rbjohnsn
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Everything posted by rbjohnsn
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From the album: My ride
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From the album: My ride
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This link has led side markers that look like the orignal marker reflectors. One of my first changes in lighting. You would never know the difference until truning on the ignition switch. http://www.electricalconnection.com/
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Brian, such a trusting sole. The high temp light does work, but it's not automatic when starting the engine as are the other functions. You need to activate the kill switch, be in netural, or have the clutch disengaged while trying to start the engine at which time the RED temp light activates. Frankly there is a ghost. When first applying current through the electonic fan filter the fan was motionless. After removing some electrial tape wrapped around the two wires which comes from the thermo switch, located in the radiator, the fan worked, and no longer could I make it fail. BUT, that was with the harness exposed and out in the open. To make sure everything will function after putting things back into place it can only be comfirmed to function is by shorting the two pins at the thermo switch. I don't mean to such a pain but I've worked as a tech and engineer in electronics for 45 years. Never assume! It could be a costly mistake.
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Thanks for the effort. I found it about 7 hours ago, and as you said its on the top leftside of the radiator. Since then I've tried to remove the connector so as to short the two pins and confirm the hole circuit, minus of course the thermo switch, BUT leave it to those small handed people there is know way for my big hand to disconnect the connector without removing the radiator. Even made a special tool to grab the connector only to find out 6 hours later there is a locking clip on the backside from my view. Had to use a dental mirror to detect it. There just is know way to compress the clip and push back the connector off while the radiator is installed for me. I wonder what the flat rate is on testing the cooling system! LOL. Your also correct on the ERROR's within the drawing. Normaly I can follow a schematic. I spent most of my life in electronics. The Japanise electrial schematics / drawings suck. The mechinal on the other hand are great for the most part. I'll just half to run the engine, till it gets hot and see what happens with the fan.
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Why worry! I live in the deserted. Try being stuck in traffic when it is 120 deg. California has a filter law allowing an air cooled engine bike to split the traffic, but if is water cooled, the split traffic law does not apply. Arizona on the other hand does not have that law, as many states. Its nice the Venture has water cooled engine. The fan will help keep the engine from destoying it's self under those condictions.
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Back in the days when we fix things down to the compont level, not the black box level, one would use a burnshing tool to clean relay, points, etc. etc. Files will work, but remove more than just the corroson; it also removes alot of the material as well greatly shorting the life span of the componet.
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There are two screws on the backside of the clam shell. Losen the bottom first to rotate enough to miss the mirror bracket, and then remove both screws.
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It's open to the enviorment. Thats the problem with the switch. So it is easy to squirt a cleaner into it. Just need to open up the clam shell and expose the switch.
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When I took delivery of my NEW 2005 the passenger button knob was missing. The dealer counld only get the whole switch assembly. That sucks for just a 10 cent item. As it was under warrenty the service manger wanted to know how long it took me to replace the unit. I wanted to just canabilize the knob. Couldn't do it, had to replace it. Took ~an hour to figure out how to get it out and replaced.
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Most likely the switch contacts are dirty. A dealer would replace the switch. I on the other hand removed mine and shot some BowShield, even WD40, would do the job, into the switch. After wondering if anyone heard me when pushing the PTT switch I took a ma meter, a iN914 signal diode, and a 12 inch length of wire, placing the wire near the antenna. This is a crude, cheap, field strength meter. When ever pushing the PTT the ma meter show some current flow.
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The maintance manual says to remove it thermo switch from the radiator, but with everything so congested in that area its hard to see. The diagram is only showed on the electrial drawing and not the mechnical.
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From the album: I like to be heard
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From the album: I like to be heard
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Horns
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Looking for help on the location of the fan thermo switch. There are three listings in the schemtics (#31,#40,#68). I'm not sure where the location of the fan (item # 31) is. From what I can tell looking at a pictorial drawing for the part location I've found #40, which is for the carb heaters, which is behind the Right cheek panel. Number (#68) looks to be for the ideat light and its location is on the thremostat block. Question is where is #31 located. My fan has never comes on. I ride in very hot weather, but never heard the fan operate. I've been able to figure out the fan works plus the filter by connecting 12 volts to the connectors. So far I've not been able to find the third thermostat #31. Is there anyone out there that can help retain my hair. There are so many errors in the drawings it has become a hunt and peck situation. Any help would be greatly appreashated.
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Anyone know of a brake pad expert? The dealer tells me I should have checked my brake pads. The irony of it "I do". I perfer to do most of my own service. I haven't found a mechnic yet that hasn't screwed something up. At 14191 miles the inside pad was bare metal. I found this hard to beleive. I am easy on brakes. The front pads have about 50% left. I feel like the inside rear pad failed. To look at it, it appears at some point there was not enough material to hold the pad to the backing. The outside pad had about 10% left. Of course the dealer tells me I screwed up. I also have a Harley Ultra Classic. The brake pads needed changing at 61000 miles. From reading some of your post the rear pads suck.
