Flyinfool

I have never heard of "aligning the clutch" either. I would question why it needed a new clutch at only 26K miles. Seeing as it is 17 years old, my bet is it was slipping so he put in a new clutch, its still slipping, and it just needs a clutch spring upgrade. I wonder if he had it apart and simply reassembled it incorrectly? Or the clutch is really just shot and this is the cover story, Or maybe the clutch is slipping and it just needs the spring upgrade and he does not know about that simple issue. Of course this is all pure guessing on my part. You would have to make that call once you are looking at the bike and talking to the owner. But don't tell him what the problem might be.....

It depends on what you call reasonable. http://www.satistronics.com/smd-5050-wateproof-flexible-led-strip-300leds-5m_p2236.html I have a red and a yellow spool. That's 10 meters of LED strip. I also have a bunch of other LED products to play with.

I got my package:dancefool: Got all of the new LEDs installed. All modes are a lot brighter than the incandescent were. I have to get a different LED for the Hi beam indicator. the one I got is to bright. I do not have to see the blue light in bright sunlight. I will get one that is less bright. The turn signals flash super fast as expected, some have said that they like the super fast flash so I figured I would try that first. I don't like it. I will add resistors to the turn signals to slow them down. Love how much brighter everything is. Lots of work to do yet.

Around here if you turn a flat rate box inside out they will not accept it. Even if you have all of their marking blacked out. I've tried it. UPS and FedEX also will not accept USPS boxes whether right side out or inside out and blacked out. I keep a collection of boxes from all of the goodies that I get delivered just to have for sending stuff back out. If you flatten them they do not take up a lot of space.

What do shelves have to do with a motorcycle lift???

I was worried about that the first time also. The exhaust pipes are pretty heavy on this thing, I was assured that it would not be an issue and it has not been.

Under normal conditions the friction plates may be good for 75K. Depending on how bad, long, and often the clutch was slipped before you replaced the spring can have a huge impact on the overall life of the clutch. It is possible to wear out a set of disks in 1 day with a lot of slipping. Also as mentioned, the choice of oil can have an impact on clutch slippage. When I did my spring upgrade I did the day after the first sign of slip, The only way to tell if the plats have life left is to measure their thickness. New plates are 3mm (.118 inch) thick, the wear limit is 2.8mm (.110 inch) thick. My plates were at .117 thick at 40K miles so I put them back in. If you are in there measuring them I would replace at .113-.114 which is 50% of life. The biggest things that will shorten clutch life are lots of parking lot driving in the friction zone, hard riding, and heavy loads like a big trailer.

I just checked, I'm still good for a couple of years. I must have gotten carried away with the great deal for just $12........

I have a SlipStreamer on mine right now. It does the job, I just have to be very gentle cleaning it. It is no where near as scratch resistant as the OEM screen (there are non of those to be found new). I think that the only screen that can compare to OEM for durability, is the F4 and they do not make one for the 1st gens. But if enough people call and ask for it, they may see a demand and make one. I have offered to send them my old OEM shield from my bike to use as a sample to copy. As soon as they make one I will be right there to get one. I'm hard on all windshields.

There is a VBulletin add on "VBGooglemap" that does just what is being described here. I use it on a flying forum that I belong to. Only forum members can access it. It only gives out info that each member puts there, or a link to that members profile. If a non VR member tries to access it, all they get is the the VR login screen. Unfortunately it is more work for Don to set it up.

You need to deliver it to my house and I will show you how to use it...... The 1st gen is easy, you roll the lift under the bike, close the valve on the lift, and pump the handle. It is the 2nd gens that need a special lift adapter.

I have owned both type fairings, I by far prefer the frame mounted. I learned very early on that no faring is just for people that will never leave town.

Nope, didn't even really look for one. The headlight and driving lights are HID. ARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!!! The mail person came while no one was home. Now I have to go fight with the post office to get my package.

Do not use super glue on plastic. The cyanoacrylate is the same ingredient that is in loctite that destroys some plastics. If you are going to try to glue it make sure to use a glue that is made for that type of plastic.

No "extras" yet. There are still places on the bike that do not have lights........

I guess that means that I have to make it there WITH a trailer full of RUM balls.

The Internet tells me that my lights are out for delivery. I should have toys waiting when I get home. Its like Xmas all over again, there is even still some snow in the back yard. Camera is charged, ready to go. (now I just have to remember to use it.... )

Are just looking for busy work for da Boss man???

I can't find a blue balloon either

DANG!! Missed it again......

IIRC the screw that holds the top and bottom half together is installed from the top before the glass is glued in. I have no idea what kind of glue is used to hold the mirror in or if there is a way to remove the mirror without destroying it. I remember reading somewhere, that a trick to tighten a loose mirror that will not hold adjustment, is to grind a slot in the exposed end of the screw on the bottom side, so that you can tighten it with a flat blade screwdriver.

According to the data sheets for red 262 Loctite, the joint must be heated to 250°C or 482°F in order to get it to release. Thankfully I have not had to get in to do this job yet. Another trick that I have used to localize heat is to use an old or cheap Allen wrench and heat the Allen wrench to red hot while it is engaged in the bolt head. This will heat the bolt directly and not the surrounding aluminum as much as trying to get a torch directly on the screw head. If you do use a torch directly on the screw head. Use the smallest welding tip that you can get your hands on so that most of the flame will be inside the screw socket. If the head of the bolt is getting red hot, you are way to hot and may be damaging the surrounding aluminum.

In that case. What Don said.......

So you chose to trim bushes instead of going for a ride, with "Brown Sugar" purring quietly in the back ground?????? QUICK, SOMEONE CALL 911, DAN IS DYING OF OLD AGE.................

There is a member vendor that is making a flag mount that will slide into a 1-1/4 receiver hitch and I think he has a few other options. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61997