syscrusher

If you're serious about sending me the front fender I can use it because the one I have is cracked where the mount is. I repaired it but it may not hold. If those parts are really annoying you I would also let you send me the fake gas tank cover. Let me know how much it would cost you to send that stuff to Omaha and I'll pay your shipping. Otherwise, as someone else said, you can also sell that stuff for good money but it's your choice. Just let me know. I am not expert but there are wiring diagrams in the 1st gen Tech Library section. There is a module, I think in the gauge console, that the signals and a lot of the operating electricals are processed through. You will likely want to keep it or figure out a way to work around it. The second photo of the bike certainly does look like it's been through an apocalypse. I couldn't see your engine covers very well but if they're too shiny you may want to swap some of yours for mine since mine already have that post-apocalyptic look. It could save you a lot of extra work. Just let me know.

I'm not the guy to ask, I'm just proud of the one I have. The guy who started that thread that I linked may be able to sell you a board and tell you where to get the rest of the parts you need. Until someone finds an automotive sensor with a full spec sheet the ones this project uses are about $15 each. The next most expensive piece is the display, it costs $10. An Arduino Uno clone is $8.50. The other small parts cost under $5. You might be able to get your order in right after you read this.

Blue for me too, but it's nice that red is there because it reminds me that I'm not logged in when everything is red. What could be done to spiff up the blue that seems to be popular?

When you've gotta have a gadget you've gotta have it. It's got no liquid, more accurate, more compact, and kind of fun to build. It's also somewhat extensible with an added sensor and programming. It can accommodate up to six cylinders if you have a Valk, GW, K1600, or the odd CBX1050. I haven't really looked but I'll bet six channel synchronizers are hard to find.

So now which parts were thinking about sending to me? Could you post some photos of those unneeded parts so I can see if they might be anything that I need?

You can find my most recent picture at the end of this thread here. Or here:

It was a nice day in Omaha today so I went for a ride. I got the motorcycle warmed up nicely and then I hooked up my new digital carb sync and got them balanced. The difference between the left side and the right side was greater than the difference between cylinders on either side. It seems to run smoother, maybe even more responsive and quicker. With this digital device it is possible to get the carbs very balanced. Take a look at the attached photo. There was only one surprise really and that was when I removed each vacuum cap the motor stumbled on all except for the right side rear cylinder. On that one it didn't seem to matter if it had vacuum or not at least as far as how the motor ran. Does that indicate anything I should look at?

I'm not sore I just thought I should check back in on the thread and decided to be funny......

I do the best I can with what I have. Thanks!

Well it isn't about me anymore. My thread's been hijacked. Thanks for the tips anyway and I'll try the "Remember Me" check box. Remember me, the guy who started the thread? If I stay on the site there's no problems but I usually do a little here, open another tab and do a little there, so on, and so on.......

Actually the story was that it had been a hot spot where Hollywood stars would come to get away from it all. The old photos make it look like it was beautiful. I've been there, you can get some idea of things from the nice pool or lake with the island in the center and the neatly planted rows of palms that demarcate the parking areas. It is still in use by someone but no one came out of any of the buildings when I was there but signs of life are fresh. Right behind the resort buildings there is a shallow dry salt or alkali lake bed. http://static.squarespace.com/static/53e69ebce4b0c8e23ff69a07/53f35fbde4b051d4cb599177/53f2819ee4b0ed76901c4354/1408411141313/zzyzx_20091030_04pw.jpg

It's the name of a Niel Young song from the Trans album. Kind of Niel's (initial) exploration of digital sound processing. Album also has the immortal song "T-bone" which is literally 9 1/2 minutes of "Got mashed potatoes, Got mashed potatoes, Got mashed potatoes, Ain't got no T-bone, Ain't got no T-bone" along with the instrumentals that get pretty good in some parts. I enjoyed the album and identified with the sentiment of the Computer Cowboy tune since I was and maybe still will be making my living as a Software Engineer. Syscrusher (Computer Cowboy) T-bone http://blog-imgs-37-origin.fc2.com/k/e/n/kenzeeybb/neilyoung_trans.jpg

I have basically been off of the forum for a while over the holidays and stuff so I suppose a lot of changes have been made but I keep getting logged out about every half hour? Another change is that if I have more than one window for the group open one window isn't aware that the other is logged on. I used to never log out and the site would just pick where I left off when I would load the web site. I was preparing a post with photos earlier and the site logged me out before I could get the photos uploaded with my post. I looked around the profile setting to see if there was a parameter I could change but didn't find anything. Does anyone have any ideas about this? It's becoming a PITA.

Alright, I finally took the time and put my kit together. It wasn't too bad even with the fairly blunt soldering iron that I used. The sensors must be pretty forgiving since I confused myself about notches and dots and installed the first one correctly first and then decided that I hadn't. I heated the leads and lifted it one side at a time, flipped it around and soldered it back down. I looked it over some more and then realized that it was right the first time and so I reversed the process again. It works perfectly now. I would really suggest that one just make sure the side marked with "K1252" is toward the pads marked with "Vin", "Vout", etc. The notch then lines up with the dot for all that I have seen but it's easy to spot the "K1252". The reason I got confused is that the manufacturing process makes a small dot looking indent on several corners of the sensors and they are easier to see than the notch. Oh well. It was fun finding ways to hold parts steady while they were being soldered but not to difficult overall. I used a crappy 15W Radio Shack special soldering iron but I used very fine solder and kept the tip wiped with a damp cloth. Don't use one of those pistol type soldering irons because they make too much heat. You don't need much heat. Tom's notes on assembly are spot-on. The only thing I would add is that the other side of the sensor, the leads that are not "Vin", etc., are unused. My advice is to get a small glob of solder on the tip of your iron, use a finger to hold the sensor positioned correctly on the pads and then just heat one of the unused leads until some solder transfers onto it's lead and pad. This won't make an acceptable joint but it will tack the sensor in place so it doesn't move around when you solder the other pads. Take the heat away and start soldering the rest of the pads correctly, adding solder as you heat the pads. Then go back and do the first one the right way too. Have some de-soldering braid handy in case you glob too much on somewhere. When I was done with fabbing it I loaded the Arduino drivers on my PC and then transfered Tom's binary to it. For a while I thought I had messed things up because I didn't see any characters on the display. I did some testing of just the Arduino to make sure it worked and it did. I then realized that the display was over-driven and so I then adjusted the pot and numbers came into focus. I must have soldered properly because the sensors all read the same value. I'm not completely sure which number corresponds to which sensor yet but it'll be easy enough to sort out. Here's some photos of mine and a few of the steps in assembly. You'll see one with a tweezer holding some connectors and another with the tweezer holding down one end of the LED display and my finger on the other end getting ready to tack solder the first few pins. It'll be warm this weekend and I intend to use this then.

I used to do this but then started to believe the mechanical crimp must somehow be better since I saw that so often. Not soldering also satisfied my desire to be a little lazy about it but I may have to revisit that.

So do you rub it with a flat sheet of foil or crunch it into more of a ball? The results do seem incredible. Does that work on aluminum?

Ratcheting crimpers are great but that one is a little pricey...... You'll get a much better looking and reliable connection using a ratcheting crimper than those simple "do-it-all" plier type crimpers. I've pierced the insulation sometimes and sometimes ended up getting a loose one with the pliers. The ratcheting one won't let you do those things and it will last as long as you need it to, unless maybe you're in business re-wiring cars and bikes, which it didn't sound like you were. As I said the link you gave has a pricey crimper but I bought this one from Harbor Freight for $15 and it works great: Ratcheting Crimper

Thanks, That didn't work for me the first time but I opened a different window and tried it - much better now.

I'm not looking at it with beer goggles but I do have the flu pretty bad.

I can't see that but there's some words jumbled together in places. Is that a new feature of the site or a browser feature you're referring to?

I chose small fonts in my profile and I can read them from the backyard. It really kind of makes the site unusable when I can only see a tiny part of things with the really large characters. On my screen the word "things" stretches to a full inch?

It had 29K miles, paint not perfect, forks leaking, and some ugly engine covers. I overpaid but not so much really and it's gradually becoming a much better machine. Of course that means that I am spending even more money and time on it...........

I'm sorry to hear that he's passed on. It wasn't easy for me when my father died as well. Keep on the sunny side.........

I bought these but I currently use one of them and one normal 1157. The problem is that they just don't get much brighter when the brake circuit is engaged. I don't want someone rear ending me because they didn't realize I had hit the brakes. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my 1993 I didn't use the spacer from the Progressive set because it wasn't much different from the set that was in the forks. If your question is about what order to install the stack take a look at the fork seal replacement thread in the 1st Gen Tech Library. Just lift the bike from the start and use 13.5 oz of fork oil in each tube.