Flyinfool

WOW! I sure hope I never experience that. Watching this has officially ended my diet....... Having more stones seems to help...... I found it interesting that they were able to demonstrate that a trunk behind the rear wheel increases weave, and leaning forward over the take will stop weave, then at the very end they say they have no idea why leaning forward stabilizes the bike. They just proved that a rearward CG (Center of Gravity) is unstable and a more forward CG is more stable. Yet they were unable to make the connection that leaning down over the tank will move the CG forward. This same CG thing is critical to getting an airplane to fly straight also.

Glad you are not to badly hurt. I hope you heal up quick and that everything works out for you. Unfortunately it does not take much more than a scratch before an insurance Co will total out a 1st gen.

If you can feel it slip when you crank on it, it is already a weak spring and may be creeping all of the time. The sooner you replace it the less likely you are to need new plates or steels.

Sliders moving slowly is more likely dirt making them sticky in the bore. Pull the slides out and give them and the bores a thorough cleaning before you start replacing stuff.

If you don't have it already you want the HID on a separate switch so that you can turn it on after the engine is running. Having the HID come on before the engine is started is really hard on the HID due to the voltage drop while the starter is cranking. All of the HIDs that I have seen (I certainly have not seen them all) do plug into the existing headlight connector, but still have a separate power wire running to the battery and to ground.

Is the email by chance still in your deleted items folder?

Maybe we can all do a no rain dance for ya for the rest of the trip.......

If you did not pull the flywheel (there is no need to pull flywheel for stator replacement) then it is unlikely, not impossible, to be something in the starting system. Check for any debris that may be stuck to the magnets of the flywheel. Check the stator to be sure that it is actually tight and not just that the screws are bottomed out in the holes. Check also to be sure the stator is seated properly. If something was rubbing somewhere in there, you should see rub marks. Silly question that must be asked, Did you use a new cover gasket or just sealer to put the cover back on? The gasket thickness is needed for proper internal clearances.

Maybe you are just riding harder trying to get the same performance that you are used to from your old 1st gens...... I know Sharon likes to go fast........ Well someone had to go there......

I slept to late. I was going to suggest a home made v-boost. And as soon as you said you can turn the tube, the very first thing that popped into my head was air leak. I guess no worms for me today........

I don't even know what the original grips are. I have nice foam grips that I just put on my 88, comfy and inexpensive.

The alternator of a car is a LOT more powerful than the charging system of a motorcycle. What is happening is that the extra 54 watts (27 W per bulb x 2 bulbs) of lighting that is flashing on and off is more amps than the stator can deliver at idle. Whenever you pull more amps than the charging system can deliver the voltage of the whole system drops. When the voltage drops the lights will dim. A car alternator is more able to deliver the needed power even at idle so the other lights do not dim.

I think the KOA was for campgrounds for overnight stops while in route to the the IR. Not for once you were there.

I would think that if you let it rest on the fender it will leave rub marks in the paint no matter how tight you lash it to the backrest. Ever consider a hidden hitch and either a plug in rack or small trailer for traveling?

But I bet a good shot of adrenalin makes it work better, or as least faster. I have already been rethinking mine, I have a Bad Boy horn on each side of he bike facing forward, not cowled under anything. At Dons MD I was only a few bike lengths behind another bike and he could not hear my air horns while I was trying to get his attention.

I have one from my 88, if it will fit you can have it. It is a little worn at the pivot but was still functional. If you are getting a new one order a new pivot bolt and a new bushing that pushes the piston in the master, these do wear out.

Ummmmmm...... I don't know if Don will allow us to post that instructional video....... You may just have to do some experimenting and trying lots and lots and lots of different things till you find the one that works best for you.........Then post video.......

I see the gas cap for $24.99 but it shows as free shipping on my screen.? The $14.99 spring is also free shipping, as is the $14.99 trunk mat? I am not finding any of the listings on the page you linked to with $45 shipping?? The highest shipping I found was $19.95 but that was a large heavy item so it is realistic shipping. Unless it has something to do with you being an international customer.....??

I hope you did not hurt him to bad......

You just have to look at the value of the bottom line. I have bought items from e bay for$0.99 and paid the $45 shipping, but it was an item that I was willing to pay up to $50 to get. So I got my moneys worth and how the seller works his numbers is his problem. The only number I care about is what is leaving my bank account.

They should be OK there, But I would turn them terminals down to help shed water.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4NK-81670-00-00.html http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4NK-81670-00-00.html http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-pick-up-assy-4nk-81670-00-00-part.html http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/669998 Here are some possibilities. I would call to verify stock and you can then see what faster shipping would cost.:mo money:

First is a visual check. If any of the windings are a darker color than the rest It may be a sign of excessive heat. With your ohm meter set on highest ohm scale, check from each wire to the metal part of the stator. The stator has a insulation coating on it so you have to make sure that you are actually getting a good connection to the metal. With your ohm meter set on the lowest scale. check the resistance of each pair of wires. It should be .36 to .48 ohms. Alls 3 pairs should be very close to the same value. That is about as good as you can test with the stator off the bike. I have attached a PDF file of a procedure that I am writing for checking the complete charging system.

The resistance from any one of the stator wires to ground should not be 0, it should be infinity. Infinity will be the same thing that the ohm meter shows when the leads are not connected to anything. Since your ohm meter is not real accurate, another test you can run is to check voltage from a stator wire to ground with the engine running, RPM does not matter for this test. All 3 should be 0 volts. If you get a reading then either the windings of the stator or one of the stators leads are shorted to ground. A damaged shorted wire can be repaired, if the stator itself is grounded it is toast. Also when you are checking the battery voltage, do a test with everything on the bike turned on. If you do not see that same 13.9 volts at 4,000 rpm then you have a weak charging system. From what you described, It sure sounds like the stator is the culprit.

Ever run a compression check to see if there may be a mechanical issue?