Du-Rron

I think everybody runs a 130 on the front and likes it very well. I do.

The OEM Fuel pump is marked. If yours is not, with the pump held facing you with the tubes in the top quadrant position, the INLET will be on the right.

Here is what NASA thinks of them... Click below. Click Here to see what NASA standards are on Solder Sleeves

I believe the tech manual is right here in the 3rd gen section.

Where is the WTF emoji

As of 9-14-2020

Would like to find an Extra Wide boot or a EEEE at least.... Sadly...none made that I know of.

Well...if you dont want to replace the points, and OEM is not a requirement like he wanted above, I prefer the Facet 40178

Points are about $25.00 From Partzilla a Yamaha Fuel Pump is about $250.00

You know about just replacing the points on the factory fuel pump ...right?

No, I believe that is the fuel pump connector. I think the one you want is behind the center panel, next to the "left" panel you just removed.

And notice...it is a 2020, not one of the 2018's that are still sitting around new on dealers floors.

The idle is not adjustable. If you get no codes, nothing is wrong. The Service Manual is available on here.

The oil check bold is the phillips-hexhead screw.

I would do the stethescope thing as well. I would also crack open the oil check-bolt (oil-gallery bolt) which easy and only takes seconds to make sure you are getting oil to the top end.

Here is the info, WITH pictures! https://www.venturerider.org/history/index.php

Ya know you have to remove the mufflers. The nut size is 27mm. Dont hand the wheels from the bearings and then beat on them as your pounding translates to side load shock on the bearings. Wheel must be lightly on the ground and you can pull axle out with a wrench. Be sure to lightly grease the axle upon reinstall. Here is a video

Try replacing the points first. If you have to go electronic, Facet 40178

No, that is not how the manual says to check the cruise control system. The throttle drive/vacuum pump on a RSV is checked by the following method. The manual is available on here (this site) and there is a good auto-check routine available in the book to check the entire cruise system, switches and all. The one thing the auto-check method will not tell you is if the vacuum tube from the pump to the actuator is bad. That one you have to inspect yourself.

The wire has two "Mickey Mouse Ears" that protrude inside the clutch basket. The wire is threaded through a trough scribed into the clutch hub for flush fit. Don't break the wire as you will then find it difficult to remove. Poke the mickey mouse ears through the clutch hub towards the outside. Using a screwdriver, wood dowel, brass punch, whatever ya got, push the clutch steel towards the center of the engine to help relieve spring pressure against the wire and remove the wire. Yes, there is one more spring you will be pushing against and it is shown as part number 16 in the top diagram and part 1 in the bottom one. Then you will remove the parts shown in the bottom diagram. KEEP THEM in case you want to reinstall them later and remember, don't screw up the wire. And, ya know the manual is available on this site as well.

That would be a question for Barnett. Just slap them in and they should be fine. They are generic and fit many bikes. If they put the indents on them they would have other customers asking what they were for. If you are using the original clutch basket and hub, they only fit real well one way, which is the same way they came apart. Pay attention as to how they came apart. Get some new clutch hub bolts while you are at it.

Happy Belated Birthday!!!!

There is a lot of GOOD stuff in there but... I really like that shot.

The most important thing is FIT of the helmet. All other standards dont matter if it dont fit. Concentrate on FIT first, then decide on price/value purchase based upon standards. When I wear a helmet it is DOT/ECE never just DOT. By the time I get another helmet the FIM standard will be out and I will get a DOT/FIM standard helmet based upon fit and price. By the year 2027 comes around another "standard" will probably pop up that we will need. Instead of questioning Standards, jut get a helmet you like, fits well, and is within your budget. Then ALL will be ok.