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rbjohnsn

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Everything posted by rbjohnsn

  1. I have looked high and low for the condenser. It is showen in the sechematic and wiring drawings but NO ware on it's phycial location. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  2. shortly after my purchase of the RSV 2005 I complained to the dealer about the discrepency of the speed. Thier comment was it was set high to ward off any law suites for possible tickets. Ya right! In any event there is no way to change it with changing the firmware in the computer module. The mileage though is right one the money.
  3. You still need air flow. I would think a bead the size of the ID will plug up the works!
  4. Take and checkout this location: http://www.coastpneumatics.com/products/restrictors/inline.php#specs
  5. Had two stacks facing upward on an old pickup. Spark plug in each. Wanted to hear the backfire, but forgot we were under some trees while crusing. The trees were set on fire. Decided to terminate the plugs. Those were the good old days.
  6. You are correct. Sorry, I guess I am just getting to old anymore. I stand corrected.
  7. J&M just came out with a slim speaker. Worked great for fitting inside the helmet, poor frequency response though. NEVER cut anything on the helemt. You will loose the safety aspect should you crash and burn.
  8. Optimal Conditions in the 11 meter band! LOL, maybe 5 miles. Find a high point, right weather conditions (skip) and you could make 1000 mile plus or minus 995 mile. The 11 meter band is the worst for RF communications. That is why the FCC gave it to use. The whole idea of the SWR (Standing Wave Ratio) is to match the impedence of the radio to the attenna, which is an ideal 50 ohms. The longer the coax cable more insertion losses. Each connector has an insertion loss associated with the style of the connector. An SWR of 3-1 is great, 2-1 Ok, 1-1 bad. A 1-1 SWR means all the power being sent to the attenna is also being reflected back to the source. When this occurs there is nothing being trasmitted, it's all returning to the transmitter. Hope this helps.
  9. Two lengths clear vinal tubing that fit the vacum ports. Two beebes that fit into the tubing. A couple of air restrictors to act as a filter on the vacum, and gravity. Coil each tubing into about a 4" diamator so both are identical size. Each tube of vinal has one beeb. Hang the two coils of vinal such the beebes fall to the bottom while hanging from the handle bar. One coil is static and the beeb settles to the bottom of the coil due to gravity. The other coils beeb resides between each air restricter. With both coils hanging, say from the handle bar, each beeb will rest at the bottom of the each coil. Attach the second vinal tubing to each vacum port on cylinders 1 & 2. Run the engine and balance the two carbs so the static beeb and the beeb which has each cylinder vacum sucking are equal at the bottom of the coils. Repeat again on cylinders 3 & 4. Now match the two bank of cylinders by conneting the vacum lines to vacum ports of cylinders 2 & 3. I found this peace of test equipment more acurate then a 4 port stick. If interested I can provide a picture of the hardware (vinal tubing).
  10. You would need to use an off switch plus a 10amp fuse to override the thermo switch. By adding the on / off switch inline with a 10 amp fuse to chassy ground would function as the thermo switch in the off position. Placing it on would activate the fan. The fan's ground line is fused at 10 amps. If you don't use a fuse then the exisiting fuse would be out of the circuit.
  11. Thats true. It saves fuel. A fan draws ~15hp. In the new vehicles putting card board over the radiator to make the engine get hot, wouldn't apply, as with cars that had the old conventional fans which ran all the time. You could disconnect the fan to get the same effect.
  12. Bummer, I would be more worried about being seen while on the bike then when it's parked. Your correct though, there is much reflection when shining a light at them. Good old PA.I remember those inspections as a kid. My dad was an auto mechnic. There all most as bad as England, in the UK. If a screw driver can punched threw the floorboard, there is another 20lbs of steel welded in. I had an old 1960 Morris Woody in 1988. Couldn't tell how many times if failed for rust. LOL
  13. rbjohnsn

    My ride

    Two bikes. 05 RS Venture open road 90 Ultra Classic for town
  14. rbjohnsn

    DSC00529

    From the album: My ride

  15. rbjohnsn

    DSC00527

    From the album: My ride

  16. That's the way to heat up the coolant in a car, as the fan runs all the time. Not so on the bike. It only comes on a a certain tempture. Sitting still on the bike would have the same effect on a car with the card board in front of the radiator.
  17. I might add make sure there is plenty strain relief, and use mulity stranded wire because of the flexing. Years of aircraft wiring tought me a few things. Also wash your bike often. When drying it you find things loose or falling off, etc..
  18. I've had the problem trying to achive the proper torque. On the Venture, the dash panel presents the problem when placing a socket on the nut. There is no room to add the torque wrench. I had the problem of a low speed shimmy. Even with the manufactors torque on the stem bearings of 2.2 ft lb. I ended up ajusting the lower ring nut such that there was no bounce at the end of right, and left, turn fork position. I even took the bike back to the dealer and complained about the problem. They said it was fine. Since I reajusted it as discribed above no more shimmy.
  19. rbjohnsn

    DSC00531

    From the album: My ride

  20. rbjohnsn

    DSC00528

    From the album: My ride

  21. rbjohnsn

    DSC00526

    From the album: My ride

  22. rbjohnsn

    DSC00521

    From the album: My ride

  23. rbjohnsn

    DSC00523

    From the album: My ride

  24. rbjohnsn

    DSC00524

    From the album: My ride

  25. rbjohnsn

    DSC00518

    From the album: My ride

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