Flyinfool

I was thinking a handgun in 7mm-08 for a long shot with a .50 cal handgun for close work. Of course if we do butcher that 400 pounder at the resort, I'll bet that some grills will show up quick enough so that the remainder will fit into a cooler, or lunch bag......

The braid is just that, copper braid, the solder wicks right up into the braid. works great. For old crusty solder like what is on these old circuit boards it helps to add a bit of rosin flux to the braid. Rosin flux is also from Radio Shack. DO NOT USE acid flux like what is used for plumbing, acid and electronics do not mix well.

I don't know if tire smoke is the best smoke for curring pork.......and since I have a 1st gen, it will not take long to get out of state...... BUT since Red1 mentioned that there would be Hog hunting, there may be a few Hogs right at the resort to use for target practice....... Just thinking out loud here.... I suppose it might be possible to de-bone it and get all or most of it into a cooler, I know I can get a whole de-boned deer into my cooler. I never even thought to try a MC hunting trip. The resort that we are staying at may also have some local hunting info to share with their guests, as well as possibly have or know of a freezer and/or butcher to cool down the meat for a guest. It would be easy to remove the topper from my trailer down there to have a flat bed to hall the beast back to camp on. Once back at camp it would not take long for a couple of guys to butcher it up and get it into a cooler. I would probably hunt with hand guns just because they are easier to transport on a bike.

Now this sounds interesting. The only part I am not sure of is how to get the meat home on a bike and keep it properly cooled.

That sounds like fun.......

Initially reduced power draw was the main reason that I went to LED, and the LEDs did that well. I was very pleasantly surprised to also find out that the LEDs I used are brighter than stock incandescents. Since the front turn signals are also running lights, you will get energy savings all of the time there. The rear are just turn signals so there is no energy saving, BUT I did notice that in bright sunlight my rear turn signals were nearly invisible, With the LED they are now very visible. This is a big safety deal to me. I want everyone around me to be sure of my intentions. I now advocate the safety issue first and the power saving second. I agree that there are some people that should not even be allowed to look at a wire, let alone mess with one. ps. Yes mine did work on the first try. But I then messed with it some more to optimize it so I am still getting some energy savings with the turn signals and still have a correct flash rate. I did do a write up on what I did so that others can follow a plan that is known to work.

Driving comes first and foremost. I usually wave if it is safe for me to do so. I do not wave if I am; in heavy traffic. accelerating or decelerating. turning. watching other traffic situations that require my complete attention. Probably a few more that I do subconsciously. If you do not feel safe waving, that is you making the correct choice for you, I will not be offended, because I understand that there are things that are more important than a wave.

Just above the pivot for the rear brake lever.

I like the ideas swirling around in my poor little head. It will be on a small circuit board about the size of a postage stamp. There will be 3 QC (1/4 or .25 Spade terminal) terminals sticking out the side of it. Getting ready to pull the trigger to order parts to make up 10 of these bulb monitors. I already have materials on hand to make up the PCBs, just need the components. Wiring will be simple; 1. Cut the wire going to the bulb you wish to monitor 2. Crimp on a QC terminal to each end of the cut wire. 3. Attach the QC terminals to the module. 4. Attach a wire with a QC terminal to the remaining terminal of the module. 5. Attach the other end of this wire to the Indicator LED. 6. Connect the other lead of the indicator LED to ground.

Fortunately for me Lake Michigan did a good job of stopping the westward progress of the blackout. So for us it was just a blurb on the news.

Our bikes do have an adjustable antenna. Having the SWR correct will not have a much effect on reception, But a high SWR can let the magic blue smoke out of the CB while transmitting.

Also check again to be sure it is wired up correctly. The wire colors do NOT match between the converter and the bike. A mis-wire on the bike side of the converter can wear the hair off one side of your head with weird results on the trailer.

Notes This is where people get confused. Adding the "load equalizers" aka resistors, it is true that it will negate any energy savings, BUT this is only while the turn signal is actually lit. Think about it, how much time is the turn signal bulb actually lit. First it is a 50% duty cycle when the signals are on, The auto cancel turns them off after 15 seconds so that means the bulb is lit for 7.5 seconds MAX for a lane change. So even if you have to stop at a light for a minute, the turn signal bulb is only lit for a little over 30 seconds. That is not much time to worry about the current draw being the same as it was before. You still get the energy savings from the running lights part of the LED ALL of the time. The net result is a big saving of energy. As far as the blown fuses and scorched wires, that is not because of the LEDs, it is because of improper wiring and would have happened anyhow. With all of that said, there are a lot of junk LEDs on the market that are less bright than the incandescent was, there are also LEDs that are a lot brighter than the incandescents and will be a noticeable improvement in visibility. Just like what you noticed with the brake light.

The wedge type bulbs are 3 watts each; 10 accent lights 6 trunk lights 10 trim lights 2 mudflap lights 28 total lights 28 lights at 3W each is 84 watts or 7 amps draw. That is a lot!!!! Now depending on how much other electrical stuff you have added to the bike, could explain the smoking stator. You may have to look into a High Output stator and RR and/or change all of those lights over to LED.

I have LEDs everywhere on my 88 and there is no problem with the rear brake canceling the cruise. You might want to clean the rear brake switch just to rule it out. Your issue could also be a weak vacuum pump. The max speed that my cruse will hold has been slowly dropping. I believe it is a weak pump that can only pull so hard. There was a post a while back where someone had similar issues and a brand new pump made it work like new again. I can not find that post now.

Very glad to hear that you are OK. Anything else can be dealt with. I hope you find a new ride that you like. Keep an eye on the mirrors when stopped, and always have a plan for an escape route.

That could be possible, Over the operating temperature range of a bike I don't know what temp range sensor would be right. What is the temp inside the headlight at 20 deg F vs 120 deg F in the sun.?

I am thinking in the neighborhood of $5-10 per circuit monitored. An air wound coil of wire and a reed switch with NC contacts, and a LED indicator, maybe a resistor depending on the LED used with some wire and terminals to connect it all up. Hey squeaky, give me a call.

And the back seat can fold down to make more room for storage.

If your HID is connected the same as mine is where there is a separate fused power wire to the battery, then the signal to turn the hid on or off is pulled from either the high or low beam wires to the headlight. If you have dirty contacts in the Hi/Lo switch it might be breaking the connection while the switch is moving and that momentary break will tell the HID to turn off. Clean your Hi/Lo beam selector switch.

:sign yeah that: Nope, It would be on whether the headlight was blown or not. Aircraft current sensors are kind of pricey:mo money: But that would work. I have come up with a simple circuit to light a LED if the bulb burns out. This circuit I have in mind would not work with LED tail/brake lights without modifications. The same circuit would/could monitor; High beam Low beam Brake light Tail Light. It would be a PITA to monitor turn signals. What I do not know, is anything about the wire routing of a 2nd gen to determine how hard it would be to hook up. I would need a local guinea pig so I could figure out connection points.

It sho do look interesting. Has a smaller engine than the Ventures. I like the creamsicle color, but I would be worried about a bunch of ventures chasing me down the road thinking I was ice cream.

It can be done because the 1st gens will tell you if a brake light or tail light or either high or low beam headlight, are out. The first gens even have a circuit so that if a headlight element burns out it will automatically instantly switch to the other headlight element regardless of hi/lo beam selector switch position. It is possible to build a circuit that would monitor for burned out bulbs. I have an idea how to do it, I will have to do some cipherin to see if I can come with something easy enough for the average person to build.

What kind of lights are you running? Or did you short something?

Looks like the old chat without the bugs, that works is back.. Thanks Don.