one side at a time will not tell you if you have 220. Also, the element needs to be turned on to do this check. If you only get 120, then there is a break izn the circuit, which could be the switch.

I'm not that well versed in 2nd gens,,, well I know some things,,like they are slower,, but that doesn't matter in your case. I would check the air filters just to be sure,, never assume anything when it come to engines and such. Next, redo your carb sync,, it seems odd that it was running fine after the last sync but changed when you had issues,, that should not change the sync one bit. When you are done with the sync it should be idling at 900 or so with all carbs drawing the same. If you have issues trying to get them ALL the the same, maybe you are turning on the wrong screw(s). The idle will go down and up by turning on a sync screw, so you might be thinking it's the idle screw, but maybe is not,, but the sync screw instead, so in the process the sync would get screwed out of adjustment.

Comes up much quicker for me lately,,, maybe because I now ride a Spyder,,, what do you ride??? as if I didn't know.

If it ran good yesterday, it will run better tomorrow,,, just stick with us, and we'll help out,,, and we won't make fun of you,,, with you maybe,, well for sure,,,, but not of you.

Did you happen to pump them full of air somehow?

Like what was mentioned: put another battery into the circuit, one that has at least 10 volts in it, or hook up your car to it for a bit,,,,sooooo,,,, bring the car and bike close together, shut off the car, hook up booster cables positive to positive and negative to negative in that order,,, now hook up the charger to either battery and let it charge for a couple of hours. By this time the bike should have enough charge for the charger to see enough voltage and continue by itself on the bike. Do not start the car. These new chargers will only charge if they see enough voltage, the one I have has to see 7 volts, yours maybe different. If there is not enough voltage it assumes the battery is toast.

Checked it all out with an amp meter, seems to be alright, nothing is over powered or overdrawn, so I guess it's time to do the buttons. Thanks guys.

Time for an update. Scamper is back and through many trials and temptations, I discovered what might be getting in the way of the taillight juice. It wasn't easy to slowly progress through all the different sections, thinking about where the 'leak' might be or if the smoke had actually left through some unbeknownst exit. Hey, it was easy once I discovered the culprit, but as you may all understand, well maybe most of you\us, sometimes it's hard to check the obvious first, so in the end I checked the fuse,,, like I said,,, in the end,, so hopefully end of that story. The other issue that might be a problem in the future is the side stand relay,, it get's warm, and I need to discover if that would be a natural thing,, and if it is not a thing that would be inherent to a Venture, then I need to know what the cause of this is. Also, the headlight fuse,, the one that roasted, draws 1.28amps with the headlight de-plugged,, is that a natural occurrence? With the headlight plugged in the draw is 5amps.

As long as there is progress it's getting better, and the better it gets the sooner you can ride, and the sooner you can ride the happier you'll be, and the happier you are the better I'll feel,,,,, so keep working on it!!!

She's on the list,and so are you,, wishing the best!

Worst comes to worst. Find a drill bit that is the exact size for the hole, carefully drill off the top of the brass screw being careful not to go too deep. This should leave you a centering spot to use a smaller drill to drill out the brass screw, again careful not to go too deep and make sure you get it lined up square,, good and square. Once that is done use an easy-out to remove. Use lots of air blowing to keep things clean where you can see what kind of 'mess' you are making. Slow and easy is the by-word.

Careful,, I don't like the language in his reply,, something fishy!

Best of luck, they don't even show up on the parts phish, best keep looking for the old one. You could take the caliper to your local bearing store, or parts store along with the other o-ring to see if they can match it, got to make sure it's made to work with brake fluid though,, rubber o-ring won't do.

sounds to me like you should pull the carbs clean them and put on a new fuel hose from the pump to the carbs and a new filter.often carbs rebuilds are not quite what the mech says was done, he might have just sprayed them in place and done a shotgun job. with what you described that seems to be the case.

Looks like the fuse from my 85,,,, were we at the same place maybe??

Plan is to bring her back here next Tuesday, then I can see and work on it better. keep the thoughts coming, I might need all the help I can get.

Good questions and thoughts. Fuse was melted but no sign of bad connections. I did replace the fuse panel with blade fuses. Don't know really which fuse runs the tail lights, I was assuming the headlight fuse, but I could be wrong, maybe it is the signal light fuse. All wiring is as original, I added more LED taillights, but they are wired from jumpers in the back and have been working that way for a long time, although I did have a short show up last year and fixed that problem. Colors going into the relay????? One was a red/white, that much I remember. The bike is an hour away right now,,, I am digging for some info,,,, so far so good!

Sold my 85 to my brother's brother-in-law's son-in law,,,,, ya I know,,,, but in a way he's family,,, right,, so I need to help out,,, well I would anyways. Everything worked perfect the day he picked it up,, but on the way home the taillights quit working. Dug into it and found the headlight fuse was cooked,,, yep, melted!, not blown,,, just melted, somebody had stuck a 15amp in there. Me??? would I??? Did an amp draw on that circuit with the headlight in, 6amps, but no taillight. Took the headlight out and it's 1 amp. Took out the CPU and found a cooked coil so replaced the CPU with a good looking one,,,, nothing different. Took the connector at the CPU apart and powered the blue\white wire, draw was 2amps and everything works. Lots of lights back there. Found a plastic 'relay' on the relay bank in front of the dash getting warm. It works (clicks) but what is it for? pink\red\rose connector. I think its the one on the far left of the bank as you sit on the bike, maybe the second from the left. I will read any info posted, but only if you're nice to me.

:rotf: They didn't show it or tell us, but they probably make a model that has a brake in the passenger seat.

Maybe not as fast a 2014 Spyder.....

2.4L engine,,, should spark some interest,,,, hey my wife would go for it,, it would get my head out of the way and she could crochet while we are out and about.

Come-on Puc,,, get down there,, I bet they need some leadership as to how to rally!

Could be either starter switch or kill switch. Nice that they are both in the same area. I would suggest to take both totally apart, clean them, make sure that they look like they work and then try it. Both will give the same problems. Fuel pump is shut off during starting, as well as when you push the kill switch.

Yep,, I'm starting to worry about you Eck,,, Hey, I just had a birthday, does that mean I get to do the same things???? Rally doesn't start until tomorrow.

Wow,,, I missed this one,, how did that happen???? too busy I guess working on a 1st gen. Soooooooooo. HAPPY BIRTHDAY big boy,, hope you can enjoy many more. :happy65: