Flyinfool

Did you make it home yet?

Seeing as how we are trying to get a plastic slide unstuck, and knowing what brake fluid does to some plastics, I think I would pass on that one.

Yes there is. When a LIPO is over charged they can burst into flame, If over discharged, they can burst into flame. As mentioned above you need some special circuitry to try to make sure this does not happen. A full charged LIPO cell is 4.2V so you can get 4.2V, 8.4V, 12.6V or 16.8V out of a battery. So on the surface a 3 cell LIPO looks great at 12.6V. BUT That peak charged voltage does not last real long before the LIPO settles in to its normal working voltage of 3.7V, this gets you 3.7V, 7.4V, 11.1V, or 14.8V. Now that 3 cell pack is only getting you 11.1V, a little on the low side, but the 4 cell looks good at 14.8V, but that 4 cell peak voltage of 16.8 is a bit high. I guess that LIPO could be good on a vehicle designed for it, I would not trust it as a retrofit on a vehicle designed for lead acid. The voltages just don't match up well. From my experience with a lot of LIPOs, and a lot of lead acid, the LIPOs do not have near the service life of a lead acid.

Before during AND after.

See if you can get a jump from someone to get it running. Pull the headlight and driving fuses to save power. You can use the donor car to put some charge into your battery. Beat feet toward home. Have someone meet you part way to recharge as required. 150 miles is a long way on a battery.

We will need pics AND video of this one...........

I read up on it a while back, I now know that I will never make it. My marsmallow butt is way to delicate.

A couple of options. 1. drop it on the other side so both sides match and you can say it is supposed to be like that and then send in 2 $5 dropped bike donations......... 2. Get some touch up paint to match for the deep parts and then buff it to blend. When I was shopping for my bike I looked at around a dozen, every one had the right top corner scraped off. I just assumed it was supposed to be like that........

IIRC The ride does not have to be 1,000 out and another 1,000 back. It can be a big loop, or even an out and back as long as you properly document the turnaround.

I think she is sleeping already.

I think this is starting to look a little one sided...... But it is scary that so many are actually agreeing with me.

I hope I never get that old........

Change the engine and rear end oil. Flush the brake and clutch fluids, the fluids die of age not use. Being more careful this time. Check the tires carefully for any cracking, check the date codes, if they are more than 6 years old new tires are in order. Charge the battery and have it load tested to be sure it is still good. Put some Seafoam in that first tank of gas, You may have to cycle the key off and on a couple of times so that the fuel pump can fill the float bowls. The pump only runs 2 seconds at a time when you turn the key on. Kepp cycling till the pumps stops clicking when you turn the key on. Should only take a couple of tries. Inspect all rubber brake, fuel and other rubber hoses for any cracking. Go for a ride.

What car????

:sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: I learned the hard way to call the CC companies of all of the cards I might use on a trip to tell them that I will be stopping for gas very often, and the states and dates of my travel. I always mention that I am on a motorcycle and it has a small tank so they will se a lot of small gas transactions in quick sequence.

We went through this not to long ago and most of us oldies liked it the way it is.

The VRTech link on the left gets you to the read only tech section. To post a question you want the "First Generation Venture Tech Talk". Go to "Forums" in either the "Main Menu" on the left of the screen or the tab at the top left of the screen second row. Scroll down to the "Tech Talk" (second section down) and there you will find the "First Generation Venture Tech Talk" to post your question.

I do have a couple of the valve shim tools left. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4475&title=valve-shim-tool&cat=10

Technically a crimp is more reliable than solder. In high reliability situations the joints are either crimped or welded. BUT This is assuming that you are comparing a proper solder joint to a proper crimp joint. The cheap crimpers that you get at the auto store with the terminals is NOT going to give you a proper crimp, A proper crimper is rather expensive for the average home shop, starting around $50 and can be as much as several hundred dollars. A proper solder joint must be mechanically secure BEFORE the solder is applied, and the solder must not be wicking up into the strands of the wire. You can not just lay the wire ends next to each other and glob on some solder to hold them together. This would be a poor electrical and a poor mechanical joint.

Double check your connections to the bike. The bikes wire colors are all different than the wire colors on the converter. The converter that you have is not an isolator type, The isolator type is preferred for bikes. With the isolator type, all of the power for the trailer lights comes from the battery and not thru the bikes electrical system.

I have been using Dielectric grease on all motor vehicle connectors since the mid 70's. I have never seen or heard of the grease actually causing an issue. If the grease was conductive it would short all of the pins together, it has to be non conductive to do its job. Even the name "dielectric" means non conductive. Undamaged connectors have no problem making good contact through the grease, and the grease will then form a seal around the contact point to slow down corrosion. The auto makers even use dielectric grease on/in the connectors and bulb sockets. My guess is either a bad RR from the start or a bad crimp to the wire on the connector. Just because a contact "looks" clean does not mean it is free of oxidation. Clean them anyhow. Dielectric grease will not help a dirty connection, it does not fix any kind of existing problem, it is purely to help prevent future problems.

I just took my 88 to the paint store and they were able to match it close enough that I know what was repainted and I can not see a color difference. I do not know if the gold is any harder to match than my metallic Maroon, which according to the color computer was almost the same as a Toyota color, just needed a bigger size of metal flake in it.

Since you unloaded your RSV to get it. Maybe name it "Venture".

I think your order of priorities is messed up......... I think it is exactly backwards........

I have seen several versions like this one. But they are all so true. I have also seen versions where bass boat won't start, where truck not running right there are probably others. I showed it to Erika and she does not get it......