Flyinfool

I watched a friend of mine that is vertically challenged get on his bike from the "wrong" side. When I got home I tried it. That darn near landed me on my posterior. I am no longer real agile like I was a half century ago, so I look a little goofy getting on or off the bike.

I have 2 Wolo Bad Boys on my bike. I have come to the conclusion that even as loud as they are, it is still not loud enough. At highway speeds the wind seems to kill the sound enough that it is still not heard for any great distance. It sure sounds loud in a parking lot or to the rider, But I have to many other drivers remain oblivious to my presence. But I have a plan I am working on to get MUCH louder.:mo money:

But the cagers have not yet stopped attacking us.

It is not necessarily a short that caused the connector melting. A short would have popped a fuse. Most common is a dirty contact in the connector will cause heat. If you are getting 16V at the battery, the RR is toast. The higher voltage will cause everything on the bike to draw more power and that could also heat up the connector. If you combine the high voltage with a dirty contact the connector don't stand a chance.

You should be able to get the -4AN fittings at many auto supply stores, the rest you should be able to find at the hardware store.

I had someone challenge me to eat a gallon of ice cream once, it was good to the last drop.... Maybe that is why all of these years later I ended up here... :essen_018: :essen_018: 2 pounds does not sound like a lot, 2 pounds of bread is a lot more than 2 pounds of steak. But it would be fun trying.....

You really do not need brake lines rated for 3,000+ PSI. The max pressure in the front shocks is only 17PSI and most run less than max. I was thinking some cheap black polyethylene or polyurethane line rated for 100PSI that will go on a barbed fitting with a cheap spring clamp. If I had a 2nd gen I would have already made something up. The outside of a Schrader valve is a 5/16-32 UNEF thread, the same thing as a -4AN fitting. Just take out the valve core and screw on the an fitting and attach your hose to the barb. It does not have to cost a fortune to work.

But I made it home......and it is all better now .......

I'll bet Jack Benny does not have 500+ LEDs on his Venture...... If it's broke I can fix it, if I can't fix it, it wasn't broke. Just take a quick swim across the lake to find out about being around me, I'll buy you an ice cream.

When you say you got a drain of 12, 12 what? If you were measuring volts, then that is normal, If you were measuring amps, that is really bad. Your charging voltages are low. Here is a test procedure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297 I cant help with how to get at the RR.

Did you ever look into just getting some parts from the hardware store to make your own?

You know we have to ask??????

You could have just parked in the sun to warm it up and eaten right out of the trunk, would have saved some cleaning time......

AMA Insight, No matter which side you are on. The American Medical Association has weighed in on Obama's new health care package. The Allergists were in favor of scratching it, but the Dermatologists advised not to make any rash moves. The Gastroenterologists had sort of a gut feeling about it, but the Neurologists thought the Administration had a lot of nerve. Meanwhile, Obstetricians felt certain everyone was laboring under a misconception, while the Ophthalmologists considered the idea shortsighted. Pathologists yelled, "Over my dead body!" while the Pediatricians said, "Oh, grow up!" The Psychiatrists thought the whole idea was madness, while the Radiologists could see right through it. Surgeons decided to wash their hands of the whole thing and the Internists claimed it would indeed be a bitter pill to swallow. The Plastic Surgeons opined that this proposal would "put a whole new face on the matter". The Podiatrists thought it was a step forward, but the Urologists were pissed off at the whole idea. Anesthesiologists thought the whole idea was a gas, and those lofty Cardiologists didn't have the heart to say no. In the end, the Proctologists won out, leaving the entire decision up to the Aholes in Washington.

Mobil 1 T4 is specifically formulated for MC.

Eagleeye is another I have not heard from in a long time.

I really am not sure. I have no first hand experience with using the wrong oil. IIRC the slippage does not show up immediately when it does happen. BUT when slippages does happen, it can take 2 oil changes to make it go away. On the other hand, there are some car oils that are fine with the wet clutch even though they do not say so on the bottle. Now that I have you thoroughly cornfused........ It sounds like you already have the car oil in there. If you run it just to do the carbs and as a flush of the gassed oil I am "guessing" that you will not have an issue. As long as you do not pull the clutch to open the plates the oil should not get in there. When you go to drain this oil, there is a second drain plug for the transmission. It is the bottom bolt of the 6 bolts on the left side middle gear cover, this bolt should have a copper crush washer to seal the bolt head. For a "normal" oil change this bolt does not need to be pulled. There is only a couple of ounces of oil in there. But since you want to get as much of the old out as possible, I would pull that plug this time. The main oil drains best on the center stand the trans drains best on the side stand. Drain the main first. You can reuse the crush washer if it is not damaged and you anneal it. To anneal it use a torch (a gas stove will work in a pinch, just don't let the wife catch you:duck:) to heat it to a dull red and immediately drop it in a bucket of water to cool. this will make it soft so that it can do a good job of sealing the oil.

10-40 is the recommended oil. Heavier is not always better. I also have been running the Valvoline 10-40 MC oil. This last change I tried the Amsoil full synthetic MC oil. So far no difference other than the size of hole in my wallet. I was hoping for at least a slight increase in gas mileage to give me an indication that it was a better lube.

There are several rubber pieces in that pic, which one are you after?

The Mobile 1 T4 is specifically made for motorcycles with a wet clutch so it should be fine. I am sure that there are some auto oils that will work fine with the Yamaha clutch, but not all auto oils. On the other hand, all motorcycle oils made for use with a wet clutch will work with the Yamaha clutch.

Not all bikes have clutch issues with automotive oils. But it is a well document issue with our clutches. If you search clutch issues on this site, you will fund a number of cases where someone was saving money using auto oil and experienced clutch slipping, changed back to MC oil made for a wet clutch and problem went away. The article does not address this issue. The article does say that the tests were done on a V65 Magna, it is possible that its clutch system can tolerate the auto oil.

The clips in the stock fuse holders are junk, if the fuse is getting hot, it has a bad connection. Put in an AGM fuse block, it will cure many electrical evils.

Make sure that whatever cheap oil you put in for the flush says on the bottle that it is compatible with a wet clutch. If if has friction modifiers like most car oils it will cause your clutch to start slipping.

That might have been me that you were thinking of. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79093 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79290 Do you still have the stock glass fuses? Did I ever mention I hate intermittent electrical problems. Good luck

All an optical delusion, that was a nice trunk with just the right junk......