Torpedo

Here is the final word on handle bars: I would would like to see the ZX-11 Adventure please.

UPDATE: I need to rebuild the carbs; just no getting around it. 1. Where is the cheapest place to buy rebuild kits? 2. Where is the cheapest place to buy slide diaphragms? 3. If I get just the rubber diaphragms off e-bay (as opposed to complete slide assemblies), how do I get the new rubbers on the old slides? I need to order these parts ASAP. Thanks for your continued support. Brett

I tried to make my own block-off plates, now all of the light is leaking out of my forks

I was once turned away from CA DMV because a bike I purchased in OR did not have a 'Federal Emissions Sticker.' No worries, there was an image of the label in the owner's manual so I scanned it, printed it on sticky paper, got my CA docs. Oh yeah, one more thing: Be sure both the frame number and engine number are visible when you show up at DMV. I got an ST1300 from FL and it took two hours, a supervisor, and a Google search before they could verify my VIN. On the ST, if you strip it naked, hold it up-side-down, and use a hand-held mirror with a flashlight, it is easy to read the VIN, otherwise it is a bit of a chore. Brett

09/88 JYA1UNC09KA005210 100,457 miles as of 01/15

Flyinfool - thank you for that, you saved me from making a huge mess. I need to settle on a riding position before I move the electrics. I'm told to expect 2" to 4" of sand over hard-pack so I am leaning towards "upright." Any opinions?

When I said 'value,' I did not mean monetary. For instance, many of you have children. Some of you may 'value' your children but they have no monetary value. Like children, these parts hold no value for me, monetary or otherwise. It is always sad when a motorcycle dies, even from old age of natural causes. This bike was registered for 21 years, racked-up over 100,000 miles (so fast, it spun the speedo needle right off the shaft at 100,457), shows no 'crash' damage, and was obviously loved. That it can now breathe new life into those bikes still carrying our banner on the open road is a blessing. I am into this project for very little money even counting the $12 spent here. Remember, this thing did not run two days ago, hadn't run in at least four years; it was you guys who pointed me towards the clutch switch, it was you guys who got it running for me. Also, I have already recouped $0.11 (found a penny in the trunk and a dime on the engine cases). I'm not looking to 'sell' these parts; if you can use them, you can have them. I would post a parts list in Pay It Forward but I am in no position to be paying shipping for y'all. I can't post in Classifieds because I have poor computer skills. Let's instead talk parts through PM and talk here instead about what else can be removed. For instance, those little doohickies at the bottom of the fork legs; can I remove them or will they leak fork oil? I'm thinkin' they would make cool housings for black-out running lights. And just for the record, I do not believe the apocalypse is coming anytime soon. Brett

How did I miss the tank cover? My ESP needs a tune up. Good call on the fender, it is one of the least-worst pieces. PM sent. I think I found the module of which you speak, marked 'HAZARD.' I want to thank you for that, exactly the information I was looking for when I started this thread. As mentioned previously, I need for this to be a runner, at least through September. It doesn't have to run far, just fast. If you have an Essential part on your bike that is worn or damaged, I would be happy to inspect/measure/photograph my counter-part and, if you find it superior to yours, swap. For example, I understand rear brake rotors are hard to come by and since "brake" is the nemesis of "fast," I would gladly swap a fat, true rotor for a skinny, warped rotor. (Note: I have yet to measure the rotors, they may suck, this is just an example). I'll get some detail shots of covers, guards, and whatnot so you can determine if they are 'better' than yours. Brett

Nearly every piece of plastic is damaged, the right side cover is missing. If someone were desperate, I could maybe repair whichever piece they need but it would still be needing paint. You're welcome to any of the vents I do have.

I've never seen an apocacycle in person either but I've seen pictures and can grasp the gist. Progress so far: And spare parts: The tip-over sensor messed me up for a minute until I discovered that, like the clutch lock-out switch, I can simply unplug it and throw it away. The only thing I removed that caused a not-run condition was some Hazard Lighting Module; plugged that back in and all's well. How much wire is on this thing anyway? Removing the now-dead wires and then rerouting the 'good' wires is the next, tedious step. Anyway, pretty happy with the progress so far (it still runs).

Syscrushr - I was going to send you the tires as I know from experience how tires wear from round to rectangular when riding the endless straights in the middle of the country but I see from your map you get to the twisty parts so instead I am sending the rear chrome/plastic piece, the RH mirror, and the front fender. Enjoy. Flyinfool - I am building an apocacycle (yeah, that's a word). Here is the foundation:

BlueSky, thanks, I'll post in Classified. Eck, thanks for fixing my mistakes. I too know very little about the 1st gen bikes (like which gen they come from). Brett

I picked up an '89 today and, thanks to the information found on these boards, got it running (first time in four years, I'm told). I have a broken clutch switch. With the wires shorted, it fired right up. I rode it around the block with no ill effects so obviously I don't need a clutch switch to make the bike run. My question is: What else can I ditch, bypass, or remove and have the bike still run? For instance, when I remove the gauge cluster, will there be some mysterious safety lock-out system that will shut me down? My goal is to get down to the absolute bare essentials and still be able to ride the thing. Wait, two questions. Is there anything on this bike that has any value or can components go straight into the recycle bin? Thanks, Brett