Flyinfool

Your 10 days late with this.......

Progress I have the circuit boards laid out, and some additional components on order. The PCB is only 1" wide X 2-3/8 long X 3/8 thick and will have 4 wires coming out of one end. It will not be bad to build with just 8 components, and 4 wires to solder down. The board house that I am going to use has a minimum order of 9 boards, so I may have some spares for interested parties. ASSUMING that this actually works as planned........ Warning do not try to make boards from these layouts, I have fixed a couple minor errors since I made these PDFs 75539.pdf

NO NO, its stay away from the light, fear the light......

I have also had success with a magnetic pickup tool. Some times you still need the pick to break the oil seal before the magnet will pull it out.

And her leather boots that go all the way up??

Lookin good Don Sorry I made so much work for you by giving you the lead.

Well the load resistors should be here Thursday. I am going to try something different with the load resistor. Instead of hooking it up as one resistor per turn signal as recommended, (this means 4 resistors required one at each bulb) I am going to try it with one central resistor to handle the entire flasher system for both turn signals and 4 ways. I also ordered the parts to build my "super flasher". I do not like the brake flashers for this purpose, so I am designing and building my own flasher circuit so I can tailor it to this exact purpose. The plan is to have a flasher system hooked up so that whenever the horn is blowing, all of the non HID lights on the bike will be flashing at around 6-12 Hz. This should help the poor misguided person that just cut me off, figure out where the danger is, (or make me a target, not sure which:confused24:).

I'm hoping that no news is good news....... Besides this needed a bump it was 3 pages back already......

Interesting as it is, many RSV owners prefer the VMax gears and many of the VMax people prefer the RSV gears. You could get the VMax, do the gear swap and then sill have a complete vmax to sell, or play with.

Hmmmmmm So you want RR to stay at the Oberlin but then you put your name in the hat to get away from the Oberlin............

Set the bike up with the front wheel off the ground, You can then turn the steering slowly to feel for any tight spots. The stearing should also move freely from side to side with almost no pressure on the bars. If the bearings are warn there will be a slight indent feel around center. You can then also grab the front wheel and pull it forward and back to check for play in the head bearings. Orlin, Are you sure its the bike? There are no straight roads around you. You might be trying to go straight on a twisty road.

Even better yet, If I win the raffle you can use my tent.

A side stand on most any bike will not just fold up. Every side stand I have looked at uses the over center principal to keep the bike from rolling forward and off the stand. As the stand is moving back on its way up, it gets lower before it starts to go up. If the stand is down and you lean into a left turn, when the stand contacts the ground, first it will stop you from leaning any farther, then as it starts to move back and drops lower it will push the bike very hard toward the upright position. Unless you have both lightening reflexes and the safe space to switch from a left turn back to a right turn, you are going over on the right side of the bike. BUT, and there always seems to be one, all of the damage appears to be on the left side. If this was because of the side stand being down, the bike would have gone over on the right side. I watched a Harley do this in an intersection right in front of me once. It was spectacular.

Easy test, turn the bike on, if the side stand is down the red warning light should be lit along with the side stand graphic on the display. Start the bike, put it in gear with the side stand still down, it should kill.

Glad your OK. The worst part will be going up to the upper right corner and clicking on that "Donate" button.

Glad to hear. Save those tools for the next guy that does that. NOW DON'T DO THAT AGAIN.

I may need a glove to protect my hand, that is a lot of spankings.......

This is the converter that I have It is rated for both incandescent and LED trailer lights. Not all converters can do both, some are incandescent only and some are LED only. Some don't mention it so you have to guess. This one is also an isolator, this means there is one more wire to hook up, this wire goes to the battery so that all power for the trailer lights comes from the battery and not the bikes electrical system.

No extra credit but you do get Birthday spankings. Now, just how big is this Birthday you have coming? How many will fit in there is dependent on just how we stack us.

I'm in, if I win and don't have to bring the tent, I'll have lots of room for RUM balls. The tent fills 2/3rds of the trailer.

This is starting sound like what was the plan all along.....................

There is no combination of just wiring that will work. The bike is a 5 wire system and the trailer is a 4 wire system. The adapter that you got is correct. You need to add in an isolator/converter that will convert the bikes 5 wire to work with the trailer 4 wire. OR you can convert the trailer to a 5 wire system. there are pros and cons to having an isolator, I have an isolator so that the power to the trailer is not having to be switched and carried by the skinny little wires on the bike. Since you have another trailer that has a 5 wire system It might be easier to convert the first trailer to also be 5 wire. The difference is. On a 5 wire system the turn signals are separate from the brake lights. On a 4 wire system the turn signals and brake lights use the same filament.

The oil you used, Mobil 1 racing 4T 10W-40, is a motorcycle oil that specifically states it is for use with a wet clutch. It "should" be fine. But I have heard of some people having issues with full synthetic motorcycle oils that "should" work. It is possible that either you wore out the clutch back when it was slipping and or it got glazed while it was slipping. Remember there is only .008 inches of thickness between a new and a worn out friction disc. That is only .004 per side, about the thickness of a piece of paper. The only way is to measure each disc. Glazing is not always visible to the eye, a light sanding of all friction and steel surfaces will ensure no glazing. Fortunately it is really easy to service the clutch on these bikes.

IIRC there is a washer in the stack up that looks like it should go in the wrong place. when it is assembled wrong it locks things up. These clutches don't "just go out" My money is on a weak clutch spring that was slipping and then messed up the reassembly. It should just be a matter of taking it apart and putting it back right. The spring dies of old age, not mileage.

Running is better than a pretty garage queen. Broken plastic is a big issue, it is hard to find. If the 89 had the ignition module and coils replaced with new, that was well over $1000 at a stealer. But check the age of the tires. And they are both blue...... Watch out for Dan making a road trip to WI if he can escape the watchful eyes of the warden........