Flyinfool

I can do video.......

Or sleeping in the grass.......

Has Big Tom been doing burnouts with your bike to delete all of the tread?

A bad battery "usually" will not cause it to die while the RPMs are up. The Stator can put out enough power to run the bike. "Usually" if it dies while riding and the battery is then dead it is a charging system issue. Notice I said "usually", there are scenarios where a bad battery can put enough of a load on the system that the stator can not keep up.

And any lead acid battery is damaged by letting it go flat and then sitting for a while. The battery may have been flat at the dealer while it sat at the dealer for 2 years. You might want to mention that to them, they might have killed it for you. You may want to check the bike to see if something is drawing power when it is parked. I do not have a tender and Mine still starts after sitting out in a cold Wisconsin winter. My last Yuasa battery lasted 6 years.

Well yes there is a lot of info on this site, most of it is even good info. "Interesting" is one of the nicest things I have heard anyone say about this bunch of characters..... Welcome to the loony farm, where you can enter but you can never leave.....

Good luck. I did the LEDs in the reflector and reinstalled the reflector with hot melt glue, figuring that it waould be easy to remove some day if I ever had to. apparently the hot melt glu did not like winter. Riding in to work the first time it got below 20°F, it was gone when I got to work. Got a new one from ebay for a good price that had some scratches, I was able to buff out the scratches so it looked like new. Then I proceeded to drop it on the floor and break it in half. :bang head: I glued the two halves back together using PVC cement, did some buffing on the seam, you now have to look to find the crack. They are a lot less expensive if you find one missing 1 or both of the logos, I no longer have a Venture logo on the reflector.

SeaFoam in the oil will help clean it out. follow instructions on the can.

Yup, check steering bearings. Install brace from Condor. Tire pressure. shock pressure, front and rear

Well so much for short order. It took 6 hours to git her done. Had to rewire every bit of the trailer. Nothing was salvageable. Then spent a couple more hours trouble shooting. wore all of the hair off one side of my head :think: :think: :think: :think: :think: :think: :think: But finally figured it out. I just hope he makes it to Galina OK in the dark having never pulled a trailer before. He is going thru a lot of deer country. He should be there in about another 1.5 hours 11:30 PM local time. I did give him an escort for the first 20 miles out of town to be sure all was well. My 1st gen did not like when I backed off to follow to see how it was tracking. It looked to have just a hint of a fishtail at around 65MPH.

It sure will look good. But on those warm days it lets you have a lot of extra heat. I notice a huge difference between the vents open and closed.

It don't matter what I'm in, Chicago is scarey. Tell wife she is not alone.

It appears to be. Thanks A new version?

Yup, and everyone is headed to the IR but us........

I think that was aimed at a different thread. Those ball studs can be used to repair missing mounting points on the side panels of a 1st gen.

Another option is to remove the old clear coat, then paint flat black or color to match bike, then put a brush finish on all of the high spots, the letters and border will then be brushed aluminum on a colored background. then clear the whole thing. that will look nice and the smaller visible aluminum area will be easier to do.

OK, that is not right. Try unplugging the side stand switch and see if that makes any difference in either the dash display or whether the bike will run when you put it in gear. Then connect all 3 pins of the switch connector together on the bike side of the connector and again see if that makes a difference in either the display or running.

I think the roads in that other lace are dead straight and 5000 miles between gas stops. I've heard that it gets pretty warm there also.

The bike should start normally with the stand up or down. The question is does the bike continue to run after you put it in gear and with the side stand is still down?

Would have to frajicate some kind of a mount for the lights. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-magnetic-towing-light-kit-69626.html I don't think the magnets are strong enough to get a good hold on the fiberglass. But that could have possibilities.

Well this one has a round 6 pin connector. One of the 6 pins is not used. Who knows what a PO did. The easy options; 1. We can wire the bike with the mating 6 pin connector. (if any local stores have it in stock) 2. We can rewire the trailer to a 4 wire configuration to match your bike. (this might be fastest option) 3. We can put a flat 5 on both the bike and trailer. The harder option; Rewire everything to whatever other configuration you really want. There is a 4 wire to 6 wire adapter available that will get it close to working right. From what it looks like to me is that it will end up with the amber turn signals on the trailer acting the same as the Brake/turn lights of a 4 wire trailer, and the red lights on the trailer would be running and brake lights. There would be one extra wire to connect on the bike side to pick up the pure brake signal. Tis would at least get him thru the IR and back home to wire everything to his preference.

Well this one has a round 6 pin connector. One of the 6 pins is not used. Who knows what a PO did.

I'll make him take pics when he pics it up Sunday.......

Just one. My '88 is so rare, many on this site insist it does not even exist.

Oh Oh