BlueSky

Did you google just the part number? Is so, several parts houses claim they can deliver but some take quite a while.

The original spark plug caps are around 10,000 ohms and the spark plug wires are copper core and should be close to zero ohms. If you haven't done so, unscrew the caps and look at the copper core wire. the joint is not water tight and moisture gets into the joint and the copper core corrodes and turns green. If you cut off a half inch or more wire, you can most likely get to clean copper wire. Probably does the same at the coils? Replacement NGK spark plug caps are 5,000 ohms.

Hey, I never noticed the power port!! And now that I've found it, I don't see the subject switch?

My thinking was to use synthetic on my air cooled Kawa since the oil may get hotter than in the water cooled Ventures. I think all oils are tested with the NOAC test at 450 degrees F so conventional may take as much temperature as syn these days. Don't know for sure either way? Probably will use dino on the Ventures in the future.

This Texas Doctor claims that he uses a very effective treatment for Covid 19. He says that Taiwan a country of 25 million has used a similar treatment and they have only had 8 deaths. Japan also uses a similar treatment and they have had about 1,000 deaths in a population of 125 million. The video is long but he gets to the treatment way before the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDSDdwN2Xcg

On the Kawasaki forum, someone suggested that the difference I notice on how quickly the oil pressure light goes out when hot might be due to the Mobil 1 being old versus the fresh Supertech motorcycle oil. Could be the reason. The Mobil 1 had about 2k miles on it but had been in the bike for quite some time.

The seal around the caliper piston keeps the fluid sealed so that the fluid will push the piston/brake pad into the rotor. When the brake pedal is released, a spring in the master cylinder pulls the MC cylinder back and a hole is uncovered that allows the pressure in the line to be released back to the MC. Without any pressure on the caliper piston, the caliper/brake pad will move a tiny bit back from the rotor due to irregularities in the rotor pushing it back. If the caliper is not releasing it's grip on the rotor, the caliper piston is sticking or the pressure is not being released back to the MC.

My air compressor is a 30 gallon 150 psig upright Kobalt unit which is probably not enough for continuous use but I won't be using it all that much. And it is usually very humid here on the coast of NC. I've been planning to add a water trap on the compressor discharge that might help a bit. Yeah, if I keep buying tools, I may have to kick my wife's car out of the garage!!!

Anybody on here who owns a Harbor Freight sand blaster? I'm getting the urge to buy one for a couple of projects.

An update on the Walmart motorcycle oil. I used the Supertech synthetic oil and the only diffference I've noticed is that the oil light goes out quicker when starting it after it gets up to temperature. It would take 3 to 4 seconds for the oil light to go out with Mobil 1 synthetic 10w40. Now with Supertech synthetic 10w40 the light goes out in about a second on hot startups. I don't know what that means, whether the oil is thicker or thinner or what, just the only difference I've noticed.

Oh Man, talk about bad luck! Stuff like that seems to always happen to something you just bought.

I'm joking of course, but a 21 yr old guy posted a video of himself doing 199mph on his Dodge Challenger Hellcat on the highway in the Raleigh area and when it was brought to the attention of the highway patrol, they arrested him!

Now the Nazi governor will send her SS to arrest you with this proof you violated her royal orders!

It would be a pleasure to ride with yah if I was closer!

Time for a rebuild I think.

I think the risk of getting the virus is higher than other risks to you but you know your situation better than I. I'm not traveling because I don't want to stay in a motel that many others may have stayed in maybe spreading the virus. Camping is not that appealing at my age.

Put a can of seafoam or gumout with PEA in the gas for a starter. There is a "shotgun" method to partially clean the carbs that some use. Do a search for details.

I think a hand held mity-vac would be a good tool choice to remove the excess oil. I bought one a while back and I use it to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir when I flush the brakes. It has been very handy in bleeding the brakes too on my autos and bikes. I luvvs that tool!

Seems to me that you would be better off by leaving the existing weights on the tire and putting in maybe less beads to make up any imbalance that was left?

When the recession hit in 2008, I bought a used Remington 1100 semi-auto 12 gauge at a gun show for home defense. I removed the plug to increase it's capacity and it sits in a handy position in my house. I don't shoot that much and prefer to let the gun load itself. I don't want to have to think about pumping the next load if some buttholes are trying to break in. I don't want to have to use the AR15 due to its penetrating power. I might knock off a few neighbors as well as the intended. P226 for backup.

I have bought a handgun from budsgunshop.com. Might check with them.

I'm pretty sure that thicker oil will reduce the whine because my RSV doesn't whine as much at first when the oil is cold and thicker. It then gets louder as it heats up. I don't know if the thicker oil is better or worse for the engine? I think the only sure way to get rid of the whine is to trade it for a Goldwing! And I'm too cheap for that!

I rode the RSV to the inspection station and then out and about putting about 50 miles on it. It's running well. The ride would be more pleasant without the gear whine/chirp but overall it's a great bike I think.

I checked the RSV's air filters yesterday. I wasn't even sure where they were and didn't know there were two of them. If I counted correctly, there are 26 screws or bolts that have to be removed or loosened in the case of the air inlet clamps, two rubber grommets, and one push pin to deal with. But, now I know how to remove them. I also changed the rear gears lube and adjusted the back rest. This occurred after getting the rear brake to work and flushing the front brakes. Time to ride it to the inspection station in order to get a new license plate sticker. Still haven't changed the coolant. The manual tells you to remove lots of stuff to get to the engine plugs. I just want to drain the radiator and refill. I see the drain plug but how much stuff do I have to remove to get to the fill cap? The manual just states to use ethylene glycol coolant. Is there a particular coolant that is needed? Can I use the long life or the stuff that needs changing every two years? Thanks!

Hey Poppa Phil, How's that beautiful 2003 RSV running?