ffjoe
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Everything posted by ffjoe
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12500 miles is pretty much the end of my tires life. I would replace it before I left rather than worry about it the whole time. Sounds like a great trip! Good luck.
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Once again I find the manual lacking enough info for a lowly so-so mechanic such as myself to get a job done without help. Is there anywhere on this forum that has a good description and hopefully pictures that can take me through the dismantaling process of the front cowling so I can get to the steering head bearings which I need to change. The quick fix of tightening the steering nut was not good enough to remove looseness. Bought roller bearings from Skydoc for the job. Any help would be appreciated.
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Cylinders 1 & 3 intakes and 2 exhaust shims were at thier limit so I replaced them. I also did it at 26,000 miles and replaced some. You can only purchase shims in .005 increments unlike what you find in the bike from the factory. Better loose than tight. At least with valve clearances.
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I see he made the same observation as me, the cam lobes won't face away from each other at TDC. I just found that curious and wanted to make sure I didn't have an issue. Thanks.
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I'm doing my 52,000 mile valve adjustment. My dilema is this. The manual states that when #1 cylinder is at top dead center you will see the timing mark through the viewing hole and the cam lobes will be facing away from each other. Mine lean in towards each other. When turning the engine 180 degrees and so forth it all works out that when you hit #3 cylinder you see the other single timing mark so I guess I'm doing it right. I noticed this last time nd chalked it up to a mispraint in the manual. Anyone else experienced this?
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It took me an hour but I finally realized I had the parts that move when you turn the key put in wrong. All in all still a pain to hold together with spings and all for assembly.
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Actually I was wondering how the springs fit into the cap.
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thanks for the help. Now to find my magnet on a stick,
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Has anyone had their gas cap come apart? I lost a screw most likely in the tank that I,ll have to get out . The other was still there but really loose. anyway the springs in it came out and I wanted to know if anybody knew where they went.
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I agree that it's electrical. Between 1st and 2nd you have neutral. Maybe a short there in the switch. Does it start in neutral, if it does slowly shift up and down to see if it stalls. -
I bought a piece of aluminum bar 1" x 1/8 maybe, i'm not home to look at it right now. I bent it 90 degrees, drilled holes to match helmet holder holes and light bar hole so that it was sticking out where I wanted it. Did the same for the other side. I then filed it down, rounding the edges to make it a more custom fit, then polished the aluminum to make it all pretty.
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Sooo, today I removed the rear wheel again and sure enough, the drive shaft didn't mate, it was off to the side. But when I tried to get it in place it just wouldn't mesh. It was hanging downward and when I moved it, it just fell into the same place again. Long story short, I put it in gear idling and kept trying until I hit it just right. What a pain in the butt. Well it's back together and everything works. I've got a little less hair now but oh well.
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That would make sense. At least I won't have to read the manual to get it apart this time since I just did it. Huh, that doesn't make me feel any better! I'll let you know tommorow how it turns out.
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Thanks, I'm going to pull it all apart again tommorow. Thought everything slid in okay after I greased the splines. Maybe not. Correction,diffenitely not.
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What happened? I took off my wheels and had new tires mounted. Got it all back together, backed into the street, put it in first, but when I let the clutch out it bound up like when you forget to release the parking brake on your car. With the clutch in, or in neutral, it moves freely. I've done this before and never had any trouble. Any ideas?
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First, thanks to all. Although it still cranks out pretty good, I don't seem to have the power I remember when I bought it with about 5000 miles on it. On a trip to Florida, getting from 70 to 110 mph or better was quite quick without a downshift. Now it seems to be slower. I have 37500 mi. on it, did the valve adjustment around 28000, synched the carbs awhile ago, with some improvement. My gas mileage is pretty much the same about 42 mpg at 70 mph. I read here about a bad coil and v7goose's findings that maybe it's the cap. Anyway I figure the caps easy and cheap so I would start there with fresh plugs. I really, really hate to have it down for a couple of days during riding season as I'm sure you all do.
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I tried to buy new NGK caps for my 2004 venture but the parts store could't match the numbers off of OEM's. Does anyone have the NGK numbers or know how to get them?
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Thanks for the response. I also refer to left-right from seated position. It was a while since I posted the problem to when I got to ride again but when I did the other day I wasn't getting the noise anymore. My clutch fluid is getting darker than the brake fluid so I'll change that out and hope it takes care of that.
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I've got 34000 miles on my 2004 midnight and I just noticed a new noise coming from the left side of the engine when at idle. Almost like a scraping or squeaking a few times a second but lessens when the clutch is pulled in or in neutral. Could it be the clutch wearing out or maybe just needs adjustment? When switching from neutral into first it grabs a little but always has. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Thanks to all for the info and advice. This is truly a great site for help from a wide range of experience.
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I want to hook up a dwell-tach meter that I have from the old days when you could work on a car to my 2nd gen to set the idle speed. There's two wires on it and I think one went to ground and the other to the coil. Anyone know where to hook up to get a reading for tach?
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Well, I got my new windshield last week from F4 with the goldwing vent. Since then I've ridden when it was around 50 degrees and over 80 degrees, {a day apart so I didn't have to wait}. I was happy with the protection the 4 inch wider shield provided and it seemed I could hear the stereo better at highway speeds. When you open the vent you get a good rush of air at chest level. You can adjust the opening to whatever you like. I had them mount the vent 3 1/4 inch above the slot in the bottom of shield {you have to have the chrome strip off to see this} and it ended up being about 1/2 inch above the dash so you could probably lower it more if you wanted. This was on a standard OEM height shield. Nice not to see a fog when the sun shines.
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Call them and ask, they seemed willing to oblige and make a sell.
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Unless I misunderstood, the vent will be installed at the factory. Like Clearview, it's about $59. Total will be around $300 plus shipping. They ask you where you want it placed, so I figure just to clear the dash. I used Plastx to take some scratches out of my factory shield and it left it foggy. Plus on a trip in Florida, I got what looked like some kind of water or salt that seemed to be inside of the shield and couldn't be removed.
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I talked to the owner, John, at F4 about getting a new windshield on my RSV. I told him I wanted a vent and he said the standard answer is no, but since he's the owner maybe. Well, he checked out the shield and said he could get the Goldwing vent installed. I know there was discussion on this before, the lack of a vent was a deciding point for many. I'ts the same height as stock but 2 in. wider per side. The Lexan sounds like a superior product and for $30 more than comparable Clearview shield, I think I'll go for it.