Flyinfool

Bow season starts tomorrow.:dancefool:

One never knows, maybe now that 2nd gens are obsolete, Dan can start breeding 2nd gens in his new almost finished garage........

With the exception of pulling a trailer at 80+, I seem to get 39-40 no matter how I ride. At 160 miles the warning light comes on, I stop at the next station, and it takes between 4.0 and 4.1 gallons.

I got my size 13s all warmed up....... :buttkick: :buttkick: But this sounds like some back story is needed.........

Some more info; http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=561417 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?129246-White-LEDs-and-colored-lenses Here is the thread from my LED upgrade with comparison pics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77042

When you have a white lite source behind a red lens, the lens will filter out everything but the red light. All of the rest of the light is wasted energy. With an LED light source, they are usually rated in mcd. If you take a red LED at 1000 mcd and a white LED at 1000 mcd they are the same brightness. But when you put them behind a red lens, all of the light from the red LED will go thru the red lens and still be visible light. BUT the white LED behind that red lens will have all of the spectrum other than the red filtered out. The white LED will look very dim behind that red lens. This holds true for any color of lens, to get maximum light out of the lens the light source should match the lens color. For reference http://www.superbrightleds.com/cb/car.lens_color.html

You could use it to add all kinds of lights to the bike, or just ignore it till you get a trailer.

The LED tail lights that I got from Super Bright LEDs were $25 each but they are way brighter than the stock incandescents with a very significant difference in brightness between brake and tail. Those eBay LEDs are white, You do NOT want white LEDs, you should always match the led color to the lens color. But I must agree with you, there are a lot of bad LED lights out there. I guess sometimes you get what you pay for.

Here is the write up I did for my 88. Not sure what needs to change for an 83. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45603

I don't put anything on my tent. The tent is 20 years old, has been used a LOT, and still does not leak.

:crackup: :rotf: :rotfl: If you were touching that one we would all have to keep our distance.......

Jumping the reed switches in the CMU only stops the warning light from coming on. I know there are some differences in the RLU between the MKI and the MKII like I have. The RLU is completely independent of the CMU, the RLU is what will switch to the good element if one headlight element burns out. Depending on which HID you have You may or may not have to remove the RLU. If your HID is pulling its power from the headlight connector then the RLU will probably work ok. If your HID has a separate fused power wire, then the RLU will need to be disabled. I have the separate power type Bi-Xenon HID. What it did was, because the current draw was not enough in the bikes headlight circuit it decided that the low beam was burnt out so it would switch to Hi beam, but then the hi beam current was to low so it would switch to lo beam, but then the lo beam current was to low so........................... It would just keep switching between hi and low at an extremely fast speed. the switching speed is faster than than you can see and is faster than the HID can react. so the motor that moves the bulb is going to burn out quickly. With the bike not running but the key in the run position and the HID turned on, listen to the bulb, if it is buzzing you need to work on the RLU.

The bad connections are not visible to the eye. It is usually a microscopic crack in the solder. Just reflow the solder on all of the connector pins adding a little fresh solder, preferably a silver bearing solder. If you installed a HID did you also disable the RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit)?

As far as sidewall load capacity, I don't think there is a tire made that could be overloaded behind a bike. In an emergency once while on a trip, someone slashed the tires on my boat trailer. All I could find locally was car radial tires. I got those off as soon as I got home. Even though the weight rating was more than adequate, the trailer was bouncing and swaying all over the place, it just did not want to follow me. As soon as the correct tires were back on, all was good again.

I had to Google twerking. Never heard of it before. Butt I like it.

Asking and getting are two completely different things. I have never been afraid to insult a dealer, sometimes you will end up with it, especially if the item is not their core business.

I feel my bike start to get squirmy when the pressure is down just 5 lbs.

I'll bet that you could find someone local to do it for Pizza and/or Ice Cream. Some might even travel quite a distance for a "free" meal. After all we seem to be an eating club with a riding disorder.....

Did you try from a computer? Maybe it is a Droid issue.

For board repair I like to use some flux and a silver bearing solder. The lead solder cracked once already and the silver bearing solder is both stronger and more conductive. For your soldering pencil, I would recommend the 40W for the bigger terminal solder joints or soldering bigger wires together, and a 15 / 30W for component leads. DO NOT use plumbing solder because it has an acid flux that will eat electronics. Also do not use acid flux for the same reasons. ONLY rosin core solder and rosin flux. Since you are not experienced with soldering, you do not want to mess with the modern lead free solders, they are harder to work with. You want solder with lead in it. Just don't eat it and you will be fine unless you live in California. A Radio Shack shopping list to get you started Rosin Flux P/N 64-022 Silver Solder P/N 64-013 40W Soldering Pencil P/N 64-2071 15/30W Soldering Pencil P/N 64-2055

I can do that much better than those cops do it. It is really hard to knock over the most cones........

Hey, that's my line........ I get most of my parts from SkyDoc_17, a member on this forum. The parts will come with a lot of knowledge on how to use them.

:sign yeah that: Once you learn the combination it is an easy one.

Back when I was dirt track racing cars, we did do a lot of siping. As mentioned it does add a lot of traction AND the tire will wear a LOT faster. I would not do it to a everyday street tire.

That has to suck. But then look at the bright side. You may have gotten some weird looks doing Hardly Fest on a Venture...... But on the other hand, I could have taken you out for some good Wisconsin Ice cream while you were here.